Time sensitive question about cv axles, any help appreciated

[rockola1971]

It's been parked since the shaking started. Wife and kids are walking to school until I get it done

If the ujoints are original they will have to be heated with a torch to get removed. OEM used nylon locking "ring". Aftermarkets are just a metal circlip removal which is quick and dirty. Mark orientation driveshaft/differential yoke to yoke so it gets returned to same clocking position.

If you posted up your general area or atleast state you would have a better chance of someone coming over to help you. Havent met anyone here but have many times had posters calling me at 8pm or so (invited to) to get advice or directions on troubleshooting. Not out of the ordinary here at all for many of us. Very possible a member here lives near you.

 

[MassHoe04]

The one in the photo sure looks to be original.

You can see the plastic nibs on the ears of the yoke. That is where the plastic used to lock in the U joint comes out when injected into the part.
If joints were ever replaced, the plastic nibs would be gone and the holes there would be empty because you need to torch out the plastic to remove the OE U joint from the yoke.

Its kind of fun, if you ever have to do it...
Heat the ears and around the cap of the U joint with a torch.

You will see the plastic begin to expand.
It looks like one of those snake things we would light off in the driveway on the 4th of July...



Keep heating the ears of the yoke and end of the U joint until there is no more "snake" coming out of the hole.
When it stops coming out the hole, you have enough plastic out of the lock ring groove inside to remove the joint.

 

[Blackmar401]

If the ujoints are original they will have to be heated with a torch to get removed. OEM used nylon locking "ring". Aftermarkets are just a metal circlip removal which is quick and dirty. Mark orientation driveshaft/differential yoke to yoke so it gets returned to same clocking position.

If you posted up your general area or atleast state you would have a better chance of someone coming over to help you. Havent met anyone here but have many times had posters calling me at 8pm or so (invited to) to get advice or directions on troubleshooting. Not out of the ordinary here at all for many of us. Very possible a member here lives near you.

I have a fullsize oxy acetylene setup. I'm a union pipefitter/welder. I'm actually very handy I'm just not very knowledgeable on cars. I grew up being told I had to pay someone else to do it then like 10 Years ago I started with small things here and there but now I do everything, it's just always my first time so I'm always learning. I have done brake lines, brakes/rotors, radiators, tore off the intake (snapped a stud and had to weld a bolt and back it out)to switch the knock sensor, exhaust repairs, I change and balance my tired, alternator, quick struts. Vvt Oil solenoids. Not to sound cocky but as long as it's the same relative skill requirements as that stuff I should be able to get it. Usually I go into these projects to thinking I'm in way over my head but they end up going relatively smooth and faster than expected. I'm in R.I. by the way.

 

[MassHoe04]

Basic hand-held propane torch (BernzOmatic) I used was sufficient heat to melt out the plastic on U joints I did on my Jeep last year.
Acetylene alone will be more than hot enough to do it for ya.
Don't go crazy hot. Just enough to make the plastic to expand out of the joint. You don't want to overheat and possibly warp the ears of the yoke.

RI is my favorite place to go! Especially Westerly/Misquamicut (and the "quiet corner" of CT).
No matter where you are, you are never far from the ocean.

 

[OR VietVet]

I have seen the cups literally pop out of the ears when the pressure releases after heated.

 

[George B]

You can handle this job. Just be sure to use genuine GM seals and ask us lots of questions.

 

[MassHoe04]

I have seen the cups literally pop out of the ears when the pressure releases after heated.

I could see that happening if the cap seals were still holding tight.
Definitely would want to be sure to have it pointed away from you.
Even if it popped up a little, a cap heated cherry red could land on your hand or arm and give a nice burn.

 

[OR VietVet]

Yes, most of the time when the pressure releases, the cup just pops up a bit but I have seen two times where the pressure popped 'em right out and about 6" to 12" in the air. I thought at that point, "Don't want to be looking real close at that next time".

 

[Blackmar401]

Basic hand-held propane torch (BernzOmatic) I used was sufficient heat to melt out the plastic on U joints I did on my Jeep last year.
Acetylene alone will be more than hot enough to do it for ya.
Don't go crazy hot. Just enough to make the plastic to expand out of the joint. You don't want to overheat and possibly warp the ears of the yoke.

RI is my favorite place to go! Especially Westerly/Misquamicut (and the "quiet corner" of CT).
No matter where you are, you are never far from the ocean.

I'll just keep the oxygen off and go easy, I don't want to warp anything. I don't have any little map gas torches but there is quite a bit on control with a full size one

 

[Blackmar401]

You can handle this job. Just be sure to use genuine GM seals and ask us lots of questions.

Will do, thanks.