There are just some days I wish I didn't turn wrenches

[OR VietVet]

Kind of a lot of work for a pre-purchase inspection, wouldn't you say?

Seriously, I assume the person bought it after the inspection.

Looking good and boy did it ever need some maintenance. Should be running and looking good after all that work.

@Fless, I did the inspection and he negotiated a $1500 reduction in the purchase price. The seller was selling for her grand daughter. I have said many many times, that Honda's and Toyota's handle lack of maintenance better than any other manufacturer. I did all the "engine running" stuff under the hood and starts and runs great. Today is just headlights install and bumper reassembly and the lower shields.

@Tahoe14, Yea, lack of maintenance and now runs fine. Today is PCV valve, headlights, bumper reassembly and lower shields. It will be my customer's daughter's vehicle and he depends on me for maintenance for all 4 of his families vehicles.

 

[OR VietVet]

Ok, finished up this morning. Installed the headlight assemblies and checks to make sure all works and installed the front bumper and grille assemblies and then the pcv valve and then the 2 lower shields.

If you look close, at the 1st 2 pics, you will see the blue painter's tape on the bolt heads, where I made them tighter to allow to get way back in the respective holes, without having the bolts drop.

 

[OR VietVet]

 

[OR VietVet]

 

[S33k3r]

I have a 2008 CRV that was given to me. It originally had been parked (it's sat for like 4 years now) because it was severely leaking oil -- they couldn't tell me from where. While it say, the radiator was scavenged from it, the battery was scavenged from it, and one other item I can't remember. The right, rear door was dented, also. I've replaced the door -- that was the easy part. I got a new radiator, and discovered the wiring to the hood release had been cut! So it is paused, at the moment, while I figure that out. It was mostly paused due to inclement weather. This all to say that when I get it all back together and get it ready to run, it is likely to spew oil from only God knows where until I can fix/get that fixed too.

 

[mountie]

I have a 2008 CRV that was given to me. It originally had been parked (it's sat for like 4 years now) because it was severely leaking oil -- they couldn't tell me from where. While it say, the radiator was scavenged from it, the battery was scavenged from it, and one other item I can't remember. The right, rear door was dented, also. I've replaced the door -- that was the easy part. I got a new radiator, and discovered the wiring to the hood release had been cut! So it is paused, at the moment, while I figure that out. It was mostly paused due to inclement weather. This all to say that when I get it all back together and get it ready to run, it is likely to spew oil from only God knows where until I can fix/get that fixed too.

That engine is worth something……. Honda & Acura racers look for it.

 

[OR VietVet]

The 2.4 engine, in the 2012, I worked on, is a timing chain and not a timing belt.

I have a 2008 CRV that was given to me. It originally had been parked (it's sat for like 4 years now) because it was severely leaking oil -- they couldn't tell me from where. While it say, the radiator was scavenged from it, the battery was scavenged from it, and one other item I can't remember. The right, rear door was dented, also. I've replaced the door -- that was the easy part. I got a new radiator, and discovered the wiring to the hood release had been cut! So it is paused, at the moment, while I figure that out. It was mostly paused due to inclement weather. This all to say that when I get it all back together and get it ready to run, it is likely to spew oil from only God knows where until I can fix/get that fixed too.

The one I worked on had some oil seepage from the "oil filter housing" and I warned him for a later date. Looks to be pretty easy to replace. If you take the oil filter/drain plug access cover off and look in there/up, it is right there. Take a look see there. May need to clean all up and start it and see where it leaks.

That engine is worth something……. Honda & Acura racers look for it.

I do know that on my road test, after all work, it had lots of power when needed.

 

[S33k3r]

You guys really are the best, thank you!!!

 

[mountie]

You guys really are the best, thank you!!!

You can use PayPal or Zelle…….

 

[S33k3r]

You can use PayPal or Zelle…….

Only if you are sending me money. :'( I've been unemployed 8 of the past 12 months.

 

[mountie]

Only if you are sending me money. :'( I've been unemployed 8 of the past 12 months.

Ouch… Sorry to hear that !!

 

[OR VietVet]

Landlord called around 1 pm. Was 30 minutes out of town and his radiator fans would not shut off on his 2018 Suburban 5.3 4x4. I talked him thru the fuse box under hood and he pulled the related fuse, 40 amp. Told him to finish what he was doing and reinstall and drive here. Got here at 5 pm. I had done some you tube research and found is a very common problem. When he pulled in, the fans were roaring, roaring. I removed the negative cable at battery. CTS looked like hell when removed. His dash cluster display was at 160 degrees and turns out had been that way for a few days. I chewed him out for not telling me. The thermostat looked normal but turns out is a common problem, according to dealer parts guy. I went to dealer before he got here and got a new CTS and thermostat assembly with thermostat, housing and seal. Easy to swap it all out and reassembly. Then temp at dash climbed to normal just below 210 and great heat and fans functioned normally but start up, as they cycled with a/c on, could hear a squawk noise. Did not sound normal. He is going to Maui in 2 weeks and I can have to do the fans, oil change, clean throttle body and MAF and engine air filter and CAF and whatever else I find. has 96k miles now.

Please tell me what you think about the fans noise. I think he ran them too long on the "overdrive" "save the engine" mode and has damaged bearings.

2018 Suburban radiator fans

Radiator fans bearing noises

rumble.com

 

[mountie]

Landlord called around 1 pm. Was 30 minutes out of town and his radiator fans would not shut off on his 2018 Suburban 5.3 4x4. I talked him thru the fuse box under hood and he pulled the related fuse, 40 amp. Told him to finish what he was doing and reinstall and drive here. Got here at 5 pm. I had done some you tube research and found is a very common problem. When he pulled in, the fans were roaring, roaring. I removed the negative cable at battery. CTS looked like hell when removed. His dash cluster display was at 160 degrees and turns out had been that way for a few days. I chewed him out for not telling me. The thermostat looked normal but turns out is a common problem, according to dealer parts guy. I went to dealer before he got here and got a new CTS and thermostat assembly with thermostat, housing and seal. Easy to swap it all out and reassembly. Then temp at dash climbed to normal just below 210 and great heat and fans functioned normally but start up, as they cycled with a/c on, could hear a squawk noise. Did not sound normal. He is going to Maui in 2 weeks and I can have to do the fans, oil change, clean throttle body and MAF and engine air filter and CAF and whatever else I find. has 96k miles now.

Please tell me what you think about the fans noise. I think he ran them too long on the "overdrive" "save the engine" mode and has damaged bearings.

2018 Suburban radiator fans

Radiator fans bearing noises

rumble.com

View attachment 474256View attachment 474257View attachment 474258View attachment 474259View attachment 474260View attachment 474261

Good grief !! What a story !! ( Another variation for why I am glad to own a 2005 5.3. 4x4 …...
Or, can that happen to mine, or is the 2018 that much different ?? I hope ??

 

[strutaeng]

It's weird that the temperature was pegged "only" at 160F and fans were full blast, no?

I wonder why ECU commanded fans on at that temperature?

The temperature sender looks similar to the previous generation LS engine Gen III/IV. AFAIK, the Gen III/IV are very reliable. The only time I've replaced one on those engines is when i was swapping an engine and the hoisting chain caught the sensor and broke it. But it's 2025, so perhaps things have changed?

Have you confirmed with your scan tool that's the correct temperature the ECU is reporting? Did the new temperature sender and thermostat fix the issue? Or was the engine temperature actually 160F as a result of the fans on full blast?

I doubt the electric fans have been damaged by running the truck like that? Try spinning them by hand and not any unusual resistance, or any grittiness or howling. If so, then maybe the internal bearings are damaged.

 

[OR VietVet]

There is no "0" on the engine temp gauge. The lowest temp it shows is 160 degrees. He was driving around with it at 160 but still had reasonable heat. The system was trying to protect the engine with fans on "Super High" and was a constant fan speed. It did not cycle. I believe the biggest reason was the failed CTS. All I know is that after the new thermostat and CTS, all worked as should and I went on a 8 mile road test and all was good and temp reading, on a completely warm engine was just below 210, at the normal reading. It is a 207 degree thermostat.

@mountie, my 2005 Tahoe Z71 runs at just below 210 degrees on my gauge too and I am glad to only work on the 2018 and not own it. I am unaware if same scenario can happen to our 2005's.

 

[OR VietVet]

The work just keeps coming. Got a call this morning for an oil change on a 2020 Corolla 1.8 and set up for later in the week.

The daughter of the Corolla owner has an ongoing work after work piece of crap 2017 Cherokee Latitude 3.2 engine. I ordered in Mopar park brake switch and the transfer case switch, known as a Terrain switch. Plus front pads and rotors. very thin pads.

Opened up the console and there was filth, I mean FILTY. Spilled fluids and dirt. Had shorted out the 2 switches. She may still need a PTU assembly, better known as a transfer case. Well known weak spot for these rigs. Trying the shorted out switch first. I am doing the switch and if needs transfer case, a well known shop in town will do it. Cleaned the console area and installed switches and they both work and no "Service 4wd" light so far. Then on to the brakes. A whole other story there.

 

[OR VietVet]

The lug bolts were the one piece lug nut/stud design. They have the caps on them too. Someone had over tightened them and I could not get some broke loose with my highest torque rating on my Milwaukee Tool 1/2" impact. She is gonna get some Dorman 611005 solid one piece with no caps on them and take it to a tire shop for removal before I do the work. It was a Husky deep 1/2" drive impact socket that is 19mm. I just ordered a new one from my Snap On guy.

 

[Fless]

The lug bolts were the one piece lug nut/stud design. They have the caps on them too. Someone had over tightened them and I could not get some broke loose with my highest torque rating on my Milwaukee Tool 1/2" impact. She is gonna get some Dorman 611005 solid one piece with no caps on them and take it to a tire shop for removal before I do the work. It was a Husky deep 1/2" drive impact socket that is 19mm. I just ordered a new one from my Snap On guy.

View attachment 474305View attachment 474306

I'd suggest a 3/4" breaker bar and a 10' pipe as a helper, but I'm not sure even that would have done it.

 

[OR VietVet]

I have a 3 foot breaker but the tin caps on the nut heads are FUBAR, already. A local tire shop did a rotate recently.

 

[Fless]

I have a 3 foot breaker but the tin caps on the nut heads are FUBAR, already. A local tire shop did a rotate recently.

I hate those things. First thing I bought after I picked up my DD was solid lug nuts.