Tahoe stalls when warm

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rockola1971

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What a mess. There are so many possible causes here. Fuel or Air Filter, TAC Module if equipped, PCM, Associated ignition wiring, Ignition switch, Battery, Alternator......etc. Get back to the basics. With battery charged let idle in driveway and check voltage at battery (with a multimeter) not your dash meter. Should be 13.8v-15.8v. If that checks ok then check your air filter. Let idle in driveway for 15mins+ and see if you get it to shutdown. If you cant then likely a fuel filter or heat related (electronics/wiring) problem. Ignition switch (electrical switch at base of steering column) could be the culprit. Feel it. Is it real hot? When engine stops responding to throttle do you have a "reduced engine power" message on your instrument cluster?
 
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Jim Adler

Jim Adler

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What a mess. There are so many possible causes here. Fuel or Air Filter, TAC Module if equipped, PCM, Associated ignition wiring, Ignition switch, Battery, Alternator......etc. Get back to the basics. With battery charged let idle in driveway and check voltage at battery (with a multimeter) not your dash meter. Should be 13.8v-15.8v. If that checks ok then check your air filter. Let idle in driveway for 15mins+ and see if you get it to shutdown. If you cant then likely a fuel filter or heat related (electronics/wiring) problem. Ignition switch (electrical switch at base of steering column) could be the culprit. Feel it. Is it real hot? When engine stops responding to throttle do you have a "reduced engine power" message on your instrument cluster?
Yes I get that msg, but not always.
 
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Jim Adler

Jim Adler

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I haven’t done the fuel pressure test yet, but I don’t feel that’s the issue considering it’s symptoms. In a nutshell, I can start it, let it run for half an hour and nothing. Runs perfect, but as soon as I start driving after a few minutes I’m getting no response from my gas pedal. It seems like the more I press on it the faster it dies, if that makes sense.
 

ks03

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I haven’t done the fuel pressure test yet, but I don’t feel that’s the issue considering it’s symptoms. In a nutshell, I can start it, let it run for half an hour and nothing. Runs perfect, but as soon as I start driving after a few minutes I’m getting no response from my gas pedal. It seems like the more I press on it the faster it dies, if that makes sense.
Sounds like a potential fueling issue to me.
I once had a ‘96-99 van that had been to multiple shops, acting like that. injector balance test looked decent cold, or just idling, but then after driving and acting up I’d get uneven and very low flow on multiple injectors. Thinking that age range had injector issues, I put in a new spider/injectors, and was very disappointed that it would still fail the same way. Then I got out a different injector balance tool that directly fires the injectors instead of using the vehicles pcm, and injectors tested good. Got a new (straight from the junkyard) pcm and it was happy.
That being said, I’d hook up a fuel pressure gauge and start driving
 

02Z71Raven

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Had almost the exact same symptoms. Tried a ton of things. Ended up being exactly what I suspected a few times along the way. Replaced my crankshaft position sensor. Never did it again. It's magnetic and it's plastic. When it gets warm it fails. Let it sit for a few minutes and it'll run again for a bit, but inevitably die again.
Less than $40, can't hurt to try it.
 
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Jim Adler

Jim Adler

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Had almost the exact same symptoms. Tried a ton of things. Ended up being exactly what I suspected a few times along the way. Replaced my crankshaft position sensor. Never did it again. It's magnetic and it's plastic. When it gets warm it fails. Let it sit for a few minutes and it'll run again for a bit, but inevitably die again.
Less than $40, can't hurt to try
So after reading ur reply I’ve decided to YouTube the hell out of it and come to the conclusion that a failing camshaft or crankshaft sensor exhibits the exact same issues I’m having with my truck. I found them on Amazon for like $25 a piece and also researched ways to test both the sensors first, but from the way they were describing it pretty sure it’s gonna be either one. Or I could just order them and if that fixes it Great! If not, I’m only out 50 bux. Either way I’ll post again with updates and pics
 

afpj

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Can the camshaft sensor be changed without removing the intake? I've never changed, just the oil pressure one. Hope you don't get saddled with cheap knockoffs from Amazon. Keep us posted.
 

OR VietVet

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So after reading ur reply I’ve decided to YouTube the hell out of it and come to the conclusion that a failing camshaft or crankshaft sensor exhibits the exact same issues I’m having with my truck. I found them on Amazon for like $25 a piece and also researched ways to test both the sensors first, but from the way they were describing it pretty sure it’s gonna be either one. Or I could just order them and if that fixes it Great! If not, I’m only out 50 bux. Either way I’ll post again with updates and pics
You do not want to cheap out for those parts. Generic aftermarket parts will leave you stranded.
 
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Jim Adler

Jim Adler

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Can the camshaft sensor be changed without removing the intake? I've never changed, just the oil pressure one. Hope you don't get saddled with cheap knockoffs from Amazon. Keep us posted.
From what I’ve seen no it can’t, but where there’s there’s a way. I’m sure someone out there has figured out how, but it wasn’t the right way. I’m actually ordering from Amazon but I’m getting AC Delco so it should be fine.
 

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