Well after driving around with my sagging rear for a while, it was time to replace the worn out leaf springs. I figure I would give my experience and 2c. While it may seem an easy enough job to do, its always nice to have a little info before hand, so I wrote this up. From my research there was a lot of talk about dropping the gas tank to get to the bolts and other discussions on leaf spring length. I have a 2dr and the tank did not have to drop. I have copied a size chart posted by Retorq in another discussion that is accurate. The 2dr needs a 54" spring. The hardest part of this job is getting the old bolts out. You will need a good 1/2" breaker bar (my 3/8 broke), a small steel mallet, torque wrench and probably some heat such as a MAP gas torch. Also get some PB Blaster penetrating oil, WD-40 isn't going to cut it. As far as ordering goes, good luck in finding free shipping, not gonna happen. Each one is around 70lbs and will cost about $100 for shipping so factor that into your cost. I got mine from General spring of Kansas City. They also were the only ones to have an HD version, 2200lbs instead of 1750. They were $129 each as apposed to $99 so I figured WTF and got the HD's. Link... http://www.generalspringkc.com/product_p/22-909hd.htm. You will also need new Ubolts. Forget Ebay, get them from rockauto.com They are quality pieces. You may also want to get new shackles, one for each side. They come with 2 bolts and a bushing. You wont need the bushing since the spring already has it installed. You will however need a new bolt for the front of the spring so order 2 (one for each spring) when you order the springs. After you pound the hell out of the old bolts to free them from their rusted grasp, they will be useless. Ok, so raise the back of the truck by the rear axle and support the truck by the frame on jack stands. Leave the jack under the axle. CHOCK YOUR FRONT WHEELS! Start by removing the bolts from the spring's Ubolts and removing the top plate, bolts and bottom bracket. I ended up cleaning and painting the bracket and plate. The top plate hole is chamfered to fit the bolt only one way. Next, begin removing each bolt from the back and front of the spring. If you plan on replacing the shackles, and you should, then you only need to remove the bottom bolt. At least on the 2dr, you do not have to drop the tank. As you can see, if you have a factory hitch, there is a hole in the side large enough to fit the head of the bolt and slide out. The reason the bolts have the nut facing the outside is because in the future you may need to bash the bolt out with a hammer and you need room to swing. I was able to install the bolts the same way without an issue. It helps to have a large punch or a similar size bolt to hit it the rest of the way through the bushing. Mine fought their way out all the way home. I ended up removing all the bolts and springs from each side (at this time you may want to clean and paint the parts). This left the rear hanging with the shock pressing down and making it twist a little. Not a big deal, you just have to muscle the rear into place after the springs are installed. I also added some grease to the bolts before sliding them into the bushings. Also if you install new shackles, install them on the spring first because you will not be able to put in the top bolt... you can tighten it later.