Suspension Paint?

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CJ Rodarme

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Now I know that this is not the "right" way to do things but I'd appreciate some input anyways. I picked up a lift kit and it has some light rust. The kit is only a few months old and the rust really isn't that bad. However, I would like to clean it up a bit if possible and maybe give it some color. I called into my local powder coating shop and got an estimate of 150-400, depending on how long it would take to sandblast it. The lift is fine how it is and doesn't look terrible, but if I could I wouldn't mind making it look a little nicer if I can, but I don't want to have to keep redoing it because of it paint chipping really bad or what not. Anyone have experience?
 

OR VietVet

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IMO, the powder coating is the way to go, especially since they are going to sand blast the parts first. I would have said that sand blasting is a must anyway.
 

Staggered 02

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Powder coat is absolutely the way to go. 150 - 400 is way too high. Too bad you are on the diagonal opposite side of the country. I send all of my powder coat work to Tampa. Chrome to Socal, polish work to SoCal etc.

There is however, a shop in Everett that does decent work and is not overly expensive. LMK is you are interested, I will see if I can find their business card. So you can swing by or give them a call.

Just so you know you can also coat your parts with a clear powder coat which add to the luster and longevity of your parts. Easy to clean too. Here are some examples of some of the things that I have powder coated. The clear coat is a bit of an upcharge as you are basically powder coating twice.

20190423_205903.jpg 20200425_144750.jpg 20200218_142537.jpg 20200218_161414.jpg 20200417_125725.jpg
 
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CJ Rodarme

CJ Rodarme

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Powder coat is absolutely the way to go. 150 - 400 is way too high. Too bad you are on the diagonal opposite side of the country. I send all of my powder coat work to Tampa. Chrome to Socal, polish work to SoCal etc.

There is however, a shop in Everett that does decent work and is not overly expensive. LMK is you are interested, I will see if I can find their business card. So you can swing by or give them a call.

Just so you know you can also coat your parts with a clear powder coat which add to the luster and longevity of your parts. Easy to clean too. Here are some examples of some of the things that I have powder coated. The clear coat is a bit of an upcharge as you are basically powder coating twice.

View attachment 247011 View attachment 247014 View attachment 247017 View attachment 247018 View attachment 247020
I’m interested in looking into the shop in Everett. I figured that it was kind of high, especially since the only things I want coated are the front crossmembers and maybe the spindles
 

Dantheman1540

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Like everyone else said powder coating is the bees knees. I get everything done when I can afford to. Pricing is highly variable depending on the location, paint color and size/condition of the items. To lower the price of the sandblasting you could attack the parts with a wire wheel on a grinder. I know my guy charges considerably less if I prep the item first.

Also a color like the picture below with a ton of flake takes multiple coats (I think 6) where a simple color might only take one or 2 coats and be cheaper.

IMG_97961 (2).jpg
 
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CJ Rodarme

CJ Rodarme

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Like everyone else said powder coating is the bees knees. I get everything done when I can afford to. Pricing is highly variable depending on the location, paint color and size/condition of the items. To lower the price of the sandblasting you could attack the parts with a wire wheel on a grinder. I know my guy charges considerably less if I prep the item first.

Also a color like the picture below with a ton of flake takes multiple coats (I think 6) where a simple color might only take one or 2 coats and be cheaper.

View attachment 247118
Honestly I'm not looking for anything crazy, just want to clean it up a bit. I've been looking into vinyl wrap on the front crossmember if I want to go crazy with colors but with the rock chip it has something would need to be done regardless. I'll try to call around and see if I can find anything cheaper.
 

petethepug

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Deff what was said about prep and clear. Suspension paint is something you only want to do once. My level of OCD on powder coat comes from the disappointment of normal road grime, engine fluids and pitting ruins powder coat in a year or two.

I sent off a pair of cast aluminum calipers to a buddy in WA state for a rebuild & p/c w/ clear. When done correctly, it coats the parts to make them look like they were dipped. They go back to new condition when cleaned with warm water & dawn dish soap. Have an experienced shop preform the work and it’ll pay off 200% They’ll know what part NOT to blast and p/c so reassembly is not a nightmare from cleaning off p/c from mating or bearing surfaces.

ca258d7645427bd02b33516fb30ab247.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Dantheman1540

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Deff what was said about prep and clear. Suspension paint is something you only want to do once. My level of OCD on powder coat comes from the disappointment of normal road grime, engine fluids and pitting ruins powder coat in a year or two.

I sent off a pair of cast aluminum calipers to a buddy in WA state for a rebuild & p/c w/ clear. When done correctly, it coats the parts to make them look like they were dipped. They go back to new condition when cleaned with warm water & dawn dish soap. Have an experienced shop preform the work and it’ll pay off 200% They’ll know what part NOT to blast and p/c so reassembly is not a nightmare from cleaning off p/c from mating or bearing surfaces.

ca258d7645427bd02b33516fb30ab247.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Very good point about what NOT to coat! Nothing like trying to fit a 3/4" bolt in a 1/2" hole. :leghump:
 
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CJ Rodarme

CJ Rodarme

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Got quoted 120 to get my crossmembers done from a different local shop, no work around on the cost. Thinking I'll go with them.
 

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