Subwoofer Questions

[Fosscore]

Suburban/xl box will not fit Tahoe/Yukon. Just go to a junkyard. Make sure to get the clips that hold it in if you can

^^^this

 

[Franklyn42]

@Fosscore you seem you know yourself around subs quite well. Can you recommend me one?

how did you pick your sub? Would you recommend it?

Sorry for being off topic. I'm looking for a good sub for my ride and can't wrap my head around which would suit me best.

Do I need to spend over $1000 to get some decent sound? I've been reading the reviews all over the internet and I didn't get closer to finding a solution. Plus most reviews are hype. Blatant copy of manufacturer's features that's it. Now I've found a different site which writes more on our language. Still there are 10 subs on the page and it's hard to choose. This best car sub for deep bass post is different. What I loved about the reviews were that he highlights many negatives. Best of all they are not watered down.

What are the most important things when you're looking for a sub? Any tips?

 

[Wylie_Tahoe]

Do I need to spend over $1000 to get some decent sound?

Are you looking to replace the factory woofer or forget it, and improve over the factory setup? The answer to the question, is no. However, you could 2 times that if you wanted.

 

[rgosart]

@Fosscore you seem you know yourself around subs quite well. Can you recommend me one?

how did you pick your sub? Would you recommend it?

Sorry for being off topic. I'm looking for a good sub for my ride and can't wrap my head around which would suit me best.

Do I need to spend over $1000 to get some decent sound? I've been reading the reviews all over the internet and I didn't get closer to finding a solution. Plus most reviews are hype. Blatant copy of manufacturer's features that's it. Now I've found a different site which writes more on our language. Still there are 10 subs on the page and it's hard to choose. This best car sub for deep bass post is different. What I loved about the reviews were that he highlights many negatives. Best of all they are not watered down.

What are the most important things when you're looking for a sub? Any tips?

The first thing to decide is what sound you are looking for. Larger subs in ported boxes are better for lower frequencies. Smaller subs in sealed boxes are more responsive. The most you could get into the factory box in the left rear corner is an 8" sub. You can upgrade it, but do not expect it to be loud.

What kind of music do you typically listen to?

For $1000, you could upgrade the whole sound system in the truck. Speakers, amps, subwoofer, and headunit. I'll probably end up spending about $1200 on mine and that will include a Kenwood Android auto capable radio, JL Audio 12W3V3-2 sub, Kenwood X801-5 5 channel amp, and some JL C2-650 front component speakers. That does not include any installation cost. Only materials.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I second rgosart's comments and questions. If you want strong bass, you probably won't get it out of the stock OEM enclosure, which supports only an 8" sub. I recently wrote this up for a person on this Forum, so I'll paste it here for you.

Regarding subwoofers, JL Audio, Fockford Fosgate, and Kicker are considered to be the best speakers for low frequency reproduction (Focal subwoofers too, if you can afford them). The choice of subwoofer, and more important the subwoofer enclosure, are somewhat dependent upon your music type and bass 'loudness' preferences. If you simply want loud bass, the ported enclosure is the way to go. If you want tight, clean bass, the sealed enclosure is the way to go. It is important that the subwoofer speaker is matched to the enclosure, to get the most out of the low frequency reproduction. Subwoofers are manufactured to unique specific acoustic specifications, which determine how many cu. ft. are required for the enclosure size and type (ported or sealed) for the specific subwoofer, and a mismatch here will result in sub-optimal low frequency reproduction. This is important when you consider purchasing a pre-built enclosure, or building a custom enclosure, as the enclosure size is somewhat dependent upon and determined by your vehicle, and where you want to place the enclosure. As such, the selection of the specific subwoofer speaker is dependent upon your enclosure interior dimensions (cu. ft.), and not vice versa.

When I was looking for a subwoofer for my Honda Fit, I wanted a small enclosure that did not take up all of my very limited cargo space. I was initially looking at a JL Audio subwoofer, buy my audio shop advised my to look at AudioMobile subwoofers, which I had never heard of. The AudioMobile subwoofer is USA manufactured specifically for small enclosures, sealed enclosures in particular, but it is not a pancake shell profile subwoofer (which, despite all of the marketing promotions, does not reproduce low frequencies as well as a standard speaker shell profile). I selected a mid price point AudioMobile 10" subwoofer (the size that I believe reproduces the best low frequency sound for Rock, which is my music preference) for $300, and this subwoofer is designed for a 1 cu. ft. sealed enclosure. I had a custom, downward firing sealed enclosure built for $150, which included a carpet wrap that matched my interior carpet color. I bought a Rockford Fosgate 500 RMS watt amp for $300 to drive the AudioMobile sub. The low frequency reproduction quality is as good as the JL Audio W6 subwoofer, at half the price (not nearly as loud, though, if simply loud is your preference). I was so happy with this AudioMobile subwoofer and its small enclosure size requirement in my Honda Fit, that I used this same speaker in my Denali, in a custom built enclosure between the second row captain's chairs. It produces more than enough quality low frequency sounds and volume for my musical preferences. (Note: I am in no way connected with either AudioMobile or Rockford Fosgate, nor do I receive any promotional compensation from either brand, so these recommendations are strictly my own, based upon my personal experiences.)​

I trust that this will provide you with some additional information and perspective. Other folks will chime in with their perspectives.

I wish you the best of outcomes on your subwoofer project.

 

[Fosscore]

@Fosscore you seem you know yourself around subs quite well. Can you recommend me one?

how did you pick your sub? Would you recommend it?

Sorry for being off topic. I'm looking for a good sub for my ride and can't wrap my head around which would suit me best.

Do I need to spend over $1000 to get some decent sound? I've been reading the reviews all over the internet and I didn't get closer to finding a solution. Plus most reviews are hype. Blatant copy of manufacturer's features that's it. Now I've found a different site which writes more on our language. Still there are 10 subs on the page and it's hard to choose. This best car sub for deep bass post is different. What I loved about the reviews were that he highlights many negatives. Best of all they are not watered down.

What are the most important things when you're looking for a sub? Any tips?

Not much I can add here that these guys who have way more audio knowledge and insight haven't already put on the table. Good luck on your search and execution. Find your budget and what you are trying to accomplish.

 

[Jonesy92]

I built a box that fits between the 3rd row and the trunk door, 2”-4” space. I’ve got 2 Pioneer A series 12’s, powered by a Pioneer Gm5602 amplifier that’s mounted under the 2nd row seats. Sounds awesome, and surprisingly the trunk doesn’t have rattle, but you can definitely tell there’s something behind it. I upgraded all my door speakers to Alpine R series, and my tweeters are DB Bullets. I have a Pioneer AVH2900BT that is awesome.
Back to the box/drivers, I started with a wedge box, and recalculated the inner volume once I decided how much(6” off the back), I was going to take off. Box originally was 2.0 cu ft per side, and each driver needed 1.25-1.5cu ft ported space. So after measuring a zillion times and cutting only once, the box ended up being 1.45 cu ft ported for each chamber. Works great! Sounds awesome, and I get compliments here about not only the sound, volume and being able to feel each bass note, I get complimented on the quality.
It’s response is anywhere from 34hz to 64 hz, but I do have the frequency set to stop anything above 63, which is a radio preset that works well.

(The dual was only used while waiting for my second Pioneer to be delivered. Can’t believe they were out of stock... Faceplate will be painted also. All in time!)

 

[DIsney]

I ended up going with the Kicker CompRT 43CWRT81. I used a Kicker 42PXA5001 500W mono mini amp. I mounted it inside the storage compartment on the left rear. I personally love the sound. It's not shaking the cars next to you, but you feel the punch in your gut. Overall my system sounds better than my 2019 QX80 did.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I ended up going with the Kicker CompRT 43CWRT81. I used a Kicker 42PXA5001 500W mono mini amp. I mounted it inside the storage compartment on the left rear. I personally love the sound. It's not shaking the cars next to you, but you feel the punch in your gut. Overall my system sounds better than my 2019 QX80 did.

I'm glad to read that you got what you wanted out of your subwoofer installation project.

 

[YukonVA]

As much as I'd like to do that I don't want to cut my jack mount or move it. Thanks for the info though . Hoping to keep this as stock as possible (not talking about the woofer itself, just the build). I'm also interested in figuring out how to pull the center console subwoofer out and replacing it, as well, though I have no idea how to even get to it. Haven't had much luck in way of finding tutorials on how to get there, though I kay just be looking at the wrong places or something .

I know this thread is now a year old, but I found one just yesterday of a guy doing it. You need to remove your seats and pull out the cupholders, remove (2) 10mm bolts at the front of the console near the cig lighters and then you are pretty much free and clear.