Stock lifting!! For Tahoe 2dr please help and attention

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saif najd

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Dear all

First I searched the Internet for the best 2~3inch lift for my 2dr tahoe unfortunately I couldn't find any good method!

And just yesterday I saw a stock suburban maybe 97 model was higher than my tahoe I checked it out it looks stock u asked the owner he confirmed


Now I want to know How I can get that in my Tahoe I need the lift without sacrificing any thing
 

imi4tth3w

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2wd or 4wd?

2-3" lift can be achieved by cranking your torsion bars. which has probably been discussed here no more than 1000000000 times. but you sill sacrifice your ride.

only way to get a lift and keep factory ride is to do a bigger lift like the 6" RCX (which is really only about a 4" lift cranked to 6". you can set it where ever you want aka at 4" to keep factory ride and be lifted. but it will cost a bit more than just cranking your torsion bars. up to you)
 

Gzes

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A body lift can be 2 or 3 in lift. Works great and will get you where you want to be. Cranking can lift but parts will wear out fast and will ride like crap
 
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saif najd

saif najd

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2wd or 4wd?

2-3" lift can be achieved by cranking your torsion bars. which has probably been discussed here no more than 1000000000 times. but you sill sacrifice your ride.

only way to get a lift and keep factory ride is to do a bigger lift like the 6" RCX (which is really only about a 4" lift cranked to 6". you can set it where ever you want aka at 4" to keep factory ride and be lifted. but it will cost a bit more than just cranking your torsion bars. up to you)

My problem clearly is missing the FJ cruiser suspension (the flexibility and articulation)

I will NOT cranck any thing all what I am looking for is the best way with good budget as well 4 inch hmm

---------- Post added at 01:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:24 PM ----------

A body lift can be 2 or 3 in lift. Works great and will get you where you want to be. Cranking can lift but parts will wear out fast and will ride like crap

This is it I want a stock like or more not less no point if iam getting less
 
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Dowsewashere

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dude that last comment didnt make any sense. But you have two options being you wont crank. a suspension lift or body lift. also a FJ has coils instead of torsion bars giving them a better set of options for articulation. and it sounds like you are knowledgeable about off roading so i say suspensions your best bet.
 
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saif najd

saif najd

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dude that last comment didnt make any sense. But you have two options being you wont crank. a suspension lift or body lift. also a FJ has coils instead of torsion bars giving them a better set of options for articulation. and it sounds like you are knowledgeable about off roading so i say suspensions your best bet.

Thank you yes exactly I need a suspension lift which can make the front suspension more flexible like modern SUV unlike the one I have already (the Tahoe stock) when I jacked the front ir when I jump the side wakes I was seprised how the front didn't have that much of movement so I am thinking long arms and longer shocks? May do the trick?
 

livingez_123

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How about building a good crawler and towing to your off roading site. the IFS will only get you so far. you can always go back to a solid front axle and run some long arms with coilover shocks, that will give you all of the adjustability you need and still have a nice ride.

Just a thought
 
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saif najd

saif najd

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How about building a good crawler and towing to your off roading site. the IFS will only get you so far. you can always go back to a solid front axle and run some long arms with coilover shocks, that will give you all of the adjustability you need and still have a nice ride.

Just a thought

The thing is the city I am in have the worst road conditions you can imagine so I am using the tahoe daily for example if I jump the side wake I can save my self a 20~30 min trip! So I need the suspension which can take such easily

Hmmm wait a second, solid axle thats will be great.

How cab I get longer arms for the stock setup ?
 
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Dowsewashere

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I know I've seen a bracket kit that will allow for coils. You're going to need a leaf sprung solid front axle to get the best articulation. And if you run dual shock mounts it should ride fairly well. You're going to need off road design shackles, a dana 60 with a drivers side drop out of a late 70s ford yadda yadda. There are plenty of write ups.
 
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saif najd

saif najd

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Great link that work shop and knowledge a day dream to the local market!

---------- Post added at 05:59 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:58 AM ----------

I know I've seen a bracket kit that will allow for coils. You're going to need a leaf sprung solid front axle to get the best articulation. And if you run dual shock mounts it should ride fairly well. You're going to need off road design shackles, a dana 60 with a drivers side drop out of a late 70s ford yadda yadda. There are plenty of write ups.

Thank you I will search for it but I need to check for the front solid axle if I can find any around first
 

Gzes

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People usually want too much for them. You can buy a 78-79 ford that has them part the truck keep the axles and get a better deal. I can goto dealer auctions so I'm gonna find one for a couple hundred. Pull axle and motor N trans and scrap the rest
 
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saif najd

saif najd

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People usually want too much for them. You can buy a 78-79 ford that has them part the truck keep the axles and get a better deal. I can goto dealer auctions so I'm gonna find one for a couple hundred. Pull axle and motor N trans and scrap the rest

Good idea but my problem is that ford was not famous or even known for them in this local market therefore I am thinking of getting it from an old chevy can I do that?
 

Gzes

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Yea just find a Dana 60. I almost got axles for $350 for both but it was a regular 12 bolt in back and dana 40... No go
 
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saif najd

saif najd

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Yea just find a Dana 60. I almost got axles for $350 for both but it was a regular 12 bolt in back and dana 40... No go

Great I will hunt for them, do I need to change the rear too?

I like the rear axle if I am not wrong it have the something like a lock I can feel it so I want to keep it
 

Dowsewashere

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You wont need a new rear but it may be a good idea to get a 14 sf rear axle, regeared depending on the front. I'm assuming you still have the ten bolt gov bomb. So you should get a 3/4ton or heavy half 14 bolt rear end. Its easiest to use a ford front axle because the diffs on the drive side like all of our tcases. If you use a chevy you have to get a passenger side transfercase aka a pain in the butt.
 

Gzes

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Yep. And a Dana 60 is 8 lug the rear 12 bolt is 6 lug so its bed to change it out to have beefy axles and matching lug pattern
 
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saif najd

saif najd

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You wont need a new rear but it may be a good idea to get a 14 sf rear axle, regeared depending on the front. I'm assuming you still have the ten bolt gov bomb. So you should get a 3/4ton or heavy half 14 bolt rear end. Its easiest to use a ford front axle because the diffs on the drive side like all of our tcases. If you use a chevy you have to get a passenger side transfercase aka a pain in the butt.

True but as I said before the ford was not known :(

Ok lets go back is there a problem if I found longer upper and lower front arms?

Wouldn't this solve the problem?
 

Dowsewashere

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No, because youd need new CV's extended tierods and a bunch of other front end stuff. to get the articulation you want, a leaf sprung straight axle is really the best bet. because i dont believe that there is a coil spring conversion for our IFS. and there for you cannot work on the flex, and the torsion bars really leave no room for change in spring rate.
 

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