Steering rack bushings worn?

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dkad260

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2012 Yukon XL 1500 140K miles

The front end is tight, ball joints, control arms, tie rods, no leaks on the rack. When turning the wheel I can see about 1/4" of moment, curious if this is excessive.

If so, are they replaceable, do the bushings just press in and out?

Quick vid.


 

Doubeleive

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2012 Yukon XL 1500 140K miles

The front end is tight, ball joints, control arms, tie rods, no leaks on the rack. When turning the wheel I can see about 1/4" of moment, curious if this is excessive.

If so, are they replaceable, do the bushings just press in and out?

Quick vid.


there is a support bracket out there (i think) that can be bolted on that will help eliminate that, I believe there may also be bushings but that may be a bit of work.
the brace I am thinking of may be for the gmt800's, you might try poking around the web or maybe another member will know for sure.
here are the bushings from energy suspension
 
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dkad260

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The bushings seem doable with a C-press, hoping by just re-securing the tie rod ends with no movement on the threads would alter the alignment.

I think those brackets are for the 2500's?? Not sure.
 

Doubeleive

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The bushings seem doable with a C-press, hoping by just re-securing the tie rod ends with no movement on the threads would alter the alignment.

I think those brackets are for the 2500's?? Not sure.
if yours is a 2500 then it should be the same or similar system as a gmt800, haven't really looked that hard at one myself.
 

j91z28d1

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can you feel it driving or it's annoying, hard to alignment?

cause if not I'd leave it. you don't need all the harsh road vibrations and hits directly on the rack gears of you don't need it.


drift guys all have solid rack mounts and they change racks like underwear. I feel the flex is probably there for a reason. I tend to leave rubber bushings in everything, my younger days of changing everything to polly and then wondering why they don't last has long past in my old age haha.
 

992dr

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There are a few companies that make bushing kits to eliminate the slop. Izzy has probably the best kit but it's pricey.
Believe it or not they actually help prolong the life of the rack, at least out in the desert. Don't see why they wouldn't do the same on the road in a less harsh environment.


 

mikez71

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Nice video!

I have lateral movement on my passenger bushing, but did not check for axial movement while steering.
In my case, I get a slight clunk if I make faster than slow u-turn, and I seem to have extra outside edge tire wear so I probably have the same type of movement. Personally leaning towards the Energy Suspension bushings just because they are stiffer without being fully rigid.

Any other options? keep 'em coming!
 

petethepug

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At the age of our trucks the entire rack should be replaced with upper / lower control arms and tie rod ends. The only Poly bushings you should use on the front / rear suspension is the ones for the sway bar bushings.
The twisting of the sway bar in the Poly is ideal.

Using Poly on control arms, rack, bump stops or tie rods is not a good idea. The durometer of rubber bushings are engineered / factored into the rack and suspension components for comfort & performance.

Compromising Poly’s longevity
for Rubber’s road manners over the long term is the win. A full or partial poly bushing set up is really only good a a few laps or a pro driver.
 
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