Steering gear box leak

[George B]

The seal replacement is a PITA. You do not have to disassemble the whole steering gear. If you choose to do that, remove pitman arm, there will be a snap ring next and then the first of 2 seals that you have to pry out of there, careful not to damage the sides of the housing and the shaft, then a spacer washer and then the second seal that is buried even farther in there and a bigger PITA. Then reverse with the new seal kit: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=990656&cc=1373105&jsn=2224&jsn=2224

Does the old trick still work where you remove the snap ring, start the truck and turn the wheel to use the hydraulic pressure to push the old seal out? I have only done it once on an older truck.

 

[new2yukon]

I can't imagine the mess that makes. My dice would roll me frantic chaos if I tried that.

 

[new2yukon]

So regarding reman brands...

I see mixed reviews on brands...even on acdelco. If I swap a box I want a good reman. Hoping for tighter steering and a lasting reman.

Apparently bearings aren't always replaced oe upgraded which affects performance and price.

Would you guys risk:
1. acdelco at rockauto $150
2. Napa locally. Prob $180+
3. Online specialty rebuilder for $220.
4. Other.

 

[George B]

I can't imagine the mess that makes. My dice would roll me frantic chaos if I tried that.

It drains all the fluid out real fast!

 

[new2yukon]

So. I pulled the trigger on the rebuilt from the specialty builder. They replace every stinkin' thing that wears (as needed) from what they say.

Reset things to factory spec and so at least I'm not gambling with the possibility of having to R&R twice. Should be a huge upgrade from my loose/worn steering.

Will update when I go to replace it along w/ a new Pittman arm.


Question: Is there any other steering related parts I should replace at time of gear box? Pittman & .....????? (tie rods are new already).

 

[Larryjb]

If you want to know about almost any pitfall you could encounter, I'm usually your go-to guy. If it could possibly happen to me, it will. See this thread:
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/front-end-work-troubles.84081/

One thing I learned: I've not had great luck with ball joint pullers. Maybe I just don't know how to use them, or maybe I'm just too cheap to buy the right one for each ball joint, I don't know. But, I've used forks, usually because I'm replacing the ball joint anyway so I don't care about the boot.

But, I also learned that you you need the right sized fork. If you are going to use a fork, a 1-1/8" fork makes the job go much easier. I had spent half a day wacking away at forks trying to separate ball joints. Then I got this 1-18" fork and they came of in seconds each.

 

[OR VietVet]

So. I pulled the trigger on the rebuilt from the specialty builder. They replace every stinkin' thing that wears (as needed) from what they say.

Reset things to factory spec and so at least I'm not gambling with the possibility of having to R&R twice. Should be a huge upgrade from my loose/worn steering.

Will update when I go to replace it along w/ a new Pittman arm.


Question: Is there any other steering related parts I should replace at time of gear box? Pittman & .....????? (tie rods are new already).

Hell, do it all and get it over with so you don't have to worry about it all:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3443889&cc=1373105&jsn=2220

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10373188&cc=1373105&jsn=2237

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4584936&cc=1373105&jsn=2249

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1153141&cc=1373105&jsn=2254

Make sure when you refill and bleed the system you follow the steps that have been talked about before, starting with the front tires off the ground and fill and bleed air from the system with engine off untill you cannot fill no more and then on ground do the same and then roadtest.

 

[OR VietVet]

Does the old trick still work where you remove the snap ring, start the truck and turn the wheel to use the hydraulic pressure to push the old seal out? I have only done it once on an older truck.

It does work but can be really messy. Shit flies all over when that all comes out of there at the same time. I have seen where the 2 seals are so old and stuck in the bore that if the tech insisted on doing it that way he had to drive in the lot and put more pressure on the seals to blow them out and then have to clean residual seal crud from the bore walls.

 

[new2yukon]

Yes, I will double check on bleed procedures.

Q#1: How long might an idler arm last?
Q#2: How long might the center link last?
Q#3: What is a steering damper?
Q#4: Shouldn't I be able to determine if the parts are bad to prevent wasteful part swapping?

 

[OR VietVet]

You said the tie rods had been replaced. I like it when items that work together are replaced at the same time. If the tie rods wear out and they HAVE BEEN working with the center link, idler arm and pitman arm.......well they all are old and all are needed, IMO. Others will say to just replace as needed but I hate going back in to a place I recently did work on.

The steering damper, if your rig has one, is a sideways mounted shock that attaches at the centerlink and at a bracket on the frame that handles side shudder pulses while driving. The bigger the tires and wheels the more it is needed.