Steering column boot replacement

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whitestingray81

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Hi all,

I just picked up a 2007 Avalanche LT a couple of months ago (I know, this is a Tahoe forum, but there isn't much out there in the way of Avalanche-only help). I've been slowly fixing all the small, nagging problems, but the last one is the steering shaft boot is split and needs to be replaced. A couple of questions:

1. Can I do this myself? I don't have a lift, but I do have ramps to drive up on.

2. What is the procedure to do the replacement? Which bolts need to be removed and what are the torque specs for said bolts?

3. I know I need to tie-down the steering wheel so it doesn't wildly turn and break connected wires, but any other tips?

4. This is the correct boot kit (#3 in picture), correct?

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Below is a picture of said torn boot. If it's important, the AV is 4wd and has the 5.3 flex fuel engine. Thanks!

AVsteeringknuckle_zpsad96219e.jpg
 

diyman

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I have a 2007 GMC Yukon same issue. Are you able to purchased just the boot? The dealer sell the complete set. It's $330 plus tax. With your question removal of the shaft, I looked at mine and it looks like there are only two bolts to remove the shaft. One on top and the other on the bottom above the rack and pinion. Make sure you have the vehicle on a secured jackstands and mark top and bottom connectors with wipe out so when you put it back it will be align.
 

joshcarl

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that is the correct part.

you can buy the boot itself, but make sire that the supplier that you're going through sells it as either one per order or two. i didn't lock the steering wheel when i did mine, but it is recommended.

1. match mark the upper and lower connections before you start.
2. loosen but don't remove the nut/bolt on the top side of the joint.
3. remove the bolt on the lower side of the joint.
4. remove the upper nut/bolt and pull up on the joint to free it from the steering rack.
5. remove the joint from the steering column by pulling forward on it. i had to use a small hammer and screwdriver to free it.
6. replace boots (i ended up using a worm-drive clamp on the center instead of the supplied crimp on ones).
7. reinstall in reverse order.
 
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whitestingray81

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I think you can buy just the boots. Click here.

Wow, that's a GREAT write-up! Do you know what the torque specs are for the bolts? Was it an easy replacement? What do you mean by "match mark the upper and lower connections before you start?"
 

joshcarl

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i couldn't find any torque specs for these joints, i just use the "calibrated arm method." the joint can be reinstalled in more than one position (clocked one way or the other) that could result in the steering wheel not being straight afterwards.

on a 1 to 10 scale of difficulty, i'd give it a 3 or 4.

the part you linked is correct. when i ordered mine, i only received one boot. when i called the supplier, he told me that they have revised the p/n and that it should only come with one, but since his auction said "qty required per vehicle: 1," he sent me another no charge.
 
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whitestingray81

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Much appreciated! I think I'm going to tackle this when I get a floor jack and stands. Sounds pretty straight-forward.
 

joshcarl

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i did initially to see if it would be easier to get to the lower joint bolt that way; it's not.
 

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