SOLVED: 2010 Tahoe LTZ Pulled dash for core R&R, but can't figure out 1 remaining cable

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jared999

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Took me 4 hours to get everything out and 3 to put it back together. I'm not including the time spent fixing my cracked dash or locating the mystery plug connection.
I could have gotten the dash out quicker except I took extra time labeling bags and putting screws and bolts in there for reassembly. =
 
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Honestly, with the correct tools and parts in hand, this is not a difficult job. It's all about having the right tools and parts though. I am going to post a video on youtube describing what to do with the HVAC box and what the actuators are, because I could not find a good one for Tahoes and Yukons. Most of the ones on YT are for silverados and such and the actuators and hvac boxes are different.
 
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89Suburban

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How much did the parts set you back?
 
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GM Evap Core 160 .00
GM Heater Core 115.00
GM Inlet Hose T connection 22.00
GM Hose T connection 22.00
GM Heater Inlet Hose 22.00
GM Drier 32.00
GM Actuator 30-35.00
GM Actuator #2 30-35.00
Continental Tank to Core hose assembly 32.00
1 Gallon coolant (I already had. didn't need entire gallon).
Shop towels (already had)

So about $460 shipped to my door (those prices include tax/shipping).
Rock auto for most of those parts, amazon for one of the T connections.
 
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The videos I saw of the R&R for the heater hoses made it look quite difficult. I decided I was just going to cut those T connections and replace them with new ones, vs. fiddling with getting them off and so forth. Best $44 I ever spent.
My heater hoses were bad so I was already committed to replacing them.

I should add - I replaced a known bad actuator (driver blend door) and a good actuator (mode actuator) but left the other two good working ones.
Reason being the mode is a ***** to get to. The two actuators on top, if they ever go bad are easy to replace so I left them.
 
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89Suburban

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Great info, look forward to your video.
 

89Suburban

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Is doing a job like this something you are having to do soon?
Hopefully not but I love to learn about it just in case **** hits the fan. I got a lot of miles on her.
 
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Hopefully not but I love to learn about it just in case **** hits the fan. I got a lot of miles on her.
Got it. So the best video I have seen so far is this one:

Very similar to what we do for our Tahoes. Only real difference I found was we have 2 T connections (at least I do for my options) under the hood and my heater box was plastic welded and metal screws in other locations. I ended up drilling those wells with a 5/16" bit and then putting bolts in there after I was done to help seal it back.
The hardest thing to do is the get to the nut behind the engine. It's a PITA.
 

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