Simple Wideband O2 Location

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Matthew Jeschke

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I'm getting ready to install my new motor. I don't know I want to cut the exhuast weld, do all that hoopla. I watched Goat Rope Garage. He said to put a O2 bung in the exhaust tubing just after exhaust manifold. Then I hear of some other tuners that just put it at the end of the tailpipe. I understand that will rear leaner (tune will ultimately be a bit richer) but does it make that bit of a difference?

Got an AEM Wideband setup with gauge, and sensor. Also have HP Tuners for truck.

I just want a clean and easy location to mount the thing and run the wiring. Perhaps the rear O2 sensor hole? What have you done and how did it work out?
 

Scottydoggs

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i had a bung welded in pre cat pass side. then i added two pinned wires to the pcm to import the wb signal to the egr, have to turn the egr on in the tune. then disable its settings.
 
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Matthew Jeschke

Matthew Jeschke

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That's what I see some people doing. Curious how far off the tune would be if I just put it further back in the exhaust where it's already wired up for a sensor.
 

fasteddy

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Precat will give you the best A/F reading. Offset from O2 sensor hole.
Where are you going to mount the gauge?
 

Scottydoggs

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ive ran the sensor pre and post cat, but had a high flow cat, made zero difference in its reading. a real cat i could see making it change tho.
 
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Matthew Jeschke

Matthew Jeschke

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Precat will give you the best A/F reading. Offset from O2 sensor hole.
Where are you going to mount the gauge?

Not sure. I'm not really big on the idea of permanently mounting it. A little more hip on temporary mounting the gauge. I like keeping things in factory configuration (or at least following their design philosophy). With that in mind, I ran cabling for a roof light and CB radio. I opened up the factory grommet in firewall (without poking holes in it). Royal PITA, I mean ROYAL PITA. If you ever have to run something, cut another hole in the firewall and put a cable gland in there. The ones for boats are SUPER high quality. If need be, I may do that to at least bring the wiring into the truck. Just wish there was a more user friendly way to set this all up. It's within my means to do it I am just lazy.

ive ran the sensor pre and post cat, but had a high flow cat, made zero difference in its reading. a real cat i could see making it change tho.

Good to know. I have factory cats on my truck. I may have to drop the exhaust and cut that hole then.
 

Scottydoggs

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Not sure. I'm not really big on the idea of permanently mounting it. A little more hip on temporary mounting the gauge. I like keeping things in factory configuration (or at least following their design philosophy). With that in mind, I ran cabling for a roof light and CB radio. I opened up the factory grommet in firewall (without poking holes in it). Royal PITA, I mean ROYAL PITA. If you ever have to run something, cut another hole in the firewall and put a cable gland in there. The ones for boats are SUPER high quality. If need be, I may do that to at least bring the wiring into the truck. Just wish there was a more user friendly way to set this all up. It's within my means to do it I am just lazy.



Good to know. I have factory cats on my truck. I may have to drop the exhaust and cut that hole then.

ive got my sensor mounted near the trans iirc, its the most open area to get a drill to. its supposed to rain all day tomorrow, but i could get a pick for ya Monday.


i dont even see mine any more, you know unless im looing at it.
tahoe wb.jpg


i didnt have the heart to drill a large hole in the A pillar so they are just tucked in down the side of the dash to the fuse box.
wb wires.jpg


that pod is for a Silverado, i painted it. it comes black.
 
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Matthew Jeschke

Matthew Jeschke

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Looks slick! I am not sure I'll ever do it but I also have a C5 corvette. I originally bought HP tuners for it as I was going to go forced induction route. Then realized traction limited shifting to 4th gear is probably enough power haha

That aside, I like the idea of two cars, one tuner. I had been looking at those pods though. I even bought a second A pillar cover incase I wanted to do a gauge pod.

How did you route the cables to power the wideband? You have to power it from the gauge right?
 

Scottydoggs

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power comes from the fuse box. used a add a fuse. sensor wires goes up and over the engine top to a hole in the d/s fire wall, then routed to the a pillar.
 

Scottydoggs

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i put a innovate dual wideband in my ss camaro. had one in my regal too. pretty much if im tuning my cars, they get a wb installed. my camaro is gonna be running meth injection on day soon, so having the wb mounted is a must. the regal was on meth too. nice to see it go lean should the meth pump quit. little bit of a heads up to let off asap lol

004.jpg
 
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Matthew Jeschke

Matthew Jeschke

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What is it like running methane? way more power? I bought parts from a fellow ls addict in tucson who rebuilt a 6.0 iron block, ls3 heads, and was running methane. Was in a gto body.

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Matthew Jeschke

Matthew Jeschke

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Curious, do many people just remove a factory O2 sensor and put in the wideband? I need to crawl under my truck and see if it will fit. I'll be running open loop anyways (without O2 feedback) when I tune.
 

ks03

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That's what I see some people doing. Curious how far off the tune would be if I just put it further back in the exhaust where it's already wired up for a sensor.
If the cats are working, installing after the cats will effect the reading. Some hydrocarbons and oxygen will enter the cat, and hopefully carbon dioxide and water vapor will leave the cat, O2 readings should be higher precat vs post
 

Scottydoggs

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What is it like running methane? way more power? I bought parts from a fellow ls addict in tucson who rebuilt a 6.0 iron block, ls3 heads, and was running methane. Was in a gto body.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

its methanol. its mainly for boosted set ups, it cools the intake air charge making the air denser, and raising the octane rating of your fuel, if your running 93 octane gas and spraying meth your octane is now almost 105, the cooling and the extra octane let you run more boost psi and more timing. if you cant get e85, its the next best thing.

only bad part is you need to lean out the fueling in the tune, then spray the meth, the meth adds to your afr, so it makes up for the leaned out tune, but should the injector clog or the pump quit, your now lean, why i like to have the wb full time when running meth.

used to buy 5 gallons at a time, bout 30-35 a can, then mix 50 blend with distilled water, makes 10 gallons. used to last me a year in my regal.

you can run this stuff straight in your gas tank, but need huge injectors and and real fuel pump that can put out the extra volume you need. not worth it for daily driving.
20210328_155636.jpg
 

muncie21

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Curious, do many people just remove a factory O2 sensor and put in the wideband? I need to crawl under my truck and see if it will fit. I'll be running open loop anyways (without O2 feedback) when I tune.
The factory PCM needs the narrow band to control fueling. The wide band signal is different. There are some wide band setups that send a simulated narrow band signal to the PCM. When I used them a few years back in my SC vette, they weren't that reliable and occasionally would 'hang' which isn't good when your injectors adjust fueling relative to what the O2s are reporting.
 
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Matthew Jeschke

Matthew Jeschke

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The factory PCM needs the narrow band to control fueling. The wide band signal is different. There are some wide band setups that send a simulated narrow band signal to the PCM. When I used them a few years back in my SC vette, they weren't that reliable and occasionally would 'hang' which isn't good when your injectors adjust fueling relative to what the O2s are reporting.
Yeah but I think you turn off the O2 sensors / tell computer to ignore them when collecting data for the tune?

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Matthew Jeschke

Matthew Jeschke

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Thanks everybody for the help! I finally got to the point of running cable for the wideband. I fished it through the factory cable gland (hole in firewall). Royal PITA. Note to self, cut a second cable gland for aftermarket stuff next time. Couple questions...

Where did you guys tap power? I thought maybe I'd use the driver side dash fuse block and do one of those double tap fuses for now... But I always like slick ways to do things that look a bit more "natural or factory".

Any thoughts on cable management? I have a bit of a mess under my hood. For time being it's all zip tiedied up. My goal is to clean the cable management up and bring everything along backside of transmission bellhousing. Any ideas???

- I want to get some sort of nut with loop that will hold the line to that bell housing stud there.

- You can see where I routed along firewall. Would like to get some more cable management loops to organize that there and hold it against firewall.

- I zip tied the connector for O2 sensor to the knock sensor line for now but want to do something better to hold that connector from falling down behind bell housing or worse on exhaust.

cable run.jpg connector.jpg stud.jpg
 

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