Shorted out a computer in the dash?

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DuraYuk

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I feel like the OP isn’t telling the whole story. 2022, but not in warranty? I’m suspect…Powertrain warranty is 5/60k. Not saying it’s not possible that the powertrain is up, but I doubt it…something awry here.
He said he ran something over. Which if tru his insurance company would handle it. But at this point with trying to fix and repair stuff themselves he may be up a river without a paddle.

Even the older generation gm suvs you had to program the modules using the mdi or equivalent. So just plugging things in won't do anything .

I'm also curious why running over something would cause the heater core to leak unless it was just a jarring catastrophe.
 

WalleyeMikeIII

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He said he ran something over. Which if tru his insurance company would handle it. But at this point with trying to fix and repair stuff themselves he may be up a river without a paddle.

Even the older generation gm suvs you had to program the modules using the mdi or equivalent. So just plugging things in won't do anything .

I'm also curious why running over something would cause the heater core to leak unless it was just a jarring catastrophe.
Agree…but if he owns a new ride, he must have insurance. That should cover a tow and a claim would cover the repair…unless the coolant leak is a defect, which would then be warranty…seems the best course is get it to a qualified GM dealer for diagnosis and repair.

Unloading the parts cannon isn’t gonna fix it.
 
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bobenson

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Purchased it salvaged from Copart. Ran fine, but had the coolant leak (Thanks to this forum for helping me figure out it was coolant) Coolant leaked under dash, and then speedometer/cluster stopped turning on, and at that time the car would turn over, but not stay running. Engine code says something about Cluster lost communication. Coolant was all over a few wire connections under the center of the dash down low. I cleaned them and dried them out. But now I am wanting to know if there could be a fuse, or relay that might allow the cluster to start working again?
 

WalleyeMikeIII

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My suggestion is purchase a monthly AllData subscription; so you can see all the schematics, service info, etc. It is not a real expensive thing to subscribe to as a consumer. Give its a salvage vehicle, you probably need this service info...I am not familiar enough w/ the vehicle architecture and electrical system to be able to help you know what might turn the cluster on. But I do know this...virtually all the modules (microcomputers on the vehicle comm bus) require vehicle specific programming, and that can only be accomplished by a GM dealer or some licensed 3rd party folks...so without some sort of access to that stuff, swapping parts is going to be futile
 

Doubeleive

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Purchased it salvaged from Copart. Ran fine, but had the coolant leak (Thanks to this forum for helping me figure out it was coolant) Coolant leaked under dash, and then speedometer/cluster stopped turning on, and at that time the car would turn over, but not stay running. Engine code says something about Cluster lost communication. Coolant was all over a few wire connections under the center of the dash down low. I cleaned them and dried them out. But now I am wanting to know if there could be a fuse, or relay that might allow the cluster to start working again?
have it towed to the dealer, you still have warranty, the dealer has no idea if it is salvaged or not unless you open your mouth and tell them
they are not asking to see your title nor registration, they go by the vin and mileage. period.
 
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bobenson

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have it towed to the dealer, you still have warranty, the dealer has no idea if it is salvaged or not unless you open your mouth and tell them
they are not asking to see your title nor registration, they go by the vin and mileage. period.
Its still obvious its salvaged, damage to fender bumper, etc.
 

Doubeleive

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if you are going to attempt the repair yourself you will likely have to pull the entire dash, drain the coolant, replace the heater core and put it all back together, the if you can determine the electronic component that is bad it has to be programmed to the vin by the dealer. there is no way around that.
 

Stbentoak

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Sounds like potentially a vehicle from hurricane Ian in Florida. They have taken cars in in various states from submerged over the roofs, to barely getting the bottom floor pan wet. There is a potential, however a slight potential, you may get quite a vehicle for quite a low price.
But even if you do, you have to be prepared to put anywhere from $500-$15,000 into it to make it roadworthy. I’m here in Florida and I’ve seen these cars go on trucks every day. Some of them I would seriously like to trace down and bid on. Others you know, they are just plain screwed and it doesn’t matter what it is, you couldn’t throw enough stuff at it to fix it.
 
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bobenson

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Vehicle wasn't from florida. It was in an accident in New Jersey.
 
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