Service Stabilitrack light on

[randyg]

2011 5.3L Yukon 4WD. Now the Service Stabilitrack light is coming on, sometimes. Not every start. I use a Range AFM disabler. Recent things that have changed: I started towing a travel trailer. It never came on before that. I hit the off button a couple of times by accident trying to turn off the rear camera. I have 115k on the truck. Front brakes were done at 108k and now seem to pulse sometimes coming to a stop. New plugs at 104k. Light only started when I began towing. First thought: take out the Range device for a while. Open to other ideas. Hoping it's not a huge $$$ item.

 

[wsteele]

A misfire can trigger that message, even before you get a CEL.

Do you have access to a scan tool? Maybe see if you have any DTC’s? Also take a look and see if you have a large number of misfires on one or more cylinders.

I personally would not remove the range device.

 

[randyg]

I don't have access to a code device. Engine seems to be running very smoothly. I will seek out a mechanic who can look for codes and tell me what's going on. I suspect it has to do with towing since that's the most recent variable. Thanks for your reply!

 

[Doubeleive]

stabiltrac is most likely a shock sensor or ride height sensor, you need a tech2 or similar capable scan tool like a snap-on that can read the code.
if there is no stored code you may have to scan it while the indicator is on. you can visually inspect all 4 corners and if you have air ride be sure the rear shocks are inflating and holding air, at your mileage if they have not been replaced yet then they are probably shot, they tend to start going out around 80k.

 

[randyg]

stabiltrac is most likely a shock sensor or ride height sensor, you need a tech2 or similar capable scan tool like a snap-on that can read the code.
if there is no stored code you may have to scan it while the indicator is on. you can visually inspect all 4 corners and if you have air ride be sure the rear shocks are inflating and holding air, at your mileage if they have not been replaced yet then they are probably shot, they tend to start going out around 80k.

Thanks. Yeah, the shocks are due for sure but I am getting ready to sell and upgrade soon, so hoping to solve this issue without a major investment. I will search out the right scan tool/mechanic to find out the cause. Thanks for your suggestions.

 

[Doubeleive]

Thanks. Yeah, the shocks are due for sure but I am getting ready to sell and upgrade soon, so hoping to solve this issue without a major investment. I will search out the right scan tool/mechanic to find out the cause. Thanks for your suggestions.

if the air ride is retained to replace the rears with arnott's it's about $500, plus a air pump which usually burns out because of the bad shocks that's another $250, front shocks can be replaced if the coils are compressed those are about $180 each so a full around replacement it's about a grand.

 

[randyg]

if the air ride is retained to replace the rears with arnott's it's about $500, plus a air pump which usually burns out because of the bad shocks that's another $250, front shocks can be replaced if the coils are compressed those are about $180 each so a full around replacement it's about a grand.

thanks. helpful.

 

[randyg]

ADDITIONAL INFO: I just thought of something that might be affecting the Stabilitrack issue. I recently bought a trailer and the dealer found that the trailer brake wires were not hooked up from the factory (which I hear is not unusual). So, they hooked them up...maybe to my second battery, an AGM battery on the driver's side front corner which runs my Dometic Fridge/Freezer in the back, and has a Blue Sea Battery Isolator. I never thought of it, but those wires should probably be hooked to the chassis battery on the other side of the engine. Anyone have any thoughts on this? I know grounding is important for the Stabilitrack to work properly. Thanks in advance...

 

[Doubeleive]

ADDITIONAL INFO: I just thought of something that might be affecting the Stabilitrack issue. I recently bought a trailer and the dealer found that the trailer brake wires were not hooked up from the factory (which I hear is not unusual). So, they hooked them up...maybe to my second battery, an AGM battery on the driver's side front corner which runs my Dometic Fridge/Freezer in the back, and has a Blue Sea Battery Isolator. I never thought of it, but those wires should probably be hooked to the chassis battery on the other side of the engine. Anyone have any thoughts on this? I know grounding is important for the Stabilitrack to work properly. Thanks in advance...

neither, there is 2 studs on the outer front edge of the underhood fuse box, what place did you have do the work? every gm suv and pickup has the same studs and the wires are already there from the factory they just have to be hooked up.
this guy goes over it at 3:10

 

[randyg]

neither, there is 2 studs on the outer front edge of the underhood fuse box, what place did you have do the work? every gm suv and pickup has the same studs and the wires are already there from the factory they just have to be hooked up.
this guy goes over it at 3:10

Thanks for the video. I had searched but didn't come up with one that showed those two studs. The dealership unrolled one of the wires (I assume the brake controller because I've towed U-hauls before and the lights were working) and hooked it up when they installed the hitch. So, all that looks like it was done right, and the Stabilitrack light still comes on intermittently. I have an Appt with the Chevy dealer Friday to figure out what's going on. I was hoping it was something with my 2nd battery, but it seems that's not the culprit after all. Thanks again, very helpful!