Self Leveling rear shocks - questions

[bxg]

I believe my rear shocks have had it (156,000 miles and never changed) I thought I had "autoride" but in reading several posts, it looks like that includes air shocks on all 4 wheels. I replaced the front shocks recently and they had no air or electrical connections.

I looked at the original window sticker (which I kept for some reason) and it says my vehicle has "Self-Leveling Rear Shocks".

Does anyone know whether these are air shocks with an associated compressor or are they just fancy "multi-stage" fluidic shocks?

Can anyone recommend a good "standard" rear shock that I can replace these with? I don't tow much but often load up the cargo area and with multiple passengers

If "Self-Leveling" means that I have air shocks with a compressor, how can I disable the error message that I am sure I will get when I disconnect the air and sensor connectors? (and, where is the compressor itself located - might as well remove that too)

thanks!

 

[NathanJax]

Is they are self leveling you would have a compressor and you would have had some wires going to the top of your front shocks.

A lot of people with 00-06 like the Bilstein HD shocks.

 

[livingez_123]

There really needs to a separate thread for all air ride issues, the answers are here, just search the forums, and you will find the answers. I know I have posted them many times.

 

[kses123]

Check your glovebox. Is the RPO code ZW7 or Z55? ZW7 is self-levelling contained inside the shock. Z55 is autoride with a separate compressor etc.

 

[Cobra]

Not all self leveling shocks have a compressor
My front shocks are regular and the rear are Nivomat self leveling shocks.
They run about $300 each from the dealer. No electric conections. I guess part of the towing package.
Here is more info.
http://www.shockwarehouse.com/news/gm-suv-suspension-decoder.cfm

 

[tekkitan]

There really needs to a separate thread for all air ride issues, the answers are here, just search the forums, and you will find the answers. I know I have posted them many times.

Yeah but this isn't an air ride issue. It's self-leveling shocks. People need to realize the difference

My research on these a few years ago since I have them have concluded like mentioned that these are expensive to replace. Other people have taken them out and just replaced them (usually with Bilstein HD) with the right springs.

 

[bxg]

Thanks - I DID search this issue, but didn't find an answer. According to the label in my glove box, I have the ZW7 - good news is that I don't need to worry about air or compressor or whatever. Bad news is that the replacement (self leveling) shocks are REALLY expensive, even after market.

But thanks much for the information!!!

 

[ts0293]

Replaced front Autoride at 100,000 miles. Rear?

Lived with "service ride control" light for a couple of years and didn't think much off it. Trying to stave off the itch to buy 2015, so decided to have it fixed. Dealer job, about $1200 with labor (front). I must admit that now that the system is running again, I can tell you what it does. The damping is especially effective during cornering. The truck does not lean any more when cornering. My son had compared the ride to a mini-van when the system was down, but that has largely disappeared.

My question is whether the rear shocks participate in the auto-damping or if the are just standard (air) shocks. Either way, anyone replace the rears with factory-equivalent, and do you think I will get another noticeable improvement in ride quality?

 

[z0lt3c]

Autoride rear shocks are also electrically dampened in addition to auto leveled. However, loosing electrical dampening in the rear, the ride quality differential is much less vs loosing electrical dampening in the front. Body roll is greatly reduced w/ the electrically dampened shocks, but given the price, other options also exist to reduce body roll.

"Self-Leveling" usually refers to the Nivomat type shocks that do not use an air compressor to auto-level but instead use mechanics inside the shock to maintain a desired height. These shocks only automatically level, they do not electrically dampen like with the autoride system. Replacing these shocks w/ aftermarket options will usually result in the loss of the leveling feature but little impact to ride quality.

 

[UGA Tahoe]

I changed mine to the bilsteins and really like it. I also lowered my truck though and sometime soon I plan on adding the airbag helper springs for the rear.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

 

[ttedeschi]

I had the ZW7 code also I and had the nivomat self leveling rear shocks. I finally replaced them with bilsteins which also required the stiffer bilstein springs. I purchased the shocks and springs for less than the price of one nivomat.

Sent from my GT-N8013 using Tapatalk

---------- Post added at 05:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:50 PM ----------

Springs were bilstein 199021. Took a lot of research to find the right ones

Sent from my GT-N8013 using Tapatalk

 

[ts0293]

An update: after paying the dealer $1250 to replace the front autoride (Z55) shocks, I got a quote from a chain repair shop for $589 to replace the rears. When I went in, they had trouble figuring out what to order; I helped them figure it out and then got a work order to sign for $1200! Price for the shocks was $499 each. So, I left.

I ordered the part from Amazon (Monroe autoride rear strut - has both electric-controlled damping (the autoride function) as well as air connector for the auto-leveling function). Cost was $231.50 each. I paid another mechanic $220 for 2 hours labor to install.

I know the temptation is to convert away from autoride and I cannot say how well that works. I can say this: after replacing all four (and only after doing the rear ones) the truck drives like new! I remember when I bought the thing that the ride seemed like a much smaller vehicle -- because the damping function has the car competently under control and eliminates or significantly reduces body roll during turns. It was a lot of money, but compared to resuming car payments for a new truck, not so bad. Truck has 99,000 miles and I am sprucing it up to get at least 99,000 more. So far, the plan is working.

 

[tekkitan]

Again, autoride is not the same as self-leveling rear shocks.

 

[96Taho]

The heavy duty bilstiens are a great shock for the hoes.....even at my local 4-wheel drives store the techs said alot of the other ones get alotta hype but the bilstiens are the best all around riding shock they have seen
obviously i'm referring to on road use.....