Running board issues

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petethepug

Michael
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Had a chance to take a look at ur other threads. If trans overheated it’s something you’ll want the dealer to address while you have the factory Golden Ticket (warranty). Leave the part out about towing something though. That cooked trans fluid must be replaced, preferably under warranty. Documenting an overheat now may save you a huge bill later.

Get the magneride issues resolved under the extended warranty? Are you under a CPO or service contract?





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formula271

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i will reiterate the lube-the-hinges suggestion.

2015 Suburban LTZ with retractable boards. The p-side first started acting up (it gets cycled ~1/3 as many times as the d-side). Some lube spray stoped the issue.

hopefully, i'm not just masking a bigger issue :eek:
 

VTHokieT

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Just my wife and I. Seems to be getting more and more frequent. Shut the door and you hear the board retract, then go back out, and try again. Ends up staying extended.


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I actually had this happen to me this weekend! I shut the door and heard them retract, reversed and as I drove forward, I could hear them extend and retract again. Definitely keeping my eye on it as well as this post!
 

Reebok59

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I actually had this happen to me this weekend! I shut the door and heard them retract, reversed and as I drove forward, I could hear them extend and retract again. Definitely keeping my eye on it as well as this post!

Mine has done the exact same thing 5 or 6 times over the past two years I have owned my 08 LTZ. Definitely going to watch this thread and routinely lube the brackets.
 

UplevelDave

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As stated by everyone else, lubrication is the key. I picked up a "barn find" 2008 Tahoe LTZ that had been sitting for 5 years and the running boards would try to retract and then stall unless I helped it with my foot. All it took to fix was a liberal hosing of the moving parts with spray lube and since I have a Tech 2, I just "exercised" the running boards, commanding them in and out like 15-20 times and that was it, they worked great ever since. They are designed to stop trying to extend/retract if a certain level of resistance is felt, just like an auto down/up power window. If you live in an area with snow/salt, you REALLY want to stay on top of maintenance for them, because they are expensive to fix!
 

zbburke

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‘15 XL Denali owner here. I experienced similar issue with the retarcatable steps that you describe. Very intermittent and not consistent at all. Sometimes would go weeks with normal operation, then it would occur.

My last oil change I mentioned it to them, they libricated all the moving “pivot” points (free of charge) and they’ve operated normal without issue ever sense.
Yup, same here, on our '20 Yukon Denali. I sprayed a bit of WD-40 on the pivot points, and BAM!, it's as good as new!

We're still under warrant, so we'll probably take the car in this weekend to get it checked anyways. But it looks like it just needed a bit of lube.
 

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