Rise of the Turd-burban

[05Single]

@05Single had some Nissan rims on his Tahoe too. He was able to make some homemade center caps out of reflectors.
I do like the tbird idea tho.

Made another set for my buddy , he has Nissan 20s on his obs Yukon. They look good. I have pics somewhere.

 

[iamdub]

That’s the BETTER carpet of the two!

Since you already have a pressure washer, blast that carpet when you start mix-matching the interiors.

 

[iamdub]

I dropped the dern thing and have a crack next to the air vent hole on the passenger side, but I think a little epoxy will fix it fine. I need to “rebuild” a couple of the side mounting tabs that broke off too. I’ll either build them out of JB weld, or may try plastic welding some pieces on.

Nooj

I'm a fan of J-B Weld Plastic Bonder

 

[Nooj]

Sound quality in the turd is…. Lacking.
It has pioneer speakers in the doors, but they’re still fed through the factory amp. I plan on doing the bypass to get a better range through the door speakers.
As for right now though- I’m getting no action out of my tattered sub in the rear. Should it at least be trying to move? I get sound from the tweeter on that side (but not the opposite side).

And then there’s this


I found that connected into the orange wire coming from the factory amp, here



Any idea what this horse crap is?
Where would the factory sub likely be bypassed, if someone had used a separate sub and bypassed the factory one?

Nooj

 

[TollKeeper]

Probably a power filter would be my guess.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Probably a power filter would be my guess.

Is that the same as a noise suppressor?

 

[Sparksalot]

Is that the same as a noise suppressor?

Yep

 

[Nooj]

That makes sense, seeing that it’s in the 12v power wire and there’s no other wires involved.

 

[Nooj]

Turns out the reason I had no sound from the rear sub is because it was crap.



I reinstalled the power filter thing, and installed my new sub, which is the MB Quart Discus ds1-204.



I now have bass!! Sounds much better, but I’m still going to do the crossover bypass for the door speakers when my parts come in tomorrow.

I caught hell trying to remount the jack and equipment back in the rear panel (they were just all laying in there, rattling about!). Found out I’m missing the stinking hook and knob to hold the wheel chocks to the Jack! That’s ok, I can fab that up. Another day, though.

You ever taken apart a mirror control switch? Here’s what it looks like




Normally the traces on the circuit boards are the thin foil lines, but on this one it looked like the thin lines were the gaps between the conductors. I sprayed it with contact cleaner and gently scrubbed away tiny bits of unknown crusty substances between the conductors and between the solder joints. I also slightly bent the tiny fingers on the left/right selector switch outward so they’d make good contact. And VIOLA!! My power mirrors now work!
I wonder if it was bridging, or just crusted over with stuff, not allowing current flow when the pads made contact, or if it was just the L/R selector… The World May never know! Either way, they work now. Plus one for the ol me!

Tomorrow- road trip to pick up the parts car, using the un-tagged turd to haul it with!! Lord help me… I hope it makes it.

Nooj

 

[Tonyrodz]

Turns out the reason I had no sound from the rear sub is because it was crap.

View attachment 379813

I reinstalled the power filter thing, and installed my new sub, which is the MB Quart Discus ds1-204.

View attachment 379816

I now have bass!! Sounds much better, but I’m still going to do the crossover bypass for the door speakers when my parts come in tomorrow.

I caught hell trying to remount the jack and equipment back in the rear panel (they were just all laying in there, rattling about!). Found out I’m missing the stinking hook and knob to hold the wheel chocks to the Jack! That’s ok, I can fab that up. Another day, though.

You ever taken apart a mirror control switch? Here’s what it looks like

View attachment 379817
View attachment 379818

Normally the traces on the circuit boards are the thin foil lines, but on this one it looked like the thin lines were the gaps between the conductors. I sprayed it with contact cleaner and gently scrubbed away tiny bits of unknown crusty substances between the conductors and between the solder joints. I also slightly bent the tiny fingers on the left/right selector switch outward so they’d make good contact. And VIOLA!! My power mirrors now work!
I wonder if it was bridging, or just crusted over with stuff, not allowing current flow when the pads made contact, or if it was just the L/R selector… The World May never know! Either way, they work now. Plus one for the ol me!

Tomorrow- road trip to pick up the parts car, using the un-tagged turd to haul it with!! Lord help me… I hope it makes it.

Nooj

Hopefully it has the extra parts for the jack. I love parts cars!
Is your new sub an 8" in the original sub box? Was that sub pricey?