RESOLVED - The 6.2L Dilemma: To invest in new shoes/shocks, or pull the plug? (Advice needed from the pros)

[randeez]

Clapped out pos, definitely trade out

 

[Joseph Garcia]

LR135822

When you post the VIN for @915_Tahoe , you need to ping him in the same post, so that he knows that someone on this Forum has reached out to him.

 

[915_Tahoe]

Frnt L/R
Gm# 84977478

Rear L/R
Gm# 84176675

 

[olyelr]

No way in hell i would trade up a perfectly good vehicle like yours for the new crap that they are now selling.

Just keep maintaining it like you have and reap the benefits of having a vehicle that you know works well, looks great and has been well kept. Hell, even with a fairly major repair (which is highly unlikely with its current mileage) you would still be money ahead over buying the new overpriced junk they are selling today.

 

[Sundancer]

When you post the VIN for @915_Tahoe , you need to ping him in the same post, so that he knows that someone on this Forum has reached out to him.

Over night I had another issue pop up. Left drivers side Brembo Caliper stuck. The car is in the shop of a good friend and he says it needs a total replacement but they only sell them in pairs. The cost factor is crazy (close to 2K). I AM SO DONE.

 

[OR VietVet]

Over night I had another issue pop up. Left drivers side Brembo Caliper stuck. The car is in the shop of a good friend and he says it needs a total replacement but they only sell them in pairs. The cost factor is crazy (close to 2K). I AM SO DONE.

I still have not heard what is wrong and causing you to say all shocks are needed....You can skip them and afford the "safety" concern of the brakes. Personally, I would never ever do one caliper or one rotor at a time, so doing pairs checks out to me. If the friend's shop is at a dealer, then the cost will reflect that. If is an independent shop, the state location reflects that cost. What brand of Calipers and are they new or reman calipers. Replacement requires, calipers, pads, hardware, should also do rotors and the labor. If a shop is doing all that, the cost reflects that. What is a new vehicle gonna cost you?

Again, the shocks are not typically NEEDED at 62k miles. You have not addressed my question about that. BUT, if you are DONE, so be it.

 

[olyelr]

Over night I had another issue pop up. Left drivers side Brembo Caliper stuck. The car is in the shop of a good friend and he says it needs a total replacement but they only sell them in pairs. The cost factor is crazy (close to 2K). I AM SO DONE.

Fixing the brakes (and even the shocks if they are indeed needed) will sure as hell be a lot cheaper than trading in for a new rig.

Is it the cost of the repairs that you will need to do that bothers you, or is it more about the issue with downtime for the repairs and the headache of wondering what is going to be next? Because i am telling you without a doubt, you will be money ahead just repairing.

 

[Sundancer]

Fixing the brakes (and even the shocks if they are indeed needed) will sure as hell be a lot cheaper than trading in for a new rig.

Is it the cost of the repairs that you will need to do that bothers you, or is it more about the issue with downtime for the repairs and the headache of wondering what is going to be next? Because i am telling you without a doubt, you will be money ahead just repairing.

it's the fact that things are breaking down quicker than expected which makes me feel uneasy about keeping this thing.

 

[Sundancer]

I still have not heard what is wrong and causing you to say all shocks are needed....You can skip them and afford the "safety" concern of the brakes. Personally, I would never ever do one caliper or one rotor at a time, so doing pairs checks out to me. If the friend's shop is at a dealer, then the cost will reflect that. If is an independent shop, the state location reflects that cost. What brand of Calipers and are they new or reman calipers. Replacement requires, calipers, pads, hardware, should also do rotors and the labor. If a shop is doing all that, the cost reflects that. What is a new vehicle gonna cost you?

Again, the shocks are not typically NEEDED at 62k miles. You have not addressed my question about that. BUT, if you are DONE, so be it.

hey sorry but sometimes my long work hours just dont allow me the time to keep up with the sound advice from this forum. My front left shock is leaking as pointed out when I went to rotate the tires 2 weeks ago. The ride seems somewhat rougher than usual on potholes also. As far as the caliper goes, after careful evaluation, it was determined by the mechanic that the brake hose needed replacement because of a leak. The hose was replaced by OEM part from the dealer and test driven at a slow speed, then normal speed. Everything seems to be fine at the moment.

 

[OR VietVet]

hey sorry but sometimes my long work hours just dont allow me the time to keep up with the sound advice from this forum. My front left shock is leaking as pointed out when I went to rotate the tires 2 weeks ago. The ride seems somewhat rougher than usual on potholes also. As far as the caliper goes, after careful evaluation, it was determined by the mechanic that the brake hose needed replacement because of a leak. The hose was replaced by OEM part from the dealer and test driven at a slow speed, then normal speed. Everything seems to be fine at the moment.

Us members should have thought of a perhaps collapsed hose. BUT a leaking brake hose will never cause a brake feeling like a caliper is locking up. The two conditions just don't correlate. Perhaps the mechanic mentioned that he misdiagnosed. A "stuck caliper" can be caused by a piston that is stuck or a caliper that is not moving on the hardware. Typically those two conditions will have a different brake pedal feel. The leaking brake hose would be a whole different feel as well and fluid would be low. Maybe, just maybe, an assumption was made too quickly and further investigation found the true source of concern.

Where was the hose leaking from? Rubbed through? Better find the source of the rub? Leaking at the hose/fittings connections? May want to do both front hoses? Just sayin'.

 

[Stbentoak]

it's the fact that things are breaking down quicker than expected which makes me feel uneasy about keeping this thing.

This is the conundrum when vehicles start getting old. You think you fixed something and you think you may be good for even a year or two or three, yet three weeks later another reasonably expensive unrelated problem pops up. Once you've done this two or three times in a row, you're like when does this end? And am I throwing good money after a bad horse? Then you start looking at new or newer vehicles and you see that you get features you'd like to have and you figure out that hey it's finally time.
My barometer is I can usually shoulder one big fix after warranty and still feel OK about it. But if another one pops up shortly afterwards, then I start thinking about moving on. The Expense coupled with repair time and vehicle out of service with no loaner. Not to mention the fact nobody can just get you in like tomorrow. Many times, a dealership says hey we can get it in in three weeks Meanwhile you are down. Mostly can't deal with that....

 

[olyelr]

This is the conundrum when vehicles start getting old. You think you fixed something and you think you may be good for even a year or two or three, yet three weeks later another reasonably expensive unrelated problem pops up. Once you've done this two or three times in a row, you're like when does this end? And am I throwing good money after a bad horse? Then you start looking at new or newer vehicles and you see that you get features you'd like to have and you figure out that hey it's finally time.
My barometer is I can usually shoulder one big fix after warranty and still feel OK about it. But if another one pops up shortly afterwards, then I start thinking about moving on. The Expense coupled with repair time and vehicle out of service with no loaner. Not to mention the fact nobody can just get you in like tomorrow. Many times, a dealership says hey we can get it in in three weeks Meanwhile you are down. Mostly can't deal with that....

True. But buying a brand new one and having all that happen kinda sucks too (rare, but happens).

 

[GeneralTahoe]

I work in a GM dealership and I'd say keep it. But I never had to get all 4 shocks replaced at once so I'm really curious on why they have to be done? Also you've got a good engine. The disabler won't really affect reliability of the lifter. In my experience, shorter intervals for the oil change will do much more to help your lifters (around 5k miles per oil change). Also, if you do maintenance at your dealership, I would check if they offer BG or Wynn's treatments and additives. Not really for what they do to protect but more for the coverage that comes with it. If a lifter failure or big costly repairs are what scares you from keeping your Tahoe, this could really be a great option to have protection in case something happens. Doing engine flushes and adding additives will give you a couple thousands of coverage in case something happens. I have a 6.2L 2021 with the L87 and that's the route I took because I really love my truck enven if the engine does have a good reputation. But I got lifetime warranty as long as I keep the maintenance going with Wynn's products

 

[CMoore711]

Over night I had another issue pop up. Left drivers side Brembo Caliper stuck. The car is in the shop of a good friend and he says it needs a total replacement but they only sell them in pairs. The cost factor is crazy (close to 2K). I AM SO DONE.

Glass half empty type a guy?

What side? Passenger or driver side?

Front left driver side?

https://ebay.io/m/yJ87I0

Brand new $599 with pads

https://ebay.io/m/4lkG8F

https://ebay.io/m/jSUii8

https://ebay.io/m/9J468v

Whole kit, brand new, Welles’s than $2K

https://ebay.io/m/x5fdhY

Explore your options better, you can absolutely buy a single caliper by itself if you spend a little time pursuing a solution instead of throwing your arms up in the air.

 

[915_Tahoe]

Over night I had another issue pop up. Left drivers side Brembo Caliper stuck. The car is in the shop of a good friend and he says it needs a total replacement but they only sell them in pairs. The cost factor is crazy (close to 2K). I AM SO DONE.

Brembo caliper is sold separately

$1,300
Lh gm# 84332704

 

[OR VietVet]

I work in a GM dealership and I'd say keep it. But I never had to get all 4 shocks replaced at once so I'm really curious on why they have to be done? Also you've got a good engine. The disabler won't really affect reliability of the lifter. In my experience, shorter intervals for the oil change will do much more to help your lifters (around 5k miles per oil change). Also, if you do maintenance at your dealership, I would check if they offer BG or Wynn's treatments and additives. Not really for what they do to protect but more for the coverage that comes with it. If a lifter failure or big costly repairs are what scares you from keeping your Tahoe, this could really be a great option to have protection in case something happens. Doing engine flushes and adding additives will give you a couple thousands of coverage in case something happens. I have a 6.2L 2021 with the L87 and that's the route I took because I really love my truck enven if the engine does have a good reputation. But I got lifetime warranty as long as I keep the maintenance going with Wynn's products

This is the conundrum when vehicles start getting old. You think you fixed something and you think you may be good for even a year or two or three, yet three weeks later another reasonably expensive unrelated problem pops up. Once you've done this two or three times in a row, you're like when does this end? And am I throwing good money after a bad horse? Then you start looking at new or newer vehicles and you see that you get features you'd like to have and you figure out that hey it's finally time.
My barometer is I can usually shoulder one big fix after warranty and still feel OK about it. But if another one pops up shortly afterwards, then I start thinking about moving on. The Expense coupled with repair time and vehicle out of service with no loaner. Not to mention the fact nobody can just get you in like tomorrow. Many times, a dealership says hey we can get it in in three weeks Meanwhile you are down. Mostly can't deal with that....

Been seeing lots of info about dealership techs/mechanics are leaving the dealerships, in droves, because of the flat rate warranty time pay difference/rip off. Hearing that the better techs are leaving to work at independent shops. That helps create some of the long delays for repairs.

But, I also hear about techs/mechanics everywhere, leaving the industry because of poor pay scales and the money they have to put out for their own tools. I am not talking about wrenches, ratchets, sockets, extensions, pliers....etc. I am talking about specialty tools to help make the repair job easier and quicker. Manufacturers are building the vehicles so that hopefully the dealer is the only place that has the specialty tools or/and are asking states to pass laws that prohibit vehicle owners to work on their own vehicles when are newer and within a window, after the warranty runs out.

If I advertised, I could stay busy in my driveway 5-7 days a week and do just fine $$$$$.

 

[Sundancer]

Glass half empty type a guy?

What side? Passenger or driver side?

Front left driver side?

https://ebay.io/m/yJ87I0

Brand new $599 with pads

https://ebay.io/m/4lkG8F

https://ebay.io/m/jSUii8

https://ebay.io/m/9J468v

Whole kit, brand new, Welles’s than $2K

https://ebay.io/m/x5fdhY

Explore your options better, you can absolutely buy a single caliper by itself if you spend a little time pursuing a solution instead of throwing your arms up in the air.

thank you, issue has been resolved and your opinion taken into consideration.