Replacing Bose amp while retaining the stock HU in 09 Esky...can it be done?

[rgb129]

I am running in circles trying to find out if the stock HU controls volume, fader, etc via the low levels to the amp or does it use bus communication for that? This is on a 2009 Esky.

I *hate* Bose. I am dumbfounded that GM can add DSP functions like time alignment, but can't spend a few more bucks on quality speakers/amp. I have a lot of experience with Bose on a previous car (Infiniti M35x) and had to use the speaker levels in that car. I really do not want to have to tap into the speaker levels after the amp and just get the low levels from the HU. It would be sweet if I can retain the funactionality of the HU while yanking the "Blose" amp out.

I will document this whole project on here as well.

I am doing a complete bose replacement using a RF 3sixty.3 DSP with a 3-way front stage, 10 inch sub, and some coax speakers in the rear doors.

Front tweeters: Vifa OX20SC00-04 3/4" Fabric Dome Tweeter (~6000hz+)
Front mids: Vifa TC9FD-18-08 3-1/2" Full Range (~300Hz-6000Hz)
Front midbass: Exodus Anarchy 6-1/2" (~60Hz-300Hz)

Rear doors: TBD coax 6-1/2"

Sub: Alpine SWR-10D2


Tweeters, mids, and rear door coaxs will be driven by a HiFonics series VII Aphrodite. The midbass Anarchy's will be driven by a HiFonics series VIII Zeus.

The tweeters and mids will go into the sails. I am hoping I can squeeze those Anarchy's into the stock door location with a baffle bolted to the inner skin and still clear the door panel grill. Doors will be "sealed" and matted.

The crossover freqs are arbitrary at this point. I will certainly fiddle with those once everything is up and running.

 

[marionso14]

get a JL Audio cleansweep. it takes the signal from the HU and then turns it into an unadulterated, clean, flat signal that goes to your amp so you can adjust to your liking

 

[rgb129]

get a JL Audio cleansweep. it takes the signal from the HU and then turns it into an unadulterated, clean, flat signal that goes to your amp so you can adjust to your liking

The 3Sixty.3 I have does that as well, but they both only flatten the EQ. The problem is it is not a clean signal as you suggest...it has any noise that the Bose amp introduces (and there is some) which will then be amplified by my install. I want to completly bypass the POS Bose.

I took the Bose amp apart to see if I might be able to tap into any of the signals before amplification, but it is crammed into a multilayer PCB.

 

[yates ™]

Bus communication.

 

[marionso14]

The 3Sixty.3 I have does that as well, but they both only flatten the EQ. The problem is it is not a clean signal as you suggest...it has any noise that the Bose amp introduces (and there is some) which will then be amplified by my install. I want to completly bypass the POS Bose.

I took the Bose amp apart to see if I might be able to tap into any of the signals before amplification, but it is crammed into a multilayer PCB.

If you tap into the signal wires BEFORE the Bose amp, you will have the original signal coming from the Head unit. NOT from the Bose amp.

the signal goes from the HU then to amp, then to speakers... Catch the signal before the amp and it will be fine. I have done this on a Tahoe and it is a clear signal

 

[rgb129]

If you tap into the signal wires BEFORE the Bose amp, you will have the original signal coming from the Head unit. NOT from the Bose amp.

the signal goes from the HU then to amp, then to speakers... Catch the signal before the amp and it will be fine. I have done this on a Tahoe and it is a clear signal

Please reread my first post and actual question. What you just suggested is what I want to do, but my question is does the volume, fader, etc happen in the HU or the amp? I fear that it is what Yates stated and done in the Bose amp via bus communication from the HU. That means I would need to tap into the signals prior to the amplification ckts...which I decided is not feasible after looking at the board construction. That leaves me with tapping into the speaker levels which is my worst case scenario.

 

[Deephaven]

I realize this is from July, but I just picked my Escalade tonight and searched to find a solution. Your quest is the closest too mine. Curious if you gave up, found wires to tap into to get what you need or hacked the bus and utilized it somehow. If you happen to have hacked it with an Arduino or the like I'd LOVE to know what you did.

Was hoping I could live with the stock system. The control interface is nice actually, the acoustic output not at all to my liking.

Also wondering how the Anarchy fit. Have a pair of Extremis which are rather similar although if I could move it up to an 8" without too much trouble I'll do that.

 

[rgb129]

I have up on the replacement for now. I am using the speaker lines coming out of the amp to the 3sixty.

Eventaully, I will pull it all out for a custom tablet install at some point in the future.

Here is progress of the install on the caddy forum:
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forum...07/416049-partial-audio-gut-build-thread.html

I haven't updated it in a bit. Basically, the doors are tough...I am doing a custom fiberglass enclosure...there is not a lot of room to clear the window track and I am going to have some fun building the baffle to allow that clearance. I will update that thread after the holidays with more pics and details.

 

[Deephaven]

Thanks for the response, was really hoping there was a way around using a 3sixty or the like. I'll be watching your thread and will make one myself when I get around to finally doing something!

 

[Ponchonutty]

I have up on the replacement for now. I am using the speaker lines coming out of the amp to the 3sixty.

Eventaully, I will pull it all out for a custom tablet install at some point in the future.

Here is progress of the install on the caddy forum:
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forum...07/416049-partial-audio-gut-build-thread.html

I haven't updated it in a bit. Basically, the doors are tough...I am doing a custom fiberglass enclosure...there is not a lot of room to clear the window track and I am going to have some fun building the baffle to allow that clearance. I will update that thread after the holidays with more pics and details.

Don't mind me asking but if you are going through all this trouble to upgrade everything, why not ditch the factory HU? The sad thing on these GM vehicles is the outputs from the factory deck are just as bad as what comes out of the Bose. In my Saturn Outlook I used the Cleansweep and although I was much happier than what it was before I still wasn't totally satisfied. Pulled that factory unit out and installed a Pioneer AVIC deck and never looked back. Heck, I liked it so much I pulled that deck and put it in my Denali. Could not believe how much better the BOSE system sounded with just a head unit swap.

 

[Deephaven]

Don't mind me asking but if you are going through all this trouble to upgrade everything, why not ditch the factory HU? The sad thing on these GM vehicles is the outputs from the factory deck are just as bad as what comes out of the Bose. In my Saturn Outlook I used the Cleansweep and although I was much happier than what it was before I still wasn't totally satisfied. Pulled that factory unit out and installed a Pioneer AVIC deck and never looked back. Heck, I liked it so much I pulled that deck and put it in my Denali. Could not believe how much better the BOSE system sounded with just a head unit swap.

New units are can bus controlled so a swap isn't really feasible. Obviously you can replace it all which may be my course of action, but the whole basis here was to see if there was a way of hacking into the signal to get out what is necessary.

Also pretty sure that a replacement headunit wouldn't provide any gains on the newer systems IF you managed to talk the bus to keep the controls comparable. I haven't yet measured the outputs for complete verification as my nav crapped so yanking it all may be my approach instead of trying to continue to search for ways to integrate with it. The last few systems I've measured have been every bit as reasonable as an aftermarket headunit, signal normally gets jacked further down stream.

 

[Ponchonutty]

New units are can bus controlled so a swap isn't really feasible. Obviously you can replace it all which may be my course of action, but the whole basis here was to see if there was a way of hacking into the signal to get out what is necessary.

Also pretty sure that a replacement headunit wouldn't provide any gains on the newer systems IF you managed to talk the bus to keep the controls comparable. I haven't yet measured the outputs for complete verification as my nav crapped so yanking it all may be my approach instead of trying to continue to search for ways to integrate with it. The last few systems I've measured have been every bit as reasonable as an aftermarket headunit, signal normally gets jacked further down stream.

Well, this link below may just change your mind. The freaks at Idatalink.com who partner with Compustar remote starters came up with an audio interface that does EVERYTHING when you swap out the head unit. It can be used with any brand radio but when you use it with the new Kenwood units it does soooooo much more. Click this link to the Acadia Forums to see my write up on it.
http://www.acadiaforum.net/index.php?topic=13017.0

 

[Deephaven]

Well, this link below may just change your mind. The freaks at Idatalink.com who partner with Compustar remote starters came up with an audio interface that does EVERYTHING when you swap out the head unit. It can be used with any brand radio but when you use it with the new Kenwood units it does soooooo much more. Click this link to the Acadia Forums to see my write up on it.
http://www.acadiaforum.net/index.php?topic=13017.0

What would change my mind is measuring a headunit and seeing a crap response. Last GM Bose I measured was awesome...until it hit the amplifier and speakers. Headunit was fine, the rest junk.

In the new ones though it is all bus controlled so replacing it all is probably what needs to happen.

 

[Ponchonutty]

Well, you got me on that one. Yes, the BOSE system is certainly the weak link. We measured the responses on a '08 Vette before and after a head unit change and for some reason, it was much, much better than with the stock unit. We were all scratching our heads as to why???? Granted, for the true audiofile, ditching the whole BOSE system of which if you are going with quality mids/highs you wouldn't want them running off anything BOSE anyways.