Removing Lift

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Donnie Yukonie

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ok well we are here to help hope all goes well gets some pics up and ill see what i can do
 
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ArcticYukon

ArcticYukon

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Alright guys, here's the pics.... if I can't remove it, I'll just go with the suggestion to crank the bars down as low as I can and remove or replace the rear blocks with shorter ones.

Front view of bracket:
IMAG0351.png

Front view of control arm bracket:
IMAG0352.png

Axle and differential drop:
IMAG0349.png

Same view, just panned left a little:
IMAG0350.png

Rancho Shocks:
IMAG0348.png

Rear view of control arm brackets:
IMAG0347.png

Underside view of engine crossmember and trailing arms?:
IMAG0346.png

Transmission crossmember and torsion bar mounts- appears they have maintained the stock mounting location:
IMAG0345.png
 
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ChrisAU

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Red components tell me it is a Rancho lift. Just go with some instructions from a bracket lift (not knuckle like Fabtech) in reverse. A PDF of Rough Country's installation instructions is available on their website.
 

Donnie Yukonie

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i think your in luck bud looks like a spindle drop to me i cant make out the diff very well but it looks to be in stock location
 
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ArcticYukon

ArcticYukon

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Hmmmm.... So I've got 1 vote for a bracket and one for a knuckle.
 

Donnie Yukonie

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a true bracket lift drops everything about 4 1/2 to 5 inches with little crank you get the 6 inches of lift from the looks of things your pumkin appears to be at stock location unless the pictures are decieving me as for what brand ima go with what chris said about rancho ill post pictures in a minute of my turck and show you how a bracket lift looks like , hard to tell from the pics you posted as now as im looking again your cv axles appear to be pretty level which is characteristic of brakets .... so ill post pics let me dig them up here shortly

---------- Post added at 01:51 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:39 AM ----------

P4240160.jpg
P4240159.jpg
P4240161.jpg
P4240162.jpg
P4240163.jpg
 

ChrisAU

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Ummm that right there is a bracket lift.

---------- Post added at 07:27 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:24 AM ----------

The difference is not where the differential is mounted. All the lifts drop the differential. The difference is whether or not control arms are relocated - in a spindle lift, the control arms are spread apart by a taller spindle (knuckle), with the hub at the bottom of the spindle (knuckle). If the differential was left in the stock position the CV angles would be unusable, there is no way around that. If you want the hub to be further away from the truck to create lift, the differential has to come down OR longer CV axles with joints in them can be used. Spindle (knuckle) lifts also use spacers for the CV's to they can reach out to the newly widened track created by the geometry change in the control arms.
 
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ArcticYukon

ArcticYukon

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Thanks for yhe input guys. Yeah, DonYukon, maybe I didnt take the pics right, but the pics of your lift look very similar to what mine looks like... Except for that last picture. I can't quite make out what that is.

I think I'll just crank the front down, take the 4" out of the rear and replace them with the 2" blocks I have, and find 31" tires later if I keep it that long.
 
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arveetek

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I think I'll just crank the front down, take the 4" out of the rear and replace them with the 2" blocks I have, and find 31" tires later if I keep it that long.

That sounds like a good idea to me. Although you can probably keep your 33" tires even with lowering the lift. I have 31" tires right now on my stock suspension, and they almost look a bit small in the wheel openings. You can fit 33" tires on stock suspension with a little torsion crank in the front and some trimming.

Unless you're wanting to drop to a smaller tire size to get it closer to the ground..... but it may look a bit funny with a lift and 31" tires..... It's hard to say....

Casey
 

metalemt

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Yeah but the 31's will also help with mileage which was his other goal it sounds like
 

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