Rear Main Oil Seal

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Larryjb

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If I were to do the Oil Pan Gasket again as much as I don't like removing Steering Parts, I would remove that Steering Link in a second. That Link made everything take so much longer. Working on your back upside down sucks. My Yukon I got last September is absolutely rust free from Richardson Texas. It's a RWD 4X2. Try finding one of those in the upper Midwest. I can't even wait to replace the Oil Pump Tube O-ring and the Pan gasket should almost be kinda fun no front Differential.

If you read one of my earlier posts, I mention that the machining of the oil pan gasket surface was not even. The back of the pan was a two slightly different heights. I used a bead of RTV just over that ridge. I am hoping that is not leaking again, but I do think it's the rear main. However, if I have to remove the oil pan again, all you need to do is separate the center link from the pitman arm. This way the center link will rotate forwards and give you room to drop the front differential. No alignment should be necessary because the center link goes into the exact same position.
 
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Larryjb

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Sounds like your going to attempt the Rear main. I was too until I watched a few video's.

There'a a guy who had to replace his flexplate which involves removing the transmission. He said the job went really well. A lot of the videos look scary, but those are often the ones where the guy doesn't have the right tools. It's just a lot of steps, that's all (see my proposed procedure earlier in this thread).
 

JonnyTahoe

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If you read one of my earlier posts, I mention that the machining of the oil pan gasket surface was not even. The back of the pan was a two slightly different heights. I used a bead of RTV just over that ridge. I am hoping that is not leaking again, but I do think it's the rear main. However, if I have to remove the oil pan again, all you need to do is separate the center link from the pitman arm. This way the center link will rotate forwards and give you room to drop the front differential. No alignment should be necessary because the center link goes into the exact same position.
My arm was sore from rubbing on that steering link would of taken 2 min to move out of the way.
 
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Larryjb

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Sucks your Fluids are so expensive. Hey how about that ''Rickafix video''. Are you kidding me. I had a hard time just watching it. The truck was 2 inches from his face. Got to give the guy Credit for taking the time to make a video of that nightmare job and remember that was his Second time doing it because he Did a fast job the first time and cut a few corners because it sucks working under a five thousand pound truck and he also still had a leak and ended up doing it all over a second time.

Sometimes parts too:
https://www.amazon.ca/Locker-Corpor...------------&vehicleName=2002+Chevrolet+Tahoe

It makes me sick to see this. And this has been happening all along, it's not just a covid-19 thing.
 

JonnyTahoe

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Sorry to hear the bad news Larry. Hoping it all goes smooth for you.
 

Patrick0329

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Here is a pdf version of my procedure. I have removed the unnecessary steps.

Yes, Mark, I have included removing the axle-diff bolts, but I'm not completely removing the differential. This step takes less than 10 minutes and saves a lot of !@#$%-eh's. If anyone wants to know, I understand that removing the center link/pitman arm bolt allows the center link to rotate away from the differential so that it could be removed completely.

If you see any mistakes, let me know so I can correct them.

Updated to include list of tools needed. Get them ready, job goes faster, more time for beer after.

Thanks for the pdf! Great detail front to back. Looking at this weekend or next, pending some supplies coming in. I'll keep you posted on my experience.
 

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