Rear Differential issue Rebuild or Swap W Boneyard rear?

Discussion in 'Engine & Drivetrain' started by KR66, Apr 29, 2018.

  1. KR66

    KR66 Member

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    My 01 Yukon xl slt has a issue in the rear differential it sounded like it was in the front I guess the sound was traveling up the driveline? It has the G80 locker axle the noise it only in forward it’s not detected on reverse! I changed the fluids in everything about 2 months ago and it made no difference in the sound! I really thought it was a Hub or the Front Differential because it causes a sway or drift that feels like mild X Winds! Now I have to figure out the best way to deal with it! The person I had help said he swears it’s the pinion! I think it’s more than than because I have a random handleing issue! I doubt the pinion could cause a sway but if the axle is locking and releasing that might cause a drift! How hard is it to rebuild one of these or should I try to find one on a Yukon Suburban or Escalade in the bone yard with the same Rpo code? Also anyone know how heavy these axles are? Can one be handled by one person or do I definitely need to find help to yank one out? I have knee and back issues so I don’t want to waste a 80 mile round trip to the U pull it! I can post a Video of the sound it’s not the greatest recording but you can definitely hear it! I recorded it on another device so I have to post it from that one later! The front end is completely rebuilt New Timkin Hubs, New Inner and outer tie rods, New Pittman arm, New Idler arm and bracket! Also new Bilstein shocks all 4 with the Coil spring update, all new bump stops, New swaybar links (front)
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2018
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  2. Chubbs

    Chubbs Full Access Member

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    You need to further diagnose the drive line. Wheels off of the ground, start with the front: inspect wheel hubs for excessive movement, same with the inner CV axle and differential carrier interface. Spin the wheels and listen to the carrier, unbolt the CV axle from the diff flange and work its range of motion looking & listening for suspicious noise.

    Then you inspect the driveshafts: best way to do so is remove the pinion-end and move the U-joint throughout its range of motion, play/movement within the bearing caps, rust, missing needles, etc. same for the rear DS. By completely removing each driveshaft the slip yoke can be greased before re-install.

    Examine the rear hubs with wheels off of the ground, check for in/out & up/down movement of outer axle, spin the wheels with a stethoscope on the carrier housing, etc.

    You would be needlessly throwing parts at a problem of which you don't entirely know the nature or origin. 1-person opinion doesn't make it so, please thoroughly run through a checklist from front of vehicle to the back. In doing so, anything that seems suspect can be noted and dealt with simultaneous of the larger problem you are seeking, or at a later date. Possibly all parts gathered from the recycler so that you aren't making a 2nd trip.

    Whenever the components were drained of oil, said oil should have been collected in a clear can & inspected for metal particulate. If you know the condition & contents of oil, replacements you can be certain of depending on your findings. Without oil contamination present, you are diagnosing something unrelated to the differential proper, like an outer wheel bearing.

    Be certain the problem doesn't originate from the front end by gathering some Intel via Google & forum search along with the suggestions I have advised, then progressively work backwards to the vehicle rear. You are more than welcome, encouraged even, to share your findings and ask questions. Please take photos, as it is easy to attach with the posting. Pics goa long way trying to diagnose over the web. Also, video can be recorded & uploaded to YouTube; then just copy/paste the video link into your posting.

    If you really want to isolate the pinion, I suggest removing the drive shaft for starters, raise the back of the truck & put it through the paces.

    http://www.differentials.com/diagnosing-differential-problems/

    Any problems or failures emminating from the diff' will reveal itself with noises and what can be felt, not necessarily vehicle side/side movement @speed which is more closely associated with an outer bearing.

    The front axle housing output has a bearing/seal combo just behind the CV axle attach flange. If the seals have been leaking for a long time and the diff was low on fill-level, the bearings could have suffered. Always inspect the oil fill level of any component before draining as this is always part of diagnosis. If you have info regarding this, and the orig oil conditions upon draining, please share.

    Personally, I wouldn't even consider swapping/replacing the axle assembly before removing the diff cover and examining the carrier component for damage & imminent failure. Without any evidence of dire situation.

    http://www.differentials.com/technical-help-2/failure-analysis/
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2018
  3. KR66

    KR66 Member

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    The front has been cleared! Nothing wrong up there! I had it up on jackstands in 2WD and the noise is definitely in the rear! Now the exact source has yet to be determined? I did change the fluids front and rear a couple months ago and I didn’t find anything unusual in it, you can definitely hear a noise from the pinion area I’m going to post the video in a second sorry I didn’t leave the camera under longer the jackstands were sinking into the ground I didn’t want it taking off on me I didn’t have a helper to sit inside to keep it from getting away the soil down here I mostly clay with gravel on top.But you can definitely hear the noise in the axle it’s not coming from the bearings at the wheels
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2018
  4. Chubbs

    Chubbs Full Access Member

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    Unless you have a diff fluid leak @ seal or cover & then ran the unit low on oil, there really shouldn't be a problem with the pinion bearing.
     
  5. KR66

    KR66 Member

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    It was full when I changed the oil and there’s no leaks I think the previous owner was towing really heavy trailers because the rear tires were almost worn out and the fronts had 75% + tread left they put all 4 on at the same time! The invoice was in the glove box when I got it! It might not be the pinion it could be the locking mechanism? I found a Differential Repair shop that does nothing but axles I’m going to take it to! And just have them rebuild it ! I want it ready for a Cross Country trip by late summer and don’t want any issue!
     
  6. Doubeleive

    Doubeleive Elite Member Supporting Member

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    my recommendation if your having it rebuilt is have them put a Eaton Detroit in there, it will cost you a little more but it's money well spent in the long run
     
  7. KR66

    KR66 Member

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    I’ll have to see what there options are? Thanks for the suggestion I just want it to last and not give me any issues on my upcoming road trip I hate to be 3000 miles from home and have a major issue
     
  8. Doubeleive

    Doubeleive Elite Member Supporting Member

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    the eaton Detroit is top quality, stronger than the g80 even though I believe the g80 is made by eaton also the Detroit is just better and I think it runs about $300 more than the g80 (roughly)
     
  9. KR66

    KR66 Member

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    Thanks I just hope the cost will be at $1000 or less or I’m just gonna save and get a whole rebuilt unit for $1600 shipped and put it in myself that way everything is new inside!
     
  10. KR66

    KR66 Member

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    I just found a guy parting out a 01 Denali he wants $300 for the whole rear axle! He’s checking the ratio and if it’s the same in the morning! You think $300 is a good price? I don’t know if the Denali has the same rear as the Yukon’s? It has a 6.0 in it so it may have a different rear since my Yukon only has a 5.3? I’m not that familiar with the Denali option
     

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