Random Electrical issue - transmission slips in 1st

[Shipyard]

I had a first time new weird issue for the suburban yesterday and wondering if anyone else has experienced this or suspect the cause.

Its a 2016 with 5.3 and 6spd, 33k miles, with no other suspected engine or transmission issues.

First, It took 2 iterations of push starting to get the motor to actually turn over and start/run . The first time the gages moved like the motor had started but it it didn’t. When the motor did start, the CEL was on (no code reader at the time) . And then upon trying to drive in D in the parking lot, it would rev up but barely move. Also, the option to use M was not working either. Wouldn’t display M1 or let me change it. No way was I going to try to drive anywhere like that.

Turned off, restarted again, and same issue... Then disconnected battery for a couple minutes. Reconnected and the issue was gone, CEL was gone, and I could drive home fine. So far-so good after that. DTC codes were not stored when I checked. I’ll keep the code reader with me in case it happens again.

Even tho now I put a dedicated 10mm and ratchet in the glove box for the battery, my wife is not happy.

Anyone have an idea what causes this??? Thanks in advance !

 

[Bill 1960]

Push starting? I hope you meant jump starting?

Low voltage at startup can confuse all sorts of communications between the various engine control components. When my battery was going out I got all sorts of random codes including things like crank position sensor, misfire, weird transmission shifting.

So clarify what “push starting” means and what initial problem you had- dead battery no crank?

 

[1BADI5]

2016 - Its probably time for a new battery.

Pull the battery out and have it tested. But the life span with batteries in newer vehicles is 4-5 years on average do to the electrical systems.

I know someone is going to say it, so I will cover it now. Yes, it only has 33,000 miles, but it doesn't matter. Components still and deteriorate while sitting.

If its still under warranty take it to the dealer and have them test and replace if needed.

 

[Shipyard]

I’m sorry about the confusion! I meant I was using the push button to get it to start. Usually press it for an instant and it starts right up. Not that time. I miss the key... no intense movie scenes are pushing a faulty start button to escape near death

Very good point about the battery possibly being weak. It’s less than a year old battery, but it’s been through hell as I’ve left the Range device in for a couple days sitting and drained the battery dead on maybe 3 or 4 occasions now.

We decided to just use M5 now to prevent the drain.

But I have also noticed in the last week or so, a little bit longer cranking time to start but no driving/transmission issue. So that’s another battery symptom..

I’ll see how batteries plus customer service is if they will work with me on a replacement. That’s something easy
I can try to prevent it from happening again, if that’s all it was. Thanks very much!

 

[Bill 1960]

Best to have the battery load tested, which any auto parts store will usually do for free. It’s entirely possible it was nothing more than a loose or dirty connector. Be a shame to throw away a good battery if you already fixed the cause by disconnecting and reconnecting the terminal.

 

[Shipyard]

10-4 , I don’t expect batteries plus to replace it unless it fails the test. And if it passes I’ll likely give it some more time to see if the problems come back.

Regretfully, the range devices had been using has caused just as much frustration killing my battery as the AFM does when it’s active. With all these computer/electronic issues, I’m even getting hesitant now to have some one deactivate for good with HPtuners like I originally wished for.

Good call on cleaning the terminals, I appreciate it .