Randeez 2012 Budget Yukon Denali Build (stick on hood scoops galore)

randeez · Sep 6, 2021

Thanks guys, I'm thinking its just what it does and is harmless. Just the fact that I'm watching it so closely now is why it's noticeable.
Reducing the size of the radiator it's still larger than the condenser so I've minimally effected the air that comes thru it.

What I have done is put a lot more heat under the hood tho. Which I will try and help that all out with heat wrapping all the exhaust crap

gat0r · Sep 6, 2021

odd, but interesting option to help remove heat from under hood

randeez · Sep 7, 2021

welp....noise wasnt from front axles. i wasnt really convinced it was but easiest thing to do first.
i checked over the front diff/mounts and tried to bang it a few times, grabbed back where driveshaft mounts and really no movement. i dont think i put out as much hp as the 427 tho

next to check:
a)im dreading that its the transfer case. it only seems to do it getting on it from stopped or nearly stopped. i can lay into it pretty heavy from a roll and no noise.

which leads me to b) maybe 25% possible that the center axle disconnect sleeve is ate up in the front axle. thinking that for a couple reasons...since it seems fine if i get on it moving and both tires are going the same speed no noise....low rpm 1 tire wants to spin thus making a lot of noise. and someone makes a billet sleeve to replace the stock cast one thus it happens often enough someone is making it.

randeez · Sep 8, 2021

Back up it went, pulled the passenger axle extension out. Looked everything over and couldn't find much wrong. The collar to the outer shaft fits kind of loose but I think that's just because it's sposed to slide easily on it to engage.
You can see the engagement marks and doesn't look bad. Cleaned it up feeling defeated that I had to pull the transfer case out and for whatever reason pushed on the fork, against the stuck actuator, and it felt pretty springy. So there's a chance it's pushing far enough out to let it disengage.

randeez · Sep 9, 2021

posted last night and it said i need admin approval

anyways to hopefully "fix" that problem i ordered one of the standard motor products solid pieces that threads into where the actuator goes to keep it in "4x4". im really hoping that the collar pushing off is what is happening, after seeing how easy it was to push it could be.

if not, transfer case is coming out i guess, but im over it...sick of working off my back. will prob bring it over to friends shop with the BW case and pull it out there. if its junk ill throw the bw back in for the mean time.

ctsv mods...looked into installing a catch can, that does anything, is a PITA apparently. the pcv valve comes from the valley cover right into the bottom of the supercharger. so you have to pull the supercharger to swap the valve out to a bypass style one that blocks off the supercharger power and a new hose is added out from of it. i really would like to do it cause this thing still blows smoke when you romp on it and im pretty convinced it is from oil in the SC. but i dont really want to go through that much work to just put a catch can on. would like to do a few other things if i have to pull the sc anyway

Rocket Man · Sep 9, 2021

They’re just making things harder and harder to work on. I’ll pass.

randeez · Sep 10, 2021

looks like transfer case is next....

which sucks cause the rest of it is running awesome.
i'll probably throw in the BW case, and the driveshaft it needs, this weekend. i'll tear the np149 case down whenever, and of course i just threw out all the parts i replaced when i rebuilt it a week or so ago. the oem parts, i shouldve left in it,, prob better than the rebuild kit junk.

Tonyrodz · Sep 10, 2021

randeez said:
looks like transfer case is next....

which sucks cause the rest of it is running awesome.
i'll probably throw in the BW case, and the driveshaft it needs, this weekend. i'll tear the np149 case down whenever, and of course i just threw out all the parts i replaced when i rebuilt it a week or so ago. the oem parts, i shouldve left in it,, prob better than the rebuild kit junk.

Never throw anything away--just in case.

randeez · Sep 11, 2021

Tonyrodz said:
Never throw anything away--just in case.

looks like i wouldnt have had what i needed to fix it anyway...
planetaries and the output shaft (rotate opposite each other) seem to be grinding together - a bushing between them completley gone, fluid metallic as hell.
i'll see if i can find parts for it but will prob need to buy a whole new case

ill throw the stock borg warner case back in in the mean time, and maybe throw a lockrite locker in the front? cause i would almost rather gear back down instead of spending the money on another np149

cheapest np149 i can find (ebay) is like 650+100 to ship it - the shaft and planetaries is like 450$ also tho...sooooo i dont know. i dont facebook if any of ya want to see if theres anything good on marketplace. nothing on craiglist in the state of florida, letgo, offerup etc nothing.

Tonyrodz · Sep 11, 2021

randeez said:
looks like i wouldnt have had what i needed to fix it anyway...
planetaries and the output shaft (rotate opposite each other) seem to be grinding together - a bushing between them completley gone, fluid metallic as hell.
i'll see if i can find parts for it but will prob need to buy a whole new case

ill throw the stock borg warner case back in in the mean time, and maybe throw a lockrite locker in the front? cause i would almost rather gear back down instead of spending the money on another np149

cheapest np149 i can find (ebay) is like 650+100 to ship it - the shaft and planetaries is like 450$ also tho...sooooo i dont know. i dont facebook if any of ya want to see if theres anything good on marketplace. nothing on craiglist in the state of florida, letgo, offerup etc nothing.

Ebay $900.

$900 is the cheapest.

Randeez 2012 Budget Yukon Denali Build (stick on hood scoops galore)

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