Randeez 2012 Budget Yukon Denali Build (stick on hood scoops galore)

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iamdub

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they (thompson) didnt seem to make a big deal out of it, they say just disconnect coils and injectors turn over a handful of times for about 10 seconds each and let er rip

I'm sure the assembly lube is sufficient. Mine often sits for 5+ days between starts and it has a lifter that drains down. I hold the pedal to the floor and hold the key to let it crank until the PCM stops it, wait a minute or so for the starter to cool a little, then crank again. When holding the pedal to the floor and holding the key, the PCM will let it crank for about 10 seconds even if you're still holding the key. I've noticed a few psi of oil pressure at the start of the second cranking cycle. That lifter ticks much more quietly and only for about 5 seconds when I do this. I'm sure I'm beating on the battery and starter, but I plan to tear it down for an AFM delete within the next couple of months.

On a fresh install, I disconnect the coils but leave the injectors connected and crank a few times to purge the fuel system. Of course, this is after purging from the Schrader valve on the rail. I just like to get the engine to start ASAP as if it's been there all along. Damned OCD.
 

Chert_Detective

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So I found your build thread while looking for drag wheel/tire setups, ended up reading every page. I started first by thinking "Hell yeah he's already done everything I'm currently in the middle of!" Which then quickly turned in to "Noooo! He's doing everything I told myself I wouldn't!!"

Excellent to say the least. I'm in the middle of, what I told myself would be, a mild NA build on my 08' short body Denali. Front/rear 4.11s, Circle D 3200-3400, TSP 229/244 ls3 cam and vvt delete(thankfully being an '08 the AFM hardware wasn't even present), plus the usual LS valvetrain uprades except I'm reusing stock valves. That was all phase one of the build. Phase two entailed cnc ported stock heads, manifold swap, and flex fuel conversion. Two of the new lifters failed right off the bat so instead of pulling the heads to replace them, and then a third time for phase two, I just expedited phase two and am doing it all at once.

PS, your LSXcalade counter part is the welder at the shop doing the work. I just don't have the free time or space to do it at the house.

As you can see from the post count, I'm more of a reader, I was active as hell on the cobalt forums. I felt the need to post though and just say, badass man.
 
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randeez

randeez

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So I found your build thread while looking for drag wheel/tire setups, ended up reading every page. I started first by thinking "Hell yeah he's already done everything I'm currently in the middle of!" Which then quickly turned in to "Noooo! He's doing everything I told myself I wouldn't!!"

Excellent to say the least. I'm in the middle of, what I told myself would be, a mild NA build on my 08' short body Denali. Front/rear 4.11s, Circle D 3200-3400, TSP 229/244 ls3 cam and vvt delete(thankfully being an '08 the AFM hardware wasn't even present), plus the usual LS valvetrain uprades except I'm reusing stock valves. That was all phase one of the build. Phase two entailed cnc ported stock heads, manifold swap, and flex fuel conversion. Two of the new lifters failed right off the bat so instead of pulling the heads to replace them, and then a third time for phase two, I just expedited phase two and am doing it all at once.

PS, your LSXcalade counter part is the welder at the shop doing the work. I just don't have the free time or space to do it at the house.

As you can see from the post count, I'm more of a reader, I was active as hell on the cobalt forums. I felt the need to post though and just say, badass man.


well, welcome! yea the cam/bolt ons was pretty reliable for over a year... i got it to where goal was running on just motor and was time to do more. plan was just to turbo and enjoy for a while and same crap had a few mishaps and jumped a few steps lol. at the time i sized injectors to be able to cover how much the 80/96 turbo could flow - so upgrading to bigger turbo means new injectors prob more pump, new intercooler, etc, etc. and then it gets into if im going to make that big of a jump i should put the money into a gt55 and just need to call it quits. but i will see how much this engine gobbles up the turbo i have, if im not out of injector i will probably just grab next size up that fits right in place and not have to change any hot/charge pipes.

LSXcalade - i didnt come across his build until about 4 months ago when it started popping up on IG, probably would have saved me a lot of time with some things, i took a lot of cues from Three6GMC on PT/FB/IG with a gmt900 (truck but pretty much same platform)
 

Chert_Detective

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His issue right now I believe is yokes and u joints. Drives it all the time though, it's pretty badass.

I'm just going to stick to a nice flex fuel build though. Heads, cam, manifold, converter, gears. If it needs a little bump to hit a 12.99 I might put a small plate kit on it. I'm using a 450 intank with the stock hat/regulator and FAST 50lb'ers. Should be enough for what I need even if I have a higher ethanol content in the tank.
 

Onebad1983

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His issue right now I believe is yokes and u joints. Drives it all the time though, it's pretty badass.

I'm just going to stick to a nice flex fuel build though. Heads, cam, manifold, converter, gears. If it needs a little bump to hit a 12.99 I might put a small plate kit on it. I'm using a 450 intank with the stock hat/regulator and FAST 50lb'ers. Should be enough for what I need even if I have a higher ethanol content in the tank.
You're talking about Stapleton42 right?
 
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randeez

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Yea I dont think theres going to be anyway to avoid breaking those, I havent had any problems with driveshaft (yet) but being shorty and having true awd transfercase(ie front wheels not locked with rear wheels) I'm hoping will help. Its almost like leaving them sacrificial is better imo than breaking the trans every couple months
 

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