Radio install, Now no crank, no door locks, no keyless

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

OP
OP
W

wfburton159

Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2013
Posts
42
Reaction score
14
Another shot in the dark might be to disconnect the negative pole on the battery and leave it off for maybe 30 minutes. If the RAM got semi scrambled in one or more of the control modules, discharging everything fully might allow a reload from non-volatile memory and get things reset. Some guys touch both battery cables (off the battery) to assure complete discharge.

I will try this in about a 1/2 hour. Also to note when I reconnected the battery tonight earlier I had the doors closed. When I opened the driver door the dome lights turned on. I got so excited. But then like stated above the joy didn't last long. Edit. That was not long enough. I will try again in the morning.
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
W

wfburton159

Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2013
Posts
42
Reaction score
14
This morning I reconnected the battery and everything worked. Tested the keyless entry and windows. Same thing though after 30 seconds or so the warning lights came on and gauges quit and door locks and windows quit. So what is the test? Now I still have the aftermarket radio installed. I will now install the factory radio again and try that tonight.
 

wsteele

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2020
Posts
1,731
Reaction score
2,346
If it still is flaky after re-installing the OE radio, you may need a re-flash of your BCM (or maybe a new BCM). You might check the Tech 2 owners list in the General Discussion section.
 
OP
OP
W

wfburton159

Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2013
Posts
42
Reaction score
14
If it still is flaky after re-installing the OE radio, you may need a re-flash of your BCM (or maybe a new BCM). You might check the Tech 2 owners list in the General Discussion section.
Nobody close to me in North Dakota
 
OP
OP
W

wfburton159

Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2013
Posts
42
Reaction score
14
Well putting it back to the OEM radio did not work. But tonight I decided I was going to just try driving it around. So I was driving around for about two hours and never shut it off. It cut in and out quite a few times during that time. I feel like something in the steering column wiring is messed up. It first popped back on when turning the steering wheel. Then almost immediately shut down but when I really moved the steering wheel around it would get better. That astrostart wiring isn’t doing me any favors. I was getting fuel and was moving the wires around at the column and it came back on. The wheel has been making a funny noise lately so I feel that infinity coil deal could be to blame. But it would also be working and I wouldn’t move anything it would just be sitting at idle and drop in and out with nothing moving. I have been wanting to change to heated steering wheel and have a line on an entire used column. Another possibility I think it could be the main negative battery cable to the engine. The crimp right at the engine looks a little iffy and it does seem like when the charging sense goes on and off that it screws up judging by watching the voltage gauge. There was one point when only the voltage gauge went off or sweeped down to 9 volts and even the 12 volt jacks went off but the headlights stayed on perfectly and it was idling perfectly. What a mess this is.
 

Brandon2489

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2018
Posts
138
Reaction score
100
Did you happen to disconnect the battery before doing the work you did?

There was a recent thread with similar symptoms (security like issues) where someone was working on their power lift gate (or maybe their wiper motor) and didn't disconnect the battery. Somehow they took out their Body Control Module (I think it was the BCM), due to I think the internal grounding design of the BCM. You might search the Engine and Powertrain and the General Discussion section of these MY's and check it out.

Good luck.
That was me that posted the tsb about the BCM. Here is the pic from that thread.
Screenshot_20211103-060814_Firefox.jpg
 
OP
OP
W

wfburton159

Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2013
Posts
42
Reaction score
14
That was me that posted the tsb about the BCM. Here is the pic from that thread.
Thanks for posting. I did not remove the negative battery cable. It very well could be the body control module. I am still in the process of trying to make sure that is what it is. With the issue coming and going I do feel better about it not being as delicate of a system as it first seemed. I was glad I got out and drove it for a few hours to try and figure out the issue. If you look on youtube there are countless videos with the exact same warning lights and almost all of them have a different resolution. One just popped up on my recommended videos today and the resolution on that one was a bad spark plug. The Astrostart wiring on this one looks horrible and I was getting kinda rough with the unit and likely moving wires around. I have wanted to upgrade this to heated wheel so I have found a used column. I will likely buy a new coil spring at some point because I think that is one of my issues as you can crank the wheel back and forth and the issues show themselves. Last night when I parked it everything is in working order. Found another video about the steering wheel position sensor at the bottom of the column near the floor. So many possibilities.
 
Last edited:

Rocket Man

Mark
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2014
Posts
25,961
Reaction score
50,621
Location
Oregon
I hate intermittent electrical issues, they’re the hardest to figure out. Wishing you the best. I’m sure you’ll figure it out. Make sure to update this when you do.
 

Loud03denali

TYF Newbie
Joined
Jul 11, 2021
Posts
7
Reaction score
5
Quickly skimmed through all this. Are you using an interface for the install or just tapping into the wiring?
 

Forum statistics

Threads
128,781
Posts
1,805,305
Members
91,760
Latest member
MyCleftNut

Latest posts

Top