Radio Fuse keeps Blowing

[s1kmad3]

2010 Tahoe

symptoms:

-DIC - "Park Assist Off". I tried powering the park assist on by pressing the park assist button on the dash, but all it would do is blink when I pressed it. radio was not working and my DIC was still saying "Park Assist Off".

-All the lights on the radio were on, but the radio screen is blank.

- Can't hear my seatbelt alarm, blinker ticks, low gas waring, etc.

went to change radio fuse but it keeps blowing when it makes contact when inserting.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!

 

[HiHoeSilver]

You have a dead short somewhere. That's going to be tough to find. A power probe might be helpful. I would start by disconnecting affected modules one at a time and trying the fuse (or voltmeter) to see if you can isolate a bad component.

 

[s1kmad3]

You have a dead short somewhere. That's going to be tough to find. A power probe might be helpful. I would start by disconnecting affected modules one at a time and trying the fuse (or voltmeter) to see if you can isolate a bad component.

Thanks I'll start there!

 

[s1kmad3]

So the head unit is bad.

any suggestions on a great reliable replacement that's plug n play? Nothing fancy.

 

[Doubeleive]

ebay or wrecking yard, then you just need to swing by a dealership and ask them to put in the code, a used radio is going to run you anywhere from $200-600

 

[s1kmad3]

ebay or wrecking yard, then you just need to swing by a dealership and ask them to put in the code, a used radio is going to run you anywhere from $200-600

And if I go aftermarket?

 

[swathdiver]

And if I go aftermarket?

Is that a navigation radio? Rosen's Car Show looks pretty cool to me. @iamdub @kbuskill

 

[Doubeleive]

And if I go aftermarket?

depends, you can go ultra cheap or sky's the limit, the deck I put in mine is about $1k, adapters and modules another $250-300 or more I don't remember exactly

 

[iamdub]

So the head unit is bad.

any suggestions on a great reliable replacement that's plug n play? Nothing fancy.

First off, set a budget. If you're fine with the OEM HU, you can look for one that's cheap enough. Factor in anywhere from about $50 to $100 or more to have it unlocked. There are unlocked OEM HUs on eBay. This will be the easiest replacement, but may not be the cheapest unless you get a deal on an OEM one. Beyond that, you can get aftermarket, anything from a single DIN and have a storage pocket underneath it to a double DIN, which is the size of the OEM HU. An aftermarket will need an interface. I'd suggest you don't skimp here as the cheaper ones all have their oddities. The two I've tried, one had obnoxiously loud warning tones and barely audible blinker "tocks", and the other was just the opposite. One feature that was a big deal to me with an aftermarket HU was being able to stream music wirelessly through Bluetooth in addition to hands-free phone operation. Regardless of interface, it won't be plug-and-play like a factory HU. You'll have to wire the HU to the interface THEN the interface plugs into the OEM dash wiring. As far as reliability, I think the OEM ones are generally more reliable than aftermarket. With aftermarket, it's kind of a crapshoot. I'd stick to the bigger name brands such as Pioneer, Alpine, Kenwood, etc. There are aftermarket ones that are plug-and-play that look like the OEM HU but have all the features of a well-equipped aftermarket HU. The Rosen Carshow one that James (@swathdiver) mentioned is one and I think there is one other. They are pricey, though.

 

[kbuskill]

Check out ADC mobile... talk to Walt... he is a vendor/member on here and an all around good guy that has a ton of knowledge from many years in the audio/video business. He can hook you up with the Rosen GM1210. It is plug & play with no additional adaptors required and will only run you about $6-$700 and the sound quality is ALOT better than the stock Navi HU.