Question with Supreme Key Lift w/ 2 inch spacers.

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Superstachebro

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So I recently had to do upper and lower control arms on my 2wd Yukon and I installed the Supreme level kit. Now my front bump stops aren't touching the lower control arm. Do I need new shocks?

or can I use these I made at my fab shop for the time being so the jounce stops make contact until I can get new shocks?
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iamdub

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So I recently had to do upper and lower control arms on my 2wd Yukon and I installed the Supreme level kit. Now my front bump stops aren't touching the lower control arm. Do I need new shocks?

or can I use these I made at my fab shop for the time being so the jounce stops make contact until I can get new shocks?
View attachment 374939

I don't see why not. Cool idea. Good job!

Shocks would have no affect on the jounce stop positioning. Leave the jounce stop spacers in place and get your shocks.
 
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Superstachebro

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I don't see why not. Cool idea. Good job!

Shocks would have no affect on the jounce stop positioning. Leave the jounce stop spacers in place and get your shocks.
Thank you, i can't take credit,, i saw it on someone else's truck somewhere on the internet..
I'm just afraid with the upper arm touching the stop that it might bend something. Do you think using for those extenders is good or should I just use some aluminum?
 

iamdub

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TI'm just afraid with the upper arm touching the stop that it might bend something.

Lifting puts the suspension in "droop" (down travel). The jounce stop is to limit "bump" (up travel). Are you saying your upper control arms are touching the frame with the car sitting on the ground? If so, you'll need upper control arms for a lift. They're shaped differently to have more of an arch to provide clearance and good ball joint angle.


Do you think using for those extenders is good or should I just use some aluminum?

Those jounce stops on the lower arms are part of the suspension, as in, they supplement the torsion bars in supporting the weight of the vehicle. That's why they need to be touching the hump on the frame. Whatever they're mounted to needs to be able to take that kind of load. If those extenders are a really hard plastic-type material and are solidly mounted, they should be good. I can't tell 100% from the pic, though. I assume the factory jounce stops (the foam rubber things) attach to those extenders, right?
 
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Superstachebro

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Lifting puts the suspension in "droop" (down travel). The jounce stop is to limit "bump" (up travel). Are you saying your upper control arms are touching the frame with the car sitting on the ground? If so, you'll need upper control arms for a lift. They're shaped differently to have more of an arch to provide clearance and good ball joint angle.




Those jounce stops on the lower arms are part of the suspension, as in, they supplement the torsion bars in supporting the weight of the vehicle. That's why they need to be touching the hump on the frame. Whatever they're mounted to needs to be able to take that kind of load. If those extenders are a really hard plastic-type material and are solidly mounted, they should be good. I can't tell 100% from the pic, though. I assume the factory jounce stops (the foam rubber things) attach to those extenders, right?
Basically it looks like the upper arm is almost touching the frame while parked. Im only on a key lift, Id say 2 inches max.


The stops I made are out of polyurethane, basically same stuff Rollerblade wheels are made of. I was going to mount them to the lower arm, and the upper arm with the jounce would just barely touch while parked, and also help a bit on the upward travel so it doesn't have that floating feel for the first inch of travel.

Sorry for my ignorance, this is my first truck, ive only ever modified drag cars and all that, its a very different ideology. Ill post some pictures of what I mean tomorrow.
 

iamdub

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Basically it looks like the upper arm is almost touching the frame while parked. Im only on a key lift, Id say 2 inches max.


The stops I made are out of polyurethane, basically same stuff Rollerblade wheels are made of. I was going to mount them to the lower arm, and the upper arm with the jounce would just barely touch while parked, and also help a bit on the upward travel so it doesn't have that floating feel for the first inch of travel.

Sorry for my ignorance, this is my first truck, ive only ever modified drag cars and all that, its a very different ideology. Ill post some pictures of what I mean tomorrow.

"...Just barely touch..."- it needs to have clearance to swing down and up. You have no problem with up travel. During normal driving, the truck will go higher than the resting/parked position, meaning the upper arms are bottoming out. You need to de-crank it about an inch or get upper arms for a lift or lift it with spindles so you can put the rest of the suspension back to its stock position.
 
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Superstachebro

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"...Just barely touch..."- it needs to have clearance to swing down and up. You have no problem with up travel. During normal driving, the truck will go higher than the resting/parked position, meaning the upper arms are bottoming out. You need to de-crank it about an inch or get upper arms for a lift or lift it with spindles so you can put the rest of the suspension back to its stock position.
I actually got the idea from this forum. The lift is pretty much identical to that one, outside of the shocks. I dont feel the arm bottoming out while driving, just a bit of a rough ride, which I've read thats due to key lifts? I haven't had a chance to put it on the lift yet, hopefully this week. https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/austinites-2000-nbs-tahoe-ex-grocery-hauler-build.92733/
 

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