Question for the 01-06 people

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adriver

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Year/model? I'm questioning if you were fed a fat crock of shit lol

As far as maintenance on my truck goes... I'm in the 500 to 750 a year bracket for maintenance. Put 12-15k on it annually. It's probably overkill but I need my equipment to perform with flawless reliability. I do a lot of driving in the middle of 'nowhere.' If I incur a breakdown, the privilege of getting to a shop will cost me something around $350, plus cost of repairs, plus the time associated with it, plus (likely) hotel costs and transport to/from the shop. It's worth my time to stay on top of this stuff, even if it borders the side of hypochondriacal maintenance

My maintenance schedule is roughly something like:

Oil every 3-4k. Full synthetic. M1 0w30 or castrol synthetic 5w30. Depends on time of year and what's on sale at the time. Oil filter is either amsoil or fram ultra filter. I drain/fill the oil in the trans pan every other oil change. Front diff gets done yearly with 75w140. Not ideal, but I'm trying to limp it for now. It's boinked. All steering components see a dosing of a synthetic chassis grease.

I'll also take this time to go over belts, inspect hoses, a/c lines, various fittings, brakes, bushings, etc etc, Basically any and all soft parts. And give it a good interior wipedown :p



Annually: Change engine, cabin filter, p/s fluid, sand/touch up any compromised rust areas, rotate tires, check torque on front axle nuts, give the whole vehicle a shakedown. Make sure everything tight is tight, everything that moves, moves. As a final bit, I check t-stat open temp with either my scan tool or a temp gun. Whatever's handy at the time and verify my a/c pressures are in spec

Every 2 years: brake fluid, coolant, trans filter, rear diff fluid, tcase fluid


Almost 14 year old vehicle with 140k on it and there's not a single pop, clunk, squeak, whine, drip, funny smell, or the need to add oil over the course of an OCI.

My last two were a 2001 325/e46 and a 1991 M5/e34. The majority of that is labor at $100-$130 an hour. Feel free to read it right out of the owners manual. There are a lot of specialty tools required, and is as if maintenance was an afterthought. I want to say a head gasket was a 20hr job. Suspension is the same thing, but you don't replace just the bushings, you replace the aluminum control arms, and such. The idea is to replace everything once you think it might start to be questionable. They were fun to drive, but if you're going to bat an eye at spending $5k unexpectedly on a service, than you need to be able to do all your own work.
 
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drakon543

drakon543

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well by the general consensus doing a proper test drive and thorough check of the vehicle if everything seems good ill be happy with 150k-180k. if its in super nice shape which so far ive actually found quite a few that appear like they spent thier entire 200k in a sealed garage i could even be temped on a 200k one. my wife does most of the driving with the suv since her work is right in town it doesn't really get alot of mileage.
 

ShaginWagon

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Bought my 03 at 128k. No maintenance records and ran amazing. Trans went out at like 132k. Had a rebuilt slapped in and has been my baby ever since. I’ve already put more money in it than I would have liked, ac compressor clutch went out, air intake gasket, fuel pump. Many other things as well but those boil down to basic maintenance that seemed ignored until I had it.
 

SnowDrifter

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My last two were a 2001 325/e46 and a 1991 M5/e34. The majority of that is labor at $100-$130 an hour. Feel free to read it right out of the owners manual. There are a lot of specialty tools required, and is as if maintenance was an afterthought. I want to say a head gasket was a 20hr job. Suspension is the same thing, but you don't replace just the bushings, you replace the aluminum control arms, and such. The idea is to replace everything once you think it might start to be questionable. They were fun to drive, but if you're going to bat an eye at spending $5k unexpectedly on a service, than you need to be able to do all your own work.
How strange. I looked through the owners manuals I could find, as well as maintenance plans listed on identifix and couldn't find any mention of this.
 

adriver

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How strange. I looked through the owners manuals I could find, as well as maintenance plans listed on identifix and couldn't find any mention of this.
Wow, you seem to have a ******* for my posts. Its been close to 10 years since I've owned one. If you want to try to disprove me that bad, go search the forums.

But if were going to play this stupid game... Where exactly DID you look for maintenance, parts and labor cost?
 

PNWMuseumman

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I have an 02 Z71 with 278k on it, but it has been in my family since new, so it's a cherry picked case given how meticulous my dad is with his cars. These really will run forever and ever. One of the big questions for me when I bought my wife's denali was to find out from the previous owner how much they towed. My tahoe trans has been bullet proof the whole way, but then again it has towed almost nothing.

I try to phrase the question in a way that sounds like i'm doubting it will tow what I want it to, this usually gets people to brag about all of the heavey sh*t they've towed with it.

For me the number I try to stay under when buying is 120k, but my wife's denali was the outlier with 140k but it was in excellent shape.

**One thing to keep in mind on the Denali's / Yukon's, Autoride (if you plan to keep it) is ungodly expensive when you need shocks.

This was the only surprise I had with the denali, but if you're ok doing the delete, then the denali is FREAKING AWESOME!
 

inmypassatlife

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I have been looking at 07+ NNBS Ukon XL and Suburbans, but the AFM shit scares me and I don't feel like spending the coin if it goes out even 2+ years after purchase. That's a lot of upgrades I would rather spend elsewhere than "bulletproofing" due to a manufacturer defect.

I have been looking at NBS Yukons and even Escalades as I can find those in decent condition in the 150-180k range with clean titles and decent carfax/autocheck history for $3-6k.

If you need any discounts on Carfax/Autocheck let me know. I got a hookup
 

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