Pre-lowered 12 Tahoe. How much?

[Drwinlied]

Hi everyone,

Have a couple questions. Apologies for a lack of sufficient detail, but I'm on my phone.

Is there a way to tell how much my vehicle has been lowered F/R? No clue on parts used either.

I bought a used 2012 tahoe a while back and it was lowered by the previous owner (told myself I'd never buy a pre-lowered vehicle...annnnd I lied).

Frankly, the ride is harsh AF so I'm hoping to improve that too. Foremost, however, I need some new tires. I'm looking at wheels/tires in stock 20" sizes.

I want some AT tires, because I am in the midwest.

If anyone knows how to find the lowered level of Hector (that's his name!) and how in the world I can apply that info to both tires and new suspension goodies to lessen the lumber wagon, I'd really appreciate it.

I like it lowered so I'd like to keep it that way. But suspension work is not my wheelhouse (or close to it).

Thanks for reading and any advice. I tend to ramble so this will be fun for everyone lol.

 

[91RS]

Post a picture of the truck and we can likely tell based on that. Also, is it an LTZ with Mag/Auto Ride or an LS/LT with standard shocks? The drop may have nothing to do with a harsh ride. AT tires will definitely not help ride quality (Michelin Defender LTX is all I recommend).

 

[Big Mama]

Pictures of rig please and you might look at the rear shock mounts to see if it has shock extenders. The ride quality may just be from old shocks and struts.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics, please.

When you answer the questions posted by the folks above, you'll likely get a quick determination from them regarding your question.

Your question regarding new tires is closely related to the type of driving, and on what surfaces, your do it most on.

 

[Drwinlied]

Pics of profile and rear susp, of which I hope you have much advice on (hopefully they are clickable thumbnails). It's an LT with 4wd. Yeah I'm not under the impression it's necessarily the lowering that crapped the ride. But I always leave suspension work to the professionals so I have about 0.01% foundational knowledge to begin with (convenience has a price).

My driveway is a slight incline, but measured from top of tire to inner fender at 3.5/F & 4.5R. That's the inner fender so the non-rolled fender wheel gap is a little under 3 F and 4 R. I imagine that rear would settle slightly on level ground.

Current tires are Bridgestone Duellers H/L. Not like I'm autocrossing this, so they're fine for non-winter...but I like being able to drive in Winter so I just assumed go with AT tires. My last truck had Wrangler Duratecs and those worked great for me...but they are expensive...I'd rather get a cheaper AT just the same. But if those will increase NVH I guess I'm back to research mode for non-AT's. I don't have much experience here, as I've been in cars my entire life save for the truck I leased before I bought this...so I know nothing of 'truck' tires. But I suppose AT have more ply/stiffer sidewalls or something...so makes sense if that's correct.




Also - the inner fenders have been worn completely through in both front/rear in spots, so I assume it was much lower at some point...

 

[iamdub]

I'm gonna guess that's a 2/3 drop. It looks like it's done "right", but it shouldn't ride harshly. Can't tell from the pic because of the shock, but is the bump stop and bracket cut off the frame in the rear? Get us a pic of the front so we can see how that's dropped.

 

[Drwinlied]

Bump stop still there; looks janky though. Tough to get a pic of the front because I'm basically doing it blind. Let me know if you need to see a different view and I'll contort as needed. Also it's dusk outside so pics may be crap; I'll take more tomorrow with better light as needed.

Thank you

 

[iamdub]

View attachment 263084 View attachment 263085

Bump stop still there; looks janky though. Tough to get a pic of the front because I'm basically doing it blind. Let me know if you need to see a different view and I'll contort as needed. Also it's dusk outside so pics may be crap; I'll take more tomorrow with better light as needed.

Thank you

There's the reason for the rough ride, at least in the rear. You're resting flat on the bump stops- they are practically your suspension at this point. They need to be removed as well as that hump on the bottom of the frame that they are mounted to (Google "free travel mod"), then bolt some low-profile ones to the bottom of the frame rail itself. This would make a WORLD of difference in ride quality.

As for the front, it's definitely lowered with coils (Belltech or DJM) and what looks to be Belltech struts. I have no experience with them coils. But, I know changing coils alters ride quality from stock. So, either they're stiff drop coils or most, if not all of your harshness is from the rear resting on the bump stops.

 

[Drwinlied]

There's the reason for the rough ride, at least in the rear. You're resting flat on the bump stops- they are practically your suspension at this point. They need to be removed as well as that hump on the bottom of the frame that they are mounted to (Google "free travel mod"), then bolt some low-profile ones to the bottom of the frame rail itself. This would make a WORLD of difference in ride quality.

As for the front, it's definitely lowered with coils (Belltech or DJM) and what looks to be Belltech struts. I have no experience with them coils. But, I know changing coils alters ride quality from stock. So, either they're stiff drop coils or most, if not all of your harshness is from the rear resting on the bump stops.

lol you know, now that you say that, it makes 100% sense. It's like having a great idea until you simply say it out loud and realize, 'wow, that's dumb'. I look at that rear section and tell myself, 'idk what this is' and move on. Except I do have a rudimentary understanding of 'things' so if I would have just put some perspective (and effort) into this I probably could have pieced together, "you're sitting on the bumpstop, idiot" haha.

well, that's why I'm here. I can't thank you enough for helping on this. Looks like I'm researching and "installing" Free Travel Mod before winter. I'm willing to bet the VAST majority of NVH in this is from that.

I'll do all of this, get new wheels & tires just in time to sell it for something that tows more. BRILLIANT!

EDIT:
However, is that normal to sit directly on the bumpstop on a lowered vehicle, considering it appears to be a relatively small drop? maybe the rear shocks are blown and it's just literally riding on the bumps lol. oh gawd oh lordy! well now i have to dig into this tomorrow. Thanks again though!

Also, if there is a 'preferred' vendor for the low-pro bumpstops on here, I'll gladly send them some business.

 

[91RS]

Definitely looks pretty close to a 2/3 drop. Riding on the rear bump stops is definitely problem # 1. There is ZERO need to do the free travel mod with a 3" drop, I try to avoid cutting things off at all costs because it can't be reversed. Buy the shorter Belltech bump stops, they pop right in. Belltech Sport Trucks and Muscle Cars

I much prefer a spindle drop to springs but to change to that you would need to buy new factory springs. It looks like it has been lowered for some time so the shocks are probably tired. I would change them out with the Bilstein 5100 and change the rear shock extenders to McGaughys which extend the shock more than the Belltech ones and it should drive significantly better.

The wheel liners rubbing is just what happens when the ride height is changed (higher or lower). They rub on both of my trucks.

 

[Big Mama]

Your drop looks like mine, which is a 2/3 as noted above. The worn liners could also have been from a wider or deeper offset wheel/tire combo. I have 305/40/22 didn’t touch the liners and they’re fine. Also agree on spindles if you’re going to make changes. Here’s mine with a 2/3 for comparison.

 

[03catburban]

That looks more 3/5 then a 2/3. And the coil spring supports the load so even if the shocks are wore it shouldn't sit on the bump stops unless spring is wore out or is lower then 3" which is what it looks like

 

[cfmistry]

There is ZERO need to do the free travel mod with a 3" drop, I try to avoid cutting things off at all costs because it can't be reversed. Buy the shorter Belltech bump stops, they pop right in. Belltech Sport Trucks and Muscle Cars

Wait, really? I thought that anything 3"+ needs the FT mod? I'm doing a 2/3" in the next couple weeks so this makes a big difference for me!

 

[91RS]

This is how much room mine has between the bump stop. Mine has Auto Ride and the bags are empty because it’s recently developed a leak. I’ve never bottomed out to where I noticed it. The Belltech bump stops are more like the factory ones in that the material has some give to it. You can also get even shorter polyurethane alternatives if desired. All my research said free travel is required for 4” or more and I don’t like how the 2/4 drop looks like the rear is lower than the front.

 

[Drwinlied]

Definitely looks pretty close to a 2/3 drop. Riding on the rear bump stops is definitely problem # 1. There is ZERO need to do the free travel mod with a 3" drop, I try to avoid cutting things off at all costs because it can't be reversed. Buy the shorter Belltech bump stops, they pop right in. Belltech Sport Trucks and Muscle Cars

I much prefer a spindle drop to springs but to change to that you would need to buy new factory springs. It looks like it has been lowered for some time so the shocks are probably tired. I would change them out with the Bilstein 5100 and change the rear shock extenders to McGaughys which extend the shock more than the Belltech ones and it should drive significantly better.

The wheel liners rubbing is just what happens when the ride height is changed (higher or lower). They rub on both of my trucks.

Awesome info, thank you. I'll start comparing spindle vs spring setups and go from there. Step one is to eliminate some variable at this point. I'll get that rear off the ground (probably just do a stoppie and run out and check real quick before the rear comes back down...lol) and start taking notes. I'll get a new bumpstop either way.

I, too, like to avoid making "permanent" changes before I've confirmed it's needed. Saves a crap-ton of time and money on things haha. Any time the sawzall comes out...$ signs replace my pupils on my eyes.

I do actually tow with this rig too. Granted, it isn't much, but I posted a pic in my intro thread of it loaded up. The goal is to load it up more at some point (or replace it entirely), but I need to consider towing when making these changes.

Here’s mine with a 2/3 for comparison.

Might be the incline of your driveway, but I feel like my rear is definitely lower based on the pic. I have less than 4" from tire to outer fender.

Wait, really? I thought that anything 3"+ needs the FT mod? I'm doing a 2/3" in the next couple weeks so this makes a big difference for me!

Based on just this thread alone, I'd at least get a low-pro bumpstop with a 3" drop. Sounds like there is close to factory compression on it and will give you a little breathing room. You'll already be back there.

 

[Drwinlied]

Sorry for the double post here, everyone. That last post was large, and re-reading your responses I have more to say (SHOCKER).

That looks more 3/5 then a 2/3. And the coil spring supports the load so even if the shocks are wore it shouldn't sit on the bump stops unless spring is wore out or is lower then 3" which is what it looks like

So if Hector is a 3/5, regardless of Spring & shock condition, FTM is necessary.
If he's 3/5 AND a spring or shock is bad, I should just switch to a spindle setup, as I'd replacing spring anyway...


EDIT:
OK. After digging around on Belltech site, I'm fairly confident the kit on Hector is the following:

Front And Rear Complete Kit W/ Street Performance Shocks
Part #: 738SP

having said that, I shouldn't be resting on the bumpstop in the rear (I mean, I shouldn't anyway haha)

EDIT 2:
Got some part#'s but can't find a match on the Belltech site. I'll get a hold of them early next week and see if they have any luck.

* Bumpstop#4925-001 (Belltech) - 2.75"H (edited in)
* Rear shock#410-002 (20 / 18) - note this is stamped on the part, as the sticker on it is worn off from the brake line rubbing; which is also a concern, but it's definitely a Belltech Street Performance shock. - Closest PN on the site is 2410FF; which is for vehicles with 3-5" drop

* Spring# 5323-001-F18 (Belltech) - 4" Drop (edited in)

The rear kit is all Belltech, but I can't get under it enough to find out what the front is. Doesn't say Belltech on it, it's "<something>-a-just" made in Japan. I'll dig into that.

 

[Big Mama]

Might be the auto ride. It airs up every time I back down the driveway.

 

[91RS]

Gas-A-Just is a KYB shock. They’re decent but wouldn’t be my first pick. I sure wouldn’t want mismatched brands front and rear though.

 

[iamdub]

IMO, FTM is necessary at 3"+ to maintain normal range of motion (ROM). It may not be absolutely required for the vehicle to be driven in a normal manner, but you're awfully close with a 3" drop and no FTM. You'll be fine if you have smooth roads and/or low speed limits. If you hit large bumps or dips at speed and/or tow anything, you'll be using/relying on them bump stops a lot more than you should.

Besides, we don't know for sure what rear drop you have. Those may be 4" (or more) drop coils but the rear isn't gonna drop any more cuz it's on the bump stops.

Yes, once you cut off the brackets, they're gone. Technically, if you don't destroy them, you could weld them back on if desired. I just don't see that ever happening. They'll be gone and you'll have your ROM and ride quality back and you'll never give it a second thought. If you or a future buyer lifts it, they won't be missed then, either.

Get the rear riding how it should and reassess. If the front feels harsh, then you have crappy lowering coils. Shocks don't control ride height, so worn shocks won't cause a vehicle sag.

 

[Drwinlied]

Gas-A-Just is a KYB shock. They’re decent but wouldn’t be my first pick. I sure wouldn’t want mismatched brands front and rear though.

Awesome. I'll look into replacing with a better set when the rear is sorted. Speaking of...

IMO, FTM is necessary at 3"+ to maintain normal range of motion (ROM)...

...Those may be 4" (or more) drop coils but the rear isn't gonna drop any more cuz it's on the bump stops....

...Get the rear riding how it should and reassess. If the front feels harsh, then you have crappy lowering coils. Shocks don't control ride height, so worn shocks won't cause a vehicle sag.

Just got off the phone with Belltech. rear springs are 4" drop. Seeing as I tow a small bit of weight, and the rear does sag/get pounded on at freeway speeds, I should do what someone suggested earlier and do the FTM and a low-pro bumpstop. The existing one is 2.75"H so we'll see if another 1.5" helps(that's what she said).

I'll be taking the "fix the rear, then deal with front", approach for sure.

Everyone has been awesome help. thank you