yes their is a lower Baro sensor RPO: LFA engine correct? or is it the RPO: LZ1?
it's hidden under the throttle body not inside it, but on the intake manifold
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Please help
- Thread starter Brady1287
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it's hidden under the throttle body not inside it, but on the intake manifold
Couldn't get a picture because of the engine cover and the way the air intake goes back the manifold but sure enough I believe I see said sensor. Passenger side, behind the throttle body? I'll be adding to the cart for when I swap the vlom, maybe sooner actually if that helps with said issues.
the oil leak is being caused by the fact the bolts out the factory were not torqued correctly at the vlom valley
also i recommend GETTING a AFM disable chip... and using 93 or 91 octane fuel ( a lot of others also recommend it) i can't trust the knock sensors
i'm getting 24 to 29mpg around town (hypemiling squeezing every drop of gas that means timing every traffic light and speed) with the 91 octane i found out the pump i was using had been charging me 3x the amount for gas ouch it was deposing less gas then what was being counted..
I switched to another gas pump after i figured that it was taking advantage or me ..
also i recommend GETTING a AFM disable chip... and using 93 or 91 octane fuel ( a lot of others also recommend it) i can't trust the knock sensors
i'm getting 24 to 29mpg around town (hypemiling squeezing every drop of gas that means timing every traffic light and speed) with the 91 octane i found out the pump i was using had been charging me 3x the amount for gas ouch it was deposing less gas then what was being counted..
I switched to another gas pump after i figured that it was taking advantage or me ..
Things went south FAST. Took it to the dealer for the rcdlr, I replaced it with the battery disconnected, wouldn't start. I replaced it back to the other one and then it would start up after disconnecting the battery again. Pull into the dealer service bay and replace it again so they can program the new one and again no start till I put the original back in and reconnect the battery. Well about 40 minutes later they come and get me saying it won't start. I go run codes on it and it's saying service hybrid system and codes are a lot. P0bbd, p1a1f, c0895, p0a1d, p0ac4, p0a45, p0c0b, p0c5c, p0c5d, p16f5, p1aee, p1afb, p1b01, p1ade, p0a1d, p0ac4, and p1afo. I'm not even sure where to start with this...replace 12v....check sensor connectors....buy a new hybrid battery. It's snowing a lot so idk if maybe a sensor or plug got wet or if the battery is about dead.
did they clean the battery terminals and that ground wire? how old is the 12v+ when you key on do you hear the HV relay click?.. see here No crank after dead 12v battery
see if they can charge up the HV battery using the tech2... as the battery is heavily discharged..(this is possible with the tech2).
Look for damaged wires in the wire bundle where the parking brake is
if all else fails swap in a 4.8 L and 6L40e BCM,ECM and TCM wire harness drive shaft, radiator, cluster ....
this is what i plan on doing it when the engine fails..
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No they only changed the airbag for a recall. Told me 200 for the rcdlr programming and then wanted an addition 375 to diagnose why it wouldnt work without a tune. I haven't cleaned or diagnosed anything yet, I was planning on doing all that myself here shortly. I'm starting to feel under the weather real fast so things might be on delay. Also when they brought the car back out it seemed all fine, no codes, no problems driving. Almost like it's a short or something that acts up under certain conditions. The battery is also less than 6 months old, the old one died so we replaced it. We haven't had any hybrid codes before the jump start so I'm hoping maybe the 12v got damaged
check this out https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2012/MC-10112581-9999.pdf need to find someone with a tech2 to reset the computer
I have found that my local GM service departments have very little knowledge about the two mode system. My local guys treat it like it is alien technology LOL My best guess on your problems with those listed codes is that most of your issues will be resolved by a new hybrid battery. I bit the bullet at around 200k and replaced the hybrid battery on mine with a refurbished battery for around 2500. I drove it quite a while with codes and the bump/jerk thing, that was not an enjoyable driving experience LOL.
it is now at around 256k and it has some issues but the hybrid battery is doing good "knock on wood".
Please come back and update the thread after you get the new battery in and let us know if that resolved anything.
it is now at around 256k and it has some issues but the hybrid battery is doing good "knock on wood".
Please come back and update the thread after you get the new battery in and let us know if that resolved anything.
Which AFM disable chip manufacturer works with the Hybrid? All I have reached out to said they would not work.
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