Oil Pressures with Meiling pump

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JDopirak

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Hello,

So i finally got around to installing dod delete, heads, cam and all parts that go along with that.

My concern in that TSP sold me the Meiling 10296 and my idle pressure is 42psi and at 4k im at 82psi i have not gone WOT yet because i haven't had it tuned yet. I plugged the pressure relief valve in the oil pan like everyone said to do. The only thing i did out of the ordinary is installed new cam bearings I know that will raise the pressure a little.

TSP said that , That pressure is fine as long as it doesn't go above 100psi. What are your thoughts?
What are everyone's pressures that are running an aftermarket oil pump?

Truck is 09 Yukon 5.3 115k.
 

swathdiver

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Hello,

So i finally got around to installing dod delete, heads, cam and all parts that go along with that.

My concern in that TSP sold me the Meiling 10296 and my idle pressure is 42psi and at 4k im at 82psi i have not gone WOT yet because i haven't had it tuned yet. I plugged the pressure relief valve in the oil pan like everyone said to do. The only thing i did out of the ordinary is installed new cam bearings I know that will raise the pressure a little.

TSP said that , That pressure is fine as long as it doesn't go above 100psi. What are your thoughts?
What are everyone's pressures that are running an aftermarket oil pump?

Truck is 09 Yukon 5.3 115k.

Joe, is this an LMG or an LC9? Seems to high either way and if an LC9, they sold you the wrong oil pump.

Every man ought to commit this article to memory:

https://www.enginebuildermag.com/wp...es/03_01_2012/986163348GMGENI_00000054947.pdf
 

kbuskill

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Hello,

So i finally got around to installing dod delete, heads, cam and all parts that go along with that.

My concern in that TSP sold me the Meiling 10296 and my idle pressure is 42psi and at 4k im at 82psi i have not gone WOT yet because i haven't had it tuned yet. I plugged the pressure relief valve in the oil pan like everyone said to do. The only thing i did out of the ordinary is installed new cam bearings I know that will raise the pressure a little.

TSP said that , That pressure is fine as long as it doesn't go above 100psi. What are your thoughts?
What are everyone's pressures that are running an aftermarket oil pump?

Truck is 09 Yukon 5.3 115k.

I installed the Mellings HV/HP oil pump in my '08 Burb with the LMG 5.3l flex fuel engine. LMG came with HV pump from the factory, just FYI.

It was producing 70-75psi at cold idle and about 60-65psi at operating temperature.

The ECM didn't like seeing such high pressures and kept setting the check engine light for oil pressure out of range.

I ended up using a resistor to alter the signal going to the ECM so it would stop setting the CEL.

I still have the pressure relief valve in the pan though.

It has been this way for 65k miles now with zero issues. UOA is always fine and I run extended OCIs (13k-15k miles).
 
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iamdub

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The 10296 is high pressure and high volume. Higher volume through more restriction (tight bearing clearances) will lead to higher pressure. Your bearing clearances are good, so you don't need so much volume. A stock pump would've been fine, and the M295 is the stock equivalent/replacement. I'm betting that 10296 has a red spring in it and it would've been fine if you had swapped in the lower psi spring or even the spring from your original pump. ThePCM won't like it, as Ken mentioned. But, mechanically speaking, ~80 psi isn't gonna make things suddenly "blow up". Extended time above it can blow out seals and the oil filter would likely be the first to go. I'd run a 5w-20 full synthetic and quality filter (Wix, Mobil1 or K&N) and see if anything improves.
 
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JDopirak

JDopirak

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The 10296 is high pressure and high volume. Higher volume through more restriction (tight bearing clearances) will lead to higher pressure. Your bearing clearances are good, so you don't need so much volume. A stock pump would've been fine, and the M295 is the stock equivalent/replacement. I'm betting that 10296 has a red spring in it and it would've been fine if you had swapped in the lower psi spring or even the spring from your original pump. ThePCM won't like it, as Ken mentioned. But, mechanically speaking, ~80 psi isn't gonna make things suddenly "blow up". Extended time above it can blow out seals and the oil filter would likely be the first to go. I'd run a 5w-20 full synthetic and quality filter (Wix, Mobil1 or K&N) and see if anything improves.


We pulled the red spring out and installed the blue spring due to the fact we installed new cam bearings. Before all of this work my oil pressure was great , Around 35psi warm idle and 65psi wot. That is why i i thought it was odd when my buddy said my cam bearings where bad and so we replaced them. They where showing bronze/copper on the bottom side.
 
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JDopirak

JDopirak

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I installed the Mellings HV/HP oil pump in my '08 Burb with the LMG 5.3l flex fuel engine. LMG came with HV pump from the factory, just FYI.

It was producing 70-75psi at cold idle and about 60-65psi at operating temperature.

The ECM didn't like seeing such high pressures and kept setting the check engine light for oil pressure out of range.

I ended up using a resistor to alter the signal going to the ECM so it would stop setting the CEL.

I still have the pressure relief valve in the pan though.

It has been this way for 65k miles now with zero issues. UOA is always fine and I run extended OCIs (13k-15k miles).


Im starting to think i should drop the pan and put the pressure relief back in as a caution. What is your max psi at wot?
 

kbuskill

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Im starting to think i should drop the pan and put the pressure relief back in as a caution. What is your max psi at wot?

Good question. The resistor I installed inline with the pressure sensor drops the perceived pressure about 15 psi and under WOT it reads about 65-70 psi... so my guess is actual pressure is around 80-85 psi.

This is all as best as I can remember... I don't go WOT very often... 3/4 most of the time.
 
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iamdub

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Im starting to think i should drop the pan and put the pressure relief back in as a caution. What is your max psi at wot?

AFAIK, that valve is supposed to operate like a pop-off on an air compressor and should open at or near 55 psi. So, this is probably your most sensible option. Be sure to add the deflector shield so the oil doesn't spray and cause consumption issues.
 
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JDopirak

JDopirak

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Good question. The resistor I installed inline with the pressure sensor drops the perceived pressure about 15 psi and under WOT it reads about 65-70 psi... so my guess is actual pressure is around 80-85 psi.

This is all as best as I can remember... I don't go WOT very often... 3/4 most of the time.

Any long term oil leaks caused by high oil pressures?
 

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