Oil pan mess up gasket?

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Hey guys so I posted this on Facebook tahoe group and got very few responses so I take that to mean no one knows what I'm talking about mayne you guys are smarter. I had an oil pan leak that got so bad I was losing 2 quarts a week. Do i gave in and decided to change the oil pan gasket and also the pick up tube o ring. I took it all apart cleaned everything examined everything I looked at the rear main seal it was all dry front of transmission was dry cleaned it all and put it back together. The videos I watched said when I put the gasket on it only need a little bit 9f the right stuff permatex in the 4 corners of the gasket where the hash marks are so thats all I did and i put it back together. I ran the car the next day and it was smoking out the exhaust a white smoke so bad I thought something was on fire. It went away and I saw no oil dripping either. But somehow I lost 2 quarts of oil again a week later. Where the hell is it going? My valve cover is weeping but not that bad. I had someone say I was supposed to put the permatex across the whole end of the gasket that went under the oil pump. Is that true? When I took the old one off it was so caked in permatex on the end I practically had to cut it out. I thought that was contri using to the original leak. What did I do wrong? I'm so scared of blowing up my motor I went a got a 2000 denali winter beater until I can rebuild my motor with new gaskets. Please someone help!!!!!
 

PG01

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So, no oil dripping anymore and smoke out the exhaust? You have valve seal proms or need rings. Is the smoke out the exhaust bluish?
 

randeez

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if you put a brand new pan gasket on, you should only need to put permatex in the corners where the front and rear covers meet the block and the pan overlaps all of it. that is....IF the front and rear covers are aligned on the block properly, and not set way above or below the block skirt line.

most likely someone tried to slow the oil leak down by caking permatex on the outside of the pan thats why you had so much to remove.

burning oil and leaking oil are two separate things, fixing a pan gasket should have no bearing on the engine now burning oil. was the smoke just from oil left on the exhaust and burning off?
 

Rocket Man

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The RTV only goes at the 4 small areas you mentioned so you did it right. You must have something else going on besides a leak. Does it smoke at start up after sitting? That would point at valve seals. How many miles on this engine?
 
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The RTV only goes at the 4 small areas you mentioned so you did it right. You must have something else going on besides a leak. Does it smoke at start up after sitting? That would point at valve seals. How many miles on this engine?
Almost 200k. I thought it was in pretty good condition. But maybe not. My dad rode in it yesterday and said maybe the piston rings were letting oil thru. Also my valve cover on one side is weeping oil all over my spark plugs and wires. Everytime you get done driving theres a serious burn smell too. How do I know which it is valves or piston rings? Is it still drivable? What all should I add to my rebuild? I was doing all new gaskets cam valve stems cleaning up everything springs chain blah blah all the usual stuff. And it all has to be done while motor is in truck becasue I don't have the ability or garage to pull it out. I'm taking the fenders of the truck tho to ease reach. What am I missing?
 

Rocket Man

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Fix the leaks first. Rings can be checked by a compression test. You might want to do that after fixing the leak before you decide on the fate of the motor. If the rings are bad there’s no use in doing all the other stuff unless you want to do a complete engine rebuild. You can drive as long as you want, just keep the oil filled. You said you’re doing “cam valve stems, chains, springs, blah blah” - what do you mean?
 

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