West 1
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It is not a pressure problem caused by the oil pump. You have a leak. I just re watched this on a 21" screen. Your leak starts dripping at several oil pan bolts on both sides of the oil pan? This tells me the oil pan gasket is not sealing the pan to the block at all. I bet you could slip a feeler gauge maybe .020 thick along the top of the gasket and slip it into the block. Nothing else will leak on both sides of your block. With the engine running there is oil throw off at the connecting rods in normal operation. This oil splash is the pistons only oil supply. If the pan is not sealed this same splash can get out of the engine past the pan gasket along with all other oil draining back down from the top of the engine.
Any chance the oil pan bolts are bottoming out in the block before the gasket is clamped tight? You could remove the bolts one at a time and use high pressure air and maybe a wire to probe up there and make sure some old gasket or dirt is not jammed in the bottom of those oil pan bolt holes.
Second mechanical issue to rule out. The Oil pan gasket has torque limiting sleeves at each bolt hole. IF by chance those sleeves are the wrong height the gasket can't crush into place and seal. With all the low priced pan gaskets out there you might find the wrong sized torque limiters in your gasket. In that case all bolts torque properly but the gasket has never been crushed into place allowing leaks all around the oil pan.
If you torqued the Tranny to the oil pan using those big bolts first the oil pan would not be able to move up into place as designed and will leak or the pan will break.
You have to bring the oil pan up to snug by hand with all the oil pan bolts first then get your 2 large tranny bolts in and screw them down till almost snug. At this point I loosen all the oil pan small bolts maybe one full turn. This will allow the oil pan to slide back as the tranny to oil pan 2 large blots are tightened to pull the pan back to its needed position. Now loosen the 2 large tranny to oil pan bolts maybe one full turn but no more. This will let the oil pan properly slide up while properly positioned to the rear. Now you have it pulled it back where it needs to be against the tranny.
At this point you have the pan positioned to the rear, back against the tranny as needed. Now slowly torque by proper sequence the 10mm Pan bolts till all are fully torqued with a torque wrench in 3 steps. The short 10mm bolts torque to 18 ft pounds or 216 inch pounds. The long 2 bolts at the rear tighten to 106 inch pounds. Torque all these and the pan is now up and torqued. Lastly, torque the tranny to oil pan 2 large bolts to 44 ft pounds ( verify this spec I may be off on these 2 bolts ) knowing you have the pan up and torqued and also back in proper position.
It is all about the sequence and evenly bringing that pan up and back into proper position before final torquing the bolts. A lot of oil pans are broken by guys not following the steps.
It takes maybe an extra 20 minutes but you can do it this way or fail. With all the new style battery powered impact wrenches you can exceed 216 inch pounds in one short burp and things go very wrong.
So far I have always used the Fel Pro oil pan gasket for these LS engines. Have not had one leak from the oil pan gasket yet and have not cracked one oil pan yet.
GM sells many of these oil pans because guys don't take the time to learn the proper install procedure.
Maybe I am super careful knowing these pans are touchy but I do final torque in 3 steps to keep from tweaking the aluminum oil pan and breaking it. If final toque is 216 inch pounds, for the short 10mm bolts I would do a first pass at maybe 55 inch pounds following proper torque sequence jumping all around the pan as all bolts are brought down to 55 inch pounds, then I would repeat at 100 or so. Final pass at 216 and the 10 mm bolts are good. The very long 10 mm bolts have a little different torque spec, these two long bolts at the rear are only 106 inch pounds torque and I bring these to final torque only after all the short 10mm bolts are all at 216 inch pounds.
To finish I torque the large 15mm tranny to oil pan bolts last and it is done, 44 ft pounds?. If your eyes can see any gap between the tranny and the oil pan before doing this final torque that would be a problem that can break the pan. The pan should have slipped back into proper position tight against the tranny prior to this step if it not in proper postion loosen all pan bolts and re position again. No choice. This step should never happen but if it does start over.
Somewhere in this note I think you will find what went wrong on your install. Hope it helps.
Any chance the oil pan bolts are bottoming out in the block before the gasket is clamped tight? You could remove the bolts one at a time and use high pressure air and maybe a wire to probe up there and make sure some old gasket or dirt is not jammed in the bottom of those oil pan bolt holes.
Second mechanical issue to rule out. The Oil pan gasket has torque limiting sleeves at each bolt hole. IF by chance those sleeves are the wrong height the gasket can't crush into place and seal. With all the low priced pan gaskets out there you might find the wrong sized torque limiters in your gasket. In that case all bolts torque properly but the gasket has never been crushed into place allowing leaks all around the oil pan.
If you torqued the Tranny to the oil pan using those big bolts first the oil pan would not be able to move up into place as designed and will leak or the pan will break.
You have to bring the oil pan up to snug by hand with all the oil pan bolts first then get your 2 large tranny bolts in and screw them down till almost snug. At this point I loosen all the oil pan small bolts maybe one full turn. This will allow the oil pan to slide back as the tranny to oil pan 2 large blots are tightened to pull the pan back to its needed position. Now loosen the 2 large tranny to oil pan bolts maybe one full turn but no more. This will let the oil pan properly slide up while properly positioned to the rear. Now you have it pulled it back where it needs to be against the tranny.
At this point you have the pan positioned to the rear, back against the tranny as needed. Now slowly torque by proper sequence the 10mm Pan bolts till all are fully torqued with a torque wrench in 3 steps. The short 10mm bolts torque to 18 ft pounds or 216 inch pounds. The long 2 bolts at the rear tighten to 106 inch pounds. Torque all these and the pan is now up and torqued. Lastly, torque the tranny to oil pan 2 large bolts to 44 ft pounds ( verify this spec I may be off on these 2 bolts ) knowing you have the pan up and torqued and also back in proper position.
It is all about the sequence and evenly bringing that pan up and back into proper position before final torquing the bolts. A lot of oil pans are broken by guys not following the steps.
It takes maybe an extra 20 minutes but you can do it this way or fail. With all the new style battery powered impact wrenches you can exceed 216 inch pounds in one short burp and things go very wrong.
So far I have always used the Fel Pro oil pan gasket for these LS engines. Have not had one leak from the oil pan gasket yet and have not cracked one oil pan yet.
GM sells many of these oil pans because guys don't take the time to learn the proper install procedure.
Maybe I am super careful knowing these pans are touchy but I do final torque in 3 steps to keep from tweaking the aluminum oil pan and breaking it. If final toque is 216 inch pounds, for the short 10mm bolts I would do a first pass at maybe 55 inch pounds following proper torque sequence jumping all around the pan as all bolts are brought down to 55 inch pounds, then I would repeat at 100 or so. Final pass at 216 and the 10 mm bolts are good. The very long 10 mm bolts have a little different torque spec, these two long bolts at the rear are only 106 inch pounds torque and I bring these to final torque only after all the short 10mm bolts are all at 216 inch pounds.
To finish I torque the large 15mm tranny to oil pan bolts last and it is done, 44 ft pounds?. If your eyes can see any gap between the tranny and the oil pan before doing this final torque that would be a problem that can break the pan. The pan should have slipped back into proper position tight against the tranny prior to this step if it not in proper postion loosen all pan bolts and re position again. No choice. This step should never happen but if it does start over.
Somewhere in this note I think you will find what went wrong on your install. Hope it helps.
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