Odd Starting Issues, Fuel Pump? Starter? Ignition Switch?

lotas

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Hey All,

I have read a bunch of similar threads but need some help with my specific situation.

2005 GMC Yukon XL 1500 SLT

Drove around for two hours Sat night, truck sat Sunday and when I went to go to the store Sunday night and turned the key the engine was cranking, but would not turn over. Tried it again and it was sputtering and shaking a bit and wouldn't fully start up, sounding like it was trying to start but wasn't getting enough fuel or something.

I assumed the fuel pump was the issue as it was cranking fine and didn't seem to be an electrical issue w/battery or starter.

The next day I go to start it again just for the hell of it and it fires up and runs no problem. I let it run for about 15-20 mins to see if it's going to sputter and die or anything and it ran normal, obviously getting fuel.

Now here is where it gets weird.
Last night I start it and it fires up with no problem. Make a run to McD's for the kids and return home, it ran fine w/no issues.

Go to start it again that night and when I turn the key it's just clicking, sounds like the battery or starter is dead. I try again and get a single click, and then everything dies. Interior lights/accs were on when I opened the door but after the attempt to start it everything went out and would not come back, dash would not light up or respond to the key after that.

The battery is only a year old from Costco -- I charged the battery up and it was around 12.8v so I don't think that's the issue.

What does this sound like to you guys? If the starter is dead, how come the first time I had an issue it was sputtering and sounded like a fuel issue? Is it possible the starter and fuel pump are both going out or is there something I'm missing that could be affecting both fuel/electrical systems?

I appreciate any help you can offer and am grateful to have found this forum!
 

MassHoe04

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To re-cap what you have:
Cranked, started, sputtering and rough.
Cranked, but no start sometimes (but started and ran other times).
No crank, no start.

My thoughts:
Intermittent or bad ground connections can disrupt ignition, fuel pump, injectors and many other systems that can cause the truck to do what yours is doing.

I just came from having a Jeep TJ. I have learned that poor grounds can bring everything down at random times and be the cause for many headaches.
Power from a battery to any is no good to any system on a vehicle, unless proper grounds can complete the circuit.

Do yourself a favor... Inspect the battery cables (wires and terminal clamps). Make sure terminal connections and the other end connections are clean and tight (especially the negative cable/ground).
Take a peak under the insulation at the end of the negative battery cable (bend it or make a small cut in the insulation so you can see the copper strands).
Sometimes the wires look fine on the outside and end up being all corroded inside the insulation.

It could possibly involve the ignition switch, but I would check all main grounds before pulling the trigger and buying an ignition switch. Checking, cleaning and making ground connections tight will cost nothing, unless you need new cables.

Good luck!
 
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lotas

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Ignition switch sounds like the culprit for all your symptoms. They are stupid easy top replace and not too expensive.
Man this would be great news -- I sincerely hope this is what it is. Looks like a $40 part

One thing I forgot to mention is when my car fired up yesterday and I took the trip to McD's, the clock was reset as if the battery was drained or disconnected and reconnected. Yet it had enough juice to start...


Is it possible if the ignition switch is bad it could drain the battery somehow?
 

lotas

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To re-cap what you have:
Cranked, started, sputtering and rough.
Cranked, but no start sometimes (but started and ran other times).
No crank, no start.

My thoughts:
Intermittent or bad ground connections can disrupt ignition, fuel pump, injectors and many other systems that can cause the truck to do what yours is doing.

I just came from having a Jeep TJ. I have learned that poor grounds can bring everything down at random times and be the cause for many headaches.
Power from a battery to any is no good to any system on a vehicle, unless proper grounds can complete the circuit.

Do yourself a favor... Inspect the battery cables (wires and terminal clamps). Make sure terminal connections and the other end connections are clean and tight (especially the negative cable/ground).
Take a peak under the insulation at the end of the negative battery cable (bend it or make a small cut in the insulation so you can see the copper strands).
Sometimes the wires look fine on the outside and end up being all corroded inside the insulation.

It could possibly involve the ignition switch, but I would check all main grounds before pulling the trigger and buying an ignition switch. Checking, cleaning and making ground connections tight will cost nothing, unless you need new cables.

Good luck!
Awesome man thank you for the detailed response, I will check these connections when I get home and make sure everything looks clean and isn't corroded.
 

MassHoe04

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Awesome man thank you for the detailed response, I will check these connections when I get home and make sure everything looks clean and isn't corroded.
I have not looked on mine, but I am told there is another ground located on the inside frame rail on the driver's side. In line with the A pillar or where the door/fender meet. I have heard that ground connection can also cause additional electrical gremlins as well.

Jeep TJ's can be famous for electrical disruptions that come and go with different results on what system decides to act up at that moment. I can't tell you how many people chase parts around and spend tons of money, only to find out the systems had one or more crappy ground connections or corroded wires. I decided to head things off at the pass, by replacing main battery and alternator cables with a new set. In the two years after the upgrade, had no problems that were electrical after doing that. Started and ran reliably as a daily driver I could depend on. Prior to the new cable set... I had a no-crank/no-start issue. Turned out to be corrosion inside the small signal wire from the ignition to the starter solenoid and the negative battery/ground cable. Looked fine outside, but the wire strands were green, black and white inside. Every color, except shiny copper! Over the years, water and salt crept under the insulation jacket and worked their destructive magic.
 

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