GSDunk
TYF Newbie
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2017
- Posts
- 25
- Reaction score
- 15
A couple of weeks ago, I posted about a no start/no crank problem where the engine completely shut off coming into a stoplight at about 10 mph.
Well I appreciate all the posts and its sure great to have a place like this to talk Yukons and Tahoes when something goes wrong with your rig and you're clueless what to do next. Youtube is unbelievable for sure, but its cool talking to real people about our truck problems. instead of strictly only watching how-to videos.
Its great using both resources.
Anyway, since I have no test equipment and refuse to pay the 300 for the diagnostic and another $250-$1000 to have a certified Chevy/GMC guy do the actual repair, I did it the idiots way.
I went to YouTube to try to find as many videos as I could dealing with exact symptoms and model years.
As I found out, the 2003 5.3 L seems to have this problem more than some of the other model years.
Since I could find no visable loose or broken wires and no sign of a questionable ground anywhere, I was convinced it was the ignition switch. And only $33 bucks and extremely easy to install.
It wasn't the ignition switch.
So I watched more video.
And I found one lone Video and guy talks about how he's seen this many times where the yellow 20 amp PCM B fuse blows.
The first day I started working on this, I spent an hour looking at all the fuses that had anything to do with ignition or crank but never thought to check PCM B fuse.
And checking the fuse, sure enough it was blown. So I popped in another 20 amp fuse turned the ignition and finally!! The engine cranks and also runs and the fuse seemed to be holding on magically. But as I'm running the engine to charge the battery up, it died about 2 or 3 minutes latter. Again the PCM B fuse is blown.
So I'm guessing there's a short somewhere between the fuse and the fuel pump.
But me being lazy and not wanting to dig around inside those corrogated wire tubes looking for shorts or even rat chewed wires.
Nope, I took the easy route and only made sure all the connections at the various harness locations were tight and secure.
In other words, I did nothing. And since I had no more spare 20 amp fuses plug in, I used a 15 and turned the ignition with my fingers crossed.
It fired right up and has worked normally for over 24 hrs and is running exactly the way it did before.
I've cranked the ignition on more than a dozen times since getting it started yesterday and no issues so far...... But I am expecting the fuse to blow again.... I'm not convinced I did anything to rectify the problem.... just a bandaid for a few days
Well I appreciate all the posts and its sure great to have a place like this to talk Yukons and Tahoes when something goes wrong with your rig and you're clueless what to do next. Youtube is unbelievable for sure, but its cool talking to real people about our truck problems. instead of strictly only watching how-to videos.
Its great using both resources.
Anyway, since I have no test equipment and refuse to pay the 300 for the diagnostic and another $250-$1000 to have a certified Chevy/GMC guy do the actual repair, I did it the idiots way.
I went to YouTube to try to find as many videos as I could dealing with exact symptoms and model years.
As I found out, the 2003 5.3 L seems to have this problem more than some of the other model years.
Since I could find no visable loose or broken wires and no sign of a questionable ground anywhere, I was convinced it was the ignition switch. And only $33 bucks and extremely easy to install.
It wasn't the ignition switch.
So I watched more video.
And I found one lone Video and guy talks about how he's seen this many times where the yellow 20 amp PCM B fuse blows.
The first day I started working on this, I spent an hour looking at all the fuses that had anything to do with ignition or crank but never thought to check PCM B fuse.
And checking the fuse, sure enough it was blown. So I popped in another 20 amp fuse turned the ignition and finally!! The engine cranks and also runs and the fuse seemed to be holding on magically. But as I'm running the engine to charge the battery up, it died about 2 or 3 minutes latter. Again the PCM B fuse is blown.
So I'm guessing there's a short somewhere between the fuse and the fuel pump.
But me being lazy and not wanting to dig around inside those corrogated wire tubes looking for shorts or even rat chewed wires.
Nope, I took the easy route and only made sure all the connections at the various harness locations were tight and secure.
In other words, I did nothing. And since I had no more spare 20 amp fuses plug in, I used a 15 and turned the ignition with my fingers crossed.
It fired right up and has worked normally for over 24 hrs and is running exactly the way it did before.
I've cranked the ignition on more than a dozen times since getting it started yesterday and no issues so far...... But I am expecting the fuse to blow again.... I'm not convinced I did anything to rectify the problem.... just a bandaid for a few days
