New 2024 Yukon XL Denali

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Vinmega

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Hi All,
New to the forum, but not new to GM.
I have a 2018 Suburban and just got a 2024 GMC Yukon XL Denali.
I see alot about the 6.2 and all the failures.
I have the range technologies device coming tomorrow that goes into the ECU (behind wheel well on driver side) and disables the stop start and DFM.
My question is, this motor has been made for ages.
Is the real issue the DFM crap?
My truck has 15 miles on the odometer and I am a maintenace hawk.
I plan on changing out engine oil at 1k miles and then again at 5k regular intervals.
I am really enjoying the 6.2, total upgrade from the 5.3
Also, is there no way to check the trans fluid other than getting under the car and opening the bolt on the back of the pan? No dipstick in this?
 
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blanchard7684

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No dipstick on trans. The fluid check isn't all that bad. What sucks though is the exhaust cross over right across the pan. It is a massive PITA to get pan off. Only thing that mitigates this is the gen 2 10 spd really seems to keep the fluid ice cold.

There is alot of discussion here in different threads about the nature of the 6.2 failures.

"bad batch of parts" seems to be running out of steam as a culprit because this issue is going on for years now and the bearings that fail are typically the front mains and connecting rods. It doesn't take an OEM years to figure out where the manufacturing defect is on engine parts.

Bearing failures started showing up in 2021.

There are some videos showing what the bearings look like and it appears to be overloading or incipient oil starvation.

Oil pump has changed from previous 6.2 and coincides with DFM. It is a two stage oil pump as before, but is a different part number. It is a vane type oil pump. The 5.3 and 6.2 have different oil control solenoids.

Some folks here are reporting that the 6.2 is frequently running at low rpm and high torque. With 0w20 this is an operating scenario that doesn't have much safety factor, to put it very mildly. This is a heavily loaded set of bearings. Other applications of the 6.2 specify 0w40. The failures on SUVs seems to be a bit higher than other applications that have lower curb weight.

The 5.3 has not had even a fraction of the failures. It operates at a bit higher rpms and has lower loading on the bearings.

The 5.3 bearings, crank, and rods are extremely similar. Main difference is the bore size.

Fuel dilution that is inherent on the DI engines is a major contributing factor.

Low speed preignition is also a background issue on DI engines that can put even more load on the bearings.

Throw in longer oil change intervals and some oil consumption and there is loss of any safety factor.

DFM likely makes the issue worse by putting a higher load on fewer bearings.

To complicate things there are a good number of failures before the first oil change, and some that are upwards of 20,000 miles.

This tells me that there isn't a single issue going on.

I haven't seen a failure yet that came from someone who changed oil at or before 5000 miles, had DFM disabled, and also used 5w-30 or 0w-40.
 

jfoj

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Welcome to the 6.2l club.

For all the 6.2l owners that have "6.2l Range Anxiety", not how long between fill up, how long between engine failure, Suggestions for "Range Anxiety"

Only things I would suggest to change or do differently.

Change the oil at 500 miles, run 5W30 or 0W40 engine oil, add a JL Catch Can, probably the easiest and quickest to install.

Get a magnetic drain plug. Magnetic Drain Plug

Change the oil when the OLM hits 50% or around 3000 miles.

DO NOT start the engine and allow it to warm up, allow the RPM's to drop, 20-30 seconds, then drive the truck.

These engines take over 30 minutes to get the engine oil up to engine coolant temp at 50F ambient, I will hopefully have more data for higher ambient temps once the weather warms up. Short drives will kill these engines due to fuel dilution of the oil.

Enjoy otherwise as there is only so much you can do to counter potential failure, but maintenance and how the vehicle is used plays into this engine lifespan a lot.
 
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Vinmega

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Thank you both for the reply and the welcome. I got this for the wife. Good mix of highway and local for her.
I am going to run 0w-40 which is good prevention.

(funny thing is on my Benz I had to go to 0w-40 to end a valve tick that 5w-30 was causing)

I put the range disabler on today (took like 10 mins to install) but have not driven it yet.
How can I find the engine build date? The oil smells a little gassey and is factory oil.
Thanks!
 

DontTaseMeBro

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Welcome to the 6.2l club.

For all the 6.2l owners that have "6.2l Range Anxiety", not how long between fill up, how long between engine failure, Suggestions for "Range Anxiety"

Only things I would suggest to change or do differently.

Change the oil at 500 miles, run 5W30 or 0W40 engine oil, add a JL Catch Can, probably the easiest and quickest to install.

Get a magnetic drain plug. Magnetic Drain Plug

Change the oil when the OLM hits 50% or around 3000 miles.

DO NOT start the engine and allow it to warm up, allow the RPM's to drop, 20-30 seconds, then drive the truck.

These engines take over 30 minutes to get the engine oil up to engine coolant temp at 50F ambient, I will hopefully have more data for higher ambient temps once the weather warms up. Short drives will kill these engines due to fuel dilution of the oil.

Enjoy otherwise as there is only so much you can do to counter potential failure, but maintenance and how the vehicle is used plays into this engine lifespan a lot.

So what other option do we have regarding getting the engine up to temp? Ain’t nobody gonna wait 30 minutes for their engine to full warm up in their driveway before leaving.
 

jfoj

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@Vinmega

Does not surprise me that the oil might smell a bit like fuel on a new vehicle. The engine has never been fully warmed up since it was built. The start up and test at final assembly, and the multiple starts in the storage lot before loading on the transporter and the multiple starts around the dealer, a short trip to a local gas station to full the tank, all have never fully warmed the engine up.

Would be a great test to pull and oil sample from some of the brand new vehicles to check fuel dilution in the oil. Best to get the vehicle and drive it at least 45 minutes continuous and try to get on the highway for at least 15 minutes. When I purchased my vehicle it had 8 miles on it. The dealer was 50 miles from where I live and all but about 8 miles was highway, so the first drive was clearly enough to warm up the engine and engine oil well. The bulk of my driving is either minimum 30 minute plus round trips, or I start the engine and drive 2 1/2 hours to 6 hours straight at a time.

Not sure if there is a way to disable the remote start feature in the settings on the Infotainment system, but try to break the wife from using the Remote Start feature regularly. Start the engine, allow the RPM to drop down, 20-30 seconds depending on temp, then drive is the best thing you can do.

Make sure the wife tries to not run a bunch of short 5-10 minute trips without getting on the highway fairly often. Change the oil by the 50% OLM indicator.

Good luck and enjoy, you are starting out doing the best you can to protect the engine.
 

jfoj

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Whoa, DO NO WARM THE ENGINE UP IN THE DRIVEWAY, this is what I am trying to caution every about, this is the worse thing you can do for an engine. Start the engine, allow the RPM to drop, usually 20-30 seconds depending on outside temp, put the vehicle in gear and drive.

The engine and engine oil will warm up quicker while driving when compared to idle. The point I was making about 30 minute drives, is it take the engine oil at least 30 minutes driving to even even match the engine coolant temperature depending on the outside temperature. I have data for 50F outside temps, the oil warm up time may be quicker at higher outside temps, I am waiting for the weather to change to gather that data and will post it at some point.

Look over the graphs and comments in this link - Engine And Oil Temp Info
 

DontTaseMeBro

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@DontTaseMeBro

Whoa, DO NO WARM THE ENGINE UP IN THE DRIVEWAY, this is what I am trying to caution every about, this is the worse thing you can do for an engine. Start the engine, allow the RPM to drop, usually 20-30 seconds depending on outside temp, put the vehicle in gear and drive.

The engine and engine oil will warm up quicker while driving when compared to idle. The point I was making about 30 minute drives, is it take the engine oil at least 30 minutes driving to even even match the engine coolant temperature depending on the outside temperature. I have data for 50F outside temps, the oil warm up time may be quicker at higher outside temps, I am waiting for the weather to change to gather that data and will post it at some point.

Look over the graphs and comments in this link - Engine And Oil Temp Info

Ah ok that’s what I do. Just let the RPM’s dip and then go. I’m aware of fuel dilution due to the oil not being up to temp. This is another reason why oil changes are done every 3000 miles with me.
 
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Vinmega

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THanks for the intel everyone.
Tihs bad boy is still in the break in period, so we have been driving nice and easy....not over 55mph and rpms staying below like 2k.....at 500 miles ill change the oil for some mobil 1 0w-40.
I also got a JL oil seperator, and ill install it this week.....
When I got the truck I noticed the brake fluid was low, so I had them top it off.....
 

WalleyeMikeIII

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THanks for the intel everyone.
Tihs bad boy is still in the break in period, so we have been driving nice and easy....not over 55mph and rpms staying below like 2k.....at 500 miles ill change the oil for some mobil 1 0w-40.
I also got a JL oil seperator, and ill install it this week.....
When I got the truck I noticed the brake fluid was low, so I had them top it off.....
If it’s mostly for the wife, make sure you are running premium fuel too…91 min, 93 preferred
 

viven44

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Make sure the wife tries to not run a bunch of short 5-10 minute trips without getting on the highway fairly often.
Second this. Much to my wife’s chagrin we rarely use our 2024 for short trips, and rely on our 02 Yukon for anything 20 mins or shorter. I had made my wishes clear even when we had our 2018 that we would rely on one of our port injected or carbureted clunkers for short trips.
 
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Vinmega

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The 93 fuel is something she was complaining about, but what does she care...LOL.
Sadly, this will be for short trips mostly and probably sit idiing for a while from time to time.
I will get in it and open it up once a week get it going.
THey dont sell a constant oil pump for this truck to replace the variable one?
 

jfoj

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I am guessing sitting is car pool lines or waiting on kids during activities for the longer idle periods?

As for the oil pump, here is the deal, all the oil pumps are variable output on these engines for the past 10+ years as I recall, the difference is the 6.2l has a 2 stage controller on top of the variable output pump. For some reason the L84 5.3l for dropped the 2 stage controller/solenoid. All the prior generations seemed to have the 2 stage solenoids even the 4.8l as I recall.
Not sure how all the dash guages are set up for displaying oil pressure. My Denali did not have oil pressure shown at all until I went into the Gauge/Dash setting and chose I think "Advanced" then the only additional gauge that showed up was oil pressure as I recall. The oil pressure guage is 0 to 120 PSI with a open space in the middle which would be 60 PSI. No other markings, hash marks or numbers.

I have a number of OBDII tools that will query the oil pressure. For some reason GM had a different type of sensor up until 2004, then changed starting in 2005. So the issue here is there is a difference in the Oil Pressure PID calculation between the vehicles up to 2004 and then 2005+. The calculation difference is 14 PSI. So on a few of my tools when I choose the 2024 vehicle I was a disappointed with the oil pressure numbers the tool was displaying. Then I used another tool that only displayed the oil pressure when choosing 2004 and earlier vehicles, this values was higher. Then after really paying attention to the dash gauge, the higher values now seems correct. I think some of the other tools must have used the pre 2005 PID calculation which is likey wrong. I believe a heathy 6.2l with the variable displacement oil pump with the 2 stage feature is satisfactory as long as you are not running 0W20 oil. I would really like to get a mechanical guage on the engine to verify the correct value, but I am starting to think the higher value I am measuring now (14 PSI higher) is correct.

Below are a few graphs.

The 1st graph note how the oil pressure starts to drop in the beginning as the oil continues to warm up. I had already driven about 15 minutes before I even started to gather data. I was in a drive thru where the long idle is in the beginning. I often put the transmission in Neutral when I am sitting in drive thru's and longer traffic lights. The lowest oil pressure value in at the end of the long idle is 37 PSI. While cruising at about 40-45 MPH because I am in a semi rural area, the oil pressure typically is around 42-56 PSI depending on RPM and load. Then later in the drive you will see a dip in oil pressure for a short period, I was stopped at a traffic light for a bit. By this time, the oil was up to 212F and at idle the oil pressure lowest value was 33 PSI. There was another short drop in RPM and oil pressure near the of the trip, I stopped to let a number of deer clear the road in my neighborhood before shutting down at the end of the drive. I should have cut the graph/data a bit as there is a drop in oil pressure to like 5 PSI where the RPM is shown around 525 RPM, but this was an error in the data gathering, the engine was actually off when the oil pressure dropped but there were still data points for the RPM which were invalid. Sometimes I have to clean up the start and stop of the data pulls. I have about 10 seconds of bad data, I should probably kill my logging before I shut the engine down for a better final data pull.

The 2nd graph shows the oil pressure during a 2 hour 15 minute drive. Oil temps maxed out at 226F with a 64F ambient temp and fairly cool road surface and you will see the oil pressure at cruise it typically around 50-58 PSI. Then there are some oil pressure spikes that jump up to around 84 PSI, this is when the 2 stage oil pump solenoid is activated due to higher engine RPM and Load. This does not happen with the L84 5.3l because the 2 stage oil pump solenoid has been deleted for some reason. The oil pressure spikes are normal on the engines with the 2 stage oil pump solenoid.

The 3rd graph is just for info. This was for the same 2 hour 15 minute drive showing the Knock Retard events. This is one of the reasons Preminum fuel is pretty much a good idea and it is still not good enough. Remember 11.5:1 compression ration and crasy Low RPM/High Torque Operation.

The 4th graph is the Torque Load for the same 2 hour 15 minute driver. This should give you idea how this engine is loaded when cruising. There are a few higher RPM spikes where I was having to bob and weave around some foolish left lane campers, but for the most part the cruising RPM is below 2000 RPM and when I am crusing at around 70-75 MPH the RPM is around 1700 RPM. This road is relatively flat, there are some slight, short grades, but nothing steep, so just think about driving up a 6% incline for a mile or more.


Again, overall I am more comfortable with the oil pressures I am seeing, but I am currently running 5W30 oil, not 0W20. I would hate to see what the 0W20 oil pressures would looke like at 226F+, assume at least a few PSI lower, but the upper value of the oil starts to thin out above 100C/212F, one chart I looked at indicated that a 20 weight oil is more like a 10 weight oil even at 10F above 100C/212F. Not sure how accurate this oil temp chart was, but it would be concerning. I have the Max Trailer package with the larger radiator, but not sure if the oil cooler is actually different. But I think the 6.2l may run higher oil temps while cruisig due to the torque loading on the engine. Waiting to see what happens to the oil temps this Summer on a 100F day where the sun has been beating on the pavement all day and the pavement temps are probably in the 130F range.



Oil Temp Pressure Coolant Temp RPM.jpg
Coolant Oil Temp Pressure.jpg

Knock Retard.jpg
Laod and RPM.jpg
 
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ZKWBQD

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Hi All,
New to the forum, but not new to GM.
I have a 2018 Suburban and just got a 2024 GMC Yukon XL Denali.
I see alot about the 6.2 and all the failures.
I have the range technologies device coming tomorrow that goes into the ECU (behind wheel well on driver side) and disables the stop start and DFM.
My question is, this motor has been made for ages.
Is the real issue the DFM crap?
My truck has 15 miles on the odometer and I am a maintenace hawk.
I plan on changing out engine oil at 1k miles and then again at 5k regular intervals.
I am really enjoying the 6.2, total upgrade from the 5.3
Also, is there no way to check the trans fluid other than getting under the car and opening the bolt on the back of the pan? No dipstick in this?
On my vehicles, I do the first oil change at 500 miles. Then I change oil every 3,000 miles. Also, I permanently disable the engine stop-start for improved gas mileage, and better safety. I also disable the daytime running lights.
 
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Vinmega

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I am guessing sitting is car pool lines or waiting on kids during activities for the longer idle periods?

As for the oil pump, here is the deal, all the oil pumps are variable output on these engines for the past 10+ years as I recall, the difference is the 6.2l has a 2 stage controller on top of the variable output pump. For some reason the L84 5.3l for dropped the 2 stage controller/solenoid. All the prior generations seemed to have the 2 stage solenoids even the 4.3l as I recall.
Not sure how all the dash guages are set up for displaying oil pressure. My Denali did not have oil pressure shown at all until I went into the Gauge/Dash setting and chose I think "Advanced" then the only additional gauge that showed up was oil pressure as I recall. The oil pressure guage is 0 to 120 PSI with a open space in the middle which would be 60 PSI. No other markings, hash marks or numbers.

I have a number of OBDII tools that will query the oil pressure. For some reason GM had a different type of sensor up until 2004, then changed starting in 2005. So the issue here is there is a difference in the Oil Pressure PID calculation between the vehicles up to 2004 and then 2005+. The calculation difference is 14 PSI. So on a few of my tools when I choose the 2024 vehicle I was a disappointed with the oil pressure numbers the tool was displaying. Then I used another tool that only displayed the oil pressure when choosing 2004 and earlier vehicles, this values was higher. Then after really paying attention to the dash gauge, the higher values now seems correct. I think some of the other tools must have used the pre 2005 PID calculation which is likey wrong. I believe a heathy 6.2l with the variable displacement oil pump with the 2 stage feature is satisfactory as long as you are not running 0W20 oil. I would really like to get a mechanical guage on the engine to verify the correct value, but I am starting to think the higher value I am measuring now (14 PSI higher) is correct.

Below are a few graphs.

The 1st graph note how the oil pressure starts to drop in the beginning as the oil continues to warm up. I had already driven about 15 minutes before I even started to gather data. I was in a drive thru where the long idle is in the beginning. I often put the transmission in Neutral when I am sitting in drive thru's and longer traffic lights. The lowest oil pressure value in at the end of the long idle is 37 PSI. While cruising at about 40-45 MPH because I am in a semi rural area, the oil pressure typically is around 42-56 PSI depending on RPM and load. Then later in the drive you will see a dip in oil pressure for a short period, I was stopped at a traffic light for a bit. By this time, the oil was up to 212F and at idle the oil pressure lowest value was 33 PSI. There was another short drop in RPM and oil pressure near the of the trip, I stopped to let a number of deer clear the road in my neighborhood before shutting down at the end of the drive. I should have cut the graph/data a bit as there is a drop in oil pressure to like 5 PSI where the RPM is shown around 525 RPM, but this was an error in the data gathering, the engine was actually off when the oil pressure dropped but there were still data points for the RPM which were invalid. Sometimes I have to clean up the start and stop of the data pulls. I have about 10 seconds of bad data, I should probably kill my logging before I shut the engine down for a better final data pull.

The 2nd graph shows the oil pressure during a 2 hour 15 minute drive. Oil temps maxed out at 226F with a 64F ambient temp and fairly cool road surface and you will see the oil pressure at cruise it typically around 50-58 PSI. Then there are some oil pressure spikes that jump up to around 84 PSI, this is when the 2 stage oil pump solenoid is activated due to higher engine RPM and Load. This does not happen with the L84 5.3l because the 2 stage oil pump solenoid has been deleted for some reason. The oil pressure spikes are normal on the engines with the 2 stage oil pump solenoid.

The 3rd graph is just for info. This was for the same 2 hour 15 minute drive showing the Knock Retard events. This is one of the reasons Preminum fuel is pretty much a good idea and it is still not good enough. Remember 11.5:1 compression ration and crasy Low RPM/High Torque Operation.

The 4th graph is the Torque Load for the same 2 hour 15 minute driver. This should give you idea how this engine is loaded when cruising. There are a few higher RPM spikes where I was having to bob and weave around some foolish left lane campers, but for the most part the cruising RPM is below 2000 RPM and when I am crusing at around 70-75 MPH the RPM is around 1700 RPM. This road is relatively flat, there are some slight, short grades, but nothing steep, so just think about driving up a 6% incline for a mile or more.


Again, overall I am more comfortable with the oil pressures I am seeing, but I am currently running 5W30 oil, not 0W20. I would hate to see what the 0W20 oil pressures would looke like at 226F+, assume at least a few PSI lower, but the upper value of the oil starts to thin out above 100C/212F, one chart I looked at indicated that a 20 weight oil is more like a 10 weight oil even at 10F above 100C/212F. Not sure how accurate this oil temp chart was, but it would be concerning. I have the Max Trailer package with the larger radiator, but not sure if the oil cooler is actually different. But I think the 6.2l may run higher oil temps while cruisig due to the torque loading on the engine. Waiting to see what happens to the oil temps this Summer on a 100F day where the sun has been beating on the pavement all day and the pavement temps are probably in the 130F range.



View attachment 451498View attachment 451499
View attachment 451502View attachment 451503
Exacatly, picking kids up, going to the store, and weekend famlily outings. This is great data logging. The one I have is the denali, so it has the bigger oil and trans coolers. Will be using either 0w-40 or 5w30 on this, but I have barely cracked 100 miles on the odo on this, so I need to drive it more.
I was going to get rid of my 18 suburban, but I think ill keep it for back up.
 

Sean Michael

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Being paranoid, having to baby these vehicles, adding aftermarket disablers, following specific startup procedures, using L9 all the time and whatnot to keep these temperamental 6.2L engines from grenading is ridiculous. I've come to the realization this isn't what ownership of a new $80K+ vehicle is supposed to be like. I'm in the process of trading mine in this week, after 18 years of owning various Tahoes, I'm out.
 

jfoj

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I get it about being paranoid. I am not happy about having to not just being blissfully ignorant when driving modern vehicles, but these are not Your Fathers Oldsmobile anymore. My 2005 6.0l now owes me nothing at 275,000 miles, but I just keep hammering on it daily. I still drive it on some trips, it is just not as easy on trips as the newer vehicles and the highway fuel economy is not as good due to the 4 speed transmission and the way the vehicle is geared, but this is probably why the engine has 275,000 miles without anything other than a water pump.

What I am doing is trying to minimize my risk and hopefully not be out of a vehicle for any length of time. If I did not drive so many miles, I would just lease a vehicle and then not worry as much about failures other than being stranded and delayed on a trip. Then get out of the vehicle at year 3 and move on.

Unfortunately like anything that becomes more complicated due to requirements for better fuel economy and power output there are many trade offs. Most trade offs do not benefit reliability and longevity.

When it boils down to any newer model vehicle, they are all having some form of problems. Many can be minimized or possibly eliminated by the way the vehicle is used and maintained. Unfortunately as usual OCI and maintenance schedules are not ideal. Owners have become accustomed to longer and longer maintenance intervals, but with newer technologies, the maintenance intervals actually need to become shorter, not something people want to be presented with or deal with.

I hope you get a decent trade value, unfortunately I think with all the engine failures, these trucks regardless of engine are less desirable at this point. I hope you also find a vehicle that is more reliable that meets your needs.
 

Sean Michael

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I'm bummed to be leaving it behind, and knowing my luck GM and NHTSA will go public with a bulletproof plan to fix the issue a day after I trade, but at this point I've already got a trade-in offer on paper, negotiated the price on a different new vehicle, and now I'm just waiting for it to be delivered. I'm not saying goodbye to Tahoes and Yukons forever, just goodbye for now. I love the format and will be keeping a close eye on this and other forums to see if things get figured out.
 

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