Need some help please

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dsh1106

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From what little I know about lift kits, the good ones cut and weld to maintain ride quality and keep it strong down there, no twisting.
Understood and I agree.
Both of the kits I'm looking at have the differential relocation brackets, what I was referencing are the kits that cut pieces off the differential and weld parts to the frame and make it impossible to return to stock if needed.
 
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swathdiver

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Understood and I agree.
Both of the kits I'm looking at have the differential relocation brackets, what I was referencing are the kits that cut pieces off the differential and weld parts to the frame and make it impossible to return to stock if needed.
Yeah, I hear ya, that's what the Zone Lift did on the Sierra we have. I could return it to stock but would need a factory cross member that is long gone and maybe some... well, I don't remember what it would all entail. I do remember it would cost nearly as much as the original lift to put it back to factory ride height with new struts and shocks and wheels and tires.

There are other guys on here who have lifted K2s, I guess they're still eating turkey. You'll probably have to search the forum and then send them ***.
 
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swathdiver

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I’m no expert on the ‘17 models, however I have a similar perspective. I’d rather cut / weld once than ride around daily with a compromised suspension or driveline. Four inches of lift needs a diff drop. Whatever that entails.

Buy once, cry once.
Yeah, a few months ago I saw a 900 Silverado at an intersection, lifted six or seven inches with the control arms in the stock position, they were angled down something crazy, probably not 45 degrees but sure looked close!
 

Oh Kee Pah

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Check out @Nokturnal 's setup on his Yukon. Pretty awesome looking IMO.
He's running the SST 4" lift. NO new crossmember required. Maybe some trimming depending on the actual tire size you choose to run.
Believe he has 34" tires on 18s.
I would suggest Xineering's shock sims MRC delete product for your front suspension. Sounds like you want to keep your rear shocks/air ride, so a shock extension bracket will be needed as well as the ride height sensor rod being repositioned with the new rear ride height. You can look as SuspenionMaxx's leveling products for magneride equipped vehicles; easy to see the ride height bracket relocator that they are selling. Others on the forum have built a DIY rod using a steel rod. They build a new rod that relates to the ride height increase and utilize the OE ride height bracket to tie into. Basically, just install a longer rod...

See post #135 on https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/2015-gmc-yukonxl-fox-coilovers.123586/page-14
 
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dsh1106

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Can any of you out there tell me the difference between these two 4" inch lifts besides the price?


(Note: the ready lift does have Skid plate, but is that worth almost 2x price?)

Thanks
Scott
 

iamdub

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Can any of you out there tell me the difference between these two 4" inch lifts besides the price?


(Note: the ready lift does have Skid plate, but is that worth almost 2x price?)

Thanks
Scott

The cheaper one uses a uni-ball instead of a stock style ball joint. I'd see this as a plus since it's stronger, has more ROM and is rebuildable. The cheaper one has a lot more hardware, whatever significance that bears. As far as actual components, I don't see anything making the other worth twice the price. The different length sway bar end links is kinda confusing, though. But, I have no experience with either company. The cheaper one would have to be complete garbage in materials and workmanship to justify being half the price, and I doubt that's the case.
 

Oh Kee Pah

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Check out the TuffCountry info under the listed "Features & Benefits."
Note the following item:
- Requires new rims with 4.5" backspacing

I believe that 4.5" backspacing is:
* 0 on 8.0" wide wheels
* -6 on 8.5" wide
* -12 on 9.0" wide

I believe this equates to approx. 1.5" change in backspacing from OE stock wheels

With the TuffCountry kit, the new wheels + skid plate missing could more than make up for the difference in price between the two kits you have listed.



Now, the ReadyLIFT SST reports the following:

- 33" Maximum tire diameter
- 33x11.50 for no rub on a 9" wide wheel with 0 offset (5.00" backspacing)
- 18" - 295/65R18
- 20" - 285/60R20
- 22" - 285/50R22


I know that my OE 20" wheels were 20x9, +27 offset with 275/55r20 tires. Perhaps someone can provide an accurate calculation regarding the ReadyLift SST kit and whether OE wheels have rub or require trimming...


At the end of the day, I think that BOTH kits will probably require some sort of wheel/tire combo that does NOT include OE wheels (18" - 22"s).
Tire width chosen could have a major impact on rubbing and whether some sort of trimming may be required as well.
Wheel spacers may need to be considered in order to run OE wheels, but without a wide width tire accompanying.
 

STORMIN08

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i have been looking for pics, not sure i even took any...but
i will be back around my suburban later next week...

i am running the readylift upper arms, with a stock GM 22" wheel and 285/50/22 tire...there is no clearance issues to the arm
 

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