Need some Advice on Engine tear down

[AmunRoo]

I'm tearing the engine down to the block. I wanted to know if there's anything worth replacing while I have the heads off. I'm currently replacing the stock lifters with LSX performance lifters from ZZ performance and the pushrods with hardened chromoly push rats from Texas speed. I'm also going to have the heads resurfaced while they're off just to make sure I have a nice tight seal. New gaskets all the way around also. I can't remember where I was reading but I read somewhere about using 918 springs?

As always, any advice is greatly appreciated!

 

[NickTransmissions]

Install ARP bolts or studs on place of the TTY fasteners. Chase all the head bolt threads on the block (do NOT use a tap, just a thread chaser). Clean the pistons to the extent you can and thoroughly inspect the block and cylinder bores for any issues.

General considerations for cylinder head overhaul when heads come off: Remove and check all valves for wear at the stem and seat, valve guide wear. To do it right, id replace all the valves, full 3-5 angle valve job, back cut the valves if need be and replace all the springs and hardware. Have the seats recut or replaced….Run the stock head gaskets.

Are you switching to a bigger cam and upgraded exhaust/headers or just doing head gaskets and the other mods listed?

 

[mattbta]

Install ARP bolts or studs on plarlce of the TTY fasteners. Chase all the head bolt threads on the block (do NOT use a tap, just a thread chaser).

Some folks make a chaser from an old TTY bolt, but I bought both the large and small chasers from ARP. I was surprised how much junk they pulled out. Glad I put in ARP bolts when I replaced my cracked heads because one of those cracked in short order. ARP FTW!

 

[NickTransmissions]

Some folks make a chaser from an old TTY bolt, but I bought both the large and small chasers from ARP. I was surprised how much junk they pulled out. Glad I put in ARP bolts when I replaced my cracked heads because one of those cracked in short order. ARP FTW!

Yep, chasing/cleaning threads is one of the most underrated steps in the engine rebuilding process. If using an old bolt to make a chase just remove any burrs from the cuts and that should work fine. Gives those stupid ass torque to yield bolts something productive to do, haha.

 

[iamdub]

Gives those stupid ass torque to yield bolts something productive to do, haha.

I like TTY bolts for their cost, precision and consistency. Fight me.

 

[NickTransmissions]

I like TTY bolts for their cost, precision and consistency. Fight me.

Lol, no fight from me man - if you (or anyone) likes them keep using them but all my engines get ARP fasteners in place of tty...Just make sure you follow torque angle procedures exactly as specified when installing them…

 

[iamdub]

View attachment 396413

Lol, no fight from me man - if you (or anyone) likes them keep using them but all my engines get ARP fasteners in place of tty...

Well, you're no fun.

I admit I'm a class clown, but I am serious about my opinion of TTY fasteners. They weren't created just to make things more difficult.

Just make sure you follow torque angle procedures exactly as specified when installing them…

This is why I like them. You're given specific numbers to hit that aren't affected by the variables a torque wrench introduces: The wrench's calibration, the user's movements, the varying friction between the fastener and subject being clamped, etc.

I'm absolutely NOT against using ARP or any other standard torque fasteners. They're reusable so that could be a benefit if you gotta keep taking things apart. They're stronger, but the factory stuff is plenty strong enough as TTY head bolts are perfectly fine even on boosted engines.

 

[mattbta]

Lol, no fight from me man - if you (or anyone) likes them keep using them but all my engines get ARP fasteners in place of tty...Just make sure you follow torque angle procedures exactly as specified when installing them…

I have little fight left in me these days.

I didn’t trust myself with torque angles so the ARP solution was easier for my lizard brain. Haha.

 

[NickTransmissions]

Well, you're no fun.

I admit I'm a class clown, but I am serious about my opinion of TTY fasteners. They weren't created just to make things more difficult.




This is why I like them. You're given specific numbers to hit that aren't affected by the variables a torque wrench introduces: The wrench's calibration, the user's movements, the varying friction between the fastener and subject being clamped, etc.

I'm absolutely NOT against using ARP or any other standard torque fasteners. They're reusable so that could be a benefit if you gotta keep taking things apart. They're stronger, but the factory stuff is plenty strong enough as TTY head bolts are perfectly fine even on boosted engines.

Trust me, I can be tons of “fun” if/when necessary but nothing that you’ve said is factually inaccurate. Just a difference in builder preferences …like many things, there’s more than one way to skin the ‍

 

[swathdiver]

I'm tearing the engine down to the block. I wanted to know if there's anything worth replacing while I have the heads off. I'm currently replacing the stock lifters with LSX performance lifters from ZZ performance and the pushrods with hardened chromoly push rats from Texas speed. I'm also going to have the heads resurfaced while they're off just to make sure I have a nice tight seal. New gaskets all the way around also. I can't remember where I was reading but I read somewhere about using 918 springs?

As always, any advice is greatly appreciated!

Camshaft and valve seals? 3 or 5 angle valve job for some more power and efficiency.