Need a list of items for DIY oil changes


Full Access Member
Nov 14, 2018
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i'm tired of paying shops to do my oil changes it's costing like 75$ now to do them...
I know the initial cost of buying the items will be a bit more but it will save me money in the long run...

so what exactly do i need to do my own oil changes? besides the filter and 5w30 oil :p


Senior Member
Sep 12, 2022
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A good jack and a set of stands.
Oil filter wrench
Either a 13mm or 15mm wrench
2 gallon or larger drain pan
Basic knowledge of tools

I don't know your mechanical knowledge, so these are just basics I use as well. An oil change gone wrong gets expensive VERY quick. I'm a little concerned that this is being asked when it is as simple as it gets......there's a reason many mechanics start out at a jiffy lube type shop to get their feet under them.

If you are new to the whole working on cars thing, I would advise watching some relevant videos, etc. $75 seems pretty reasonable considering the potential cost of a mess up.

Unless you are driving so much that oil changes happen on a regular basis, I'd just stay with what you are currently doing.

Not meant to be harsh, just realistic. I used to train apprentice technicians for a living and I can tell you many stories based on lack of knowledge.


Full Access Member
May 18, 2017
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Treasure Coast, Florida
1. Ramps stout enough for your truck.
2. A Pair of wheel chocks to secure the rear wheels and maybe to keep the ramps from sliding while you put the truck up on them.
3. A 15mm 1/2" drive socket to fit your 1/2" drive ratchet or a 15mm wrench.
4. An oil filter socket wrench, 73P-15 to fit ACDelco PF48 filters (use your 1/2" drive ratchet on it).
5. A roll or two of Scott shop towels.
6. A drain pain to catch the dirty oil and let the filter drain.
7. I like the Assenmacher funnel that screws into the filler. Only my youngest daughter can defeat its brilliant design and spill oil all over my engine bay.


We also use a floor jack and stands because we rotate the tires every oil change. With that, we check the tread depth of each tire and reset the TPM positions with the 50448 tool. We have a stout 1/2" drive torque wrench set each lug to 140 foot pounds with a 3" 1/2" drive extension and a 1/2" drive socket of 21 or 22 millimeters, can't remember. Mine does not have factory lug nuts.

Don't forget to reset the oil life monitor.

My oil change with ACDelco oil and filters costs us $48.13 each time and buy in bulk from Rock Auto for convenience (6 bottles at a time or 2 cases).

ACDelco Oil Filter - PF48 or 89017524
ACDelco Engine Oil - 5W30 Full Synthetic - 5 Quart bottles - 10-9147 or 88865743

There's no right or wrong way generally, some ways are more efficient than others. This is just how we do it. You'll soon figure out the best way for you.

OR VietVet

Multnomah Falls
Supporting Member
Oct 8, 2014
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Willamette Valley
All the above and one last thing:

This is to dump the old oil in to from the drain pan. Just a round drain pan is not good enough. Make sure to get one that allows you to pour out of the pan and into this container without spillage. Also, before you do this, check around with a shop or parts store, like O'Reilly's, that allows you to come dump the old oil. Bring them the old filter(s) too.

If you buy oil and filter from them, this old oil dump is typically free.

Make sure to check the engine surface where the oil filter seal seats against, after old filter removal. You want it clean and dry before new filter install. Make sure the old seal came off with the old filter. Pour some new oil in the new filter before install to help prime when you do the restart. Make sure you use a thin film of new oil on the new seal when installing. I like to do a full turn on the new filter after the new seal touches the engine surface. If you lube the new filter seal, it will come off ok when do the next oil change.

Add new oil as needed till full. Start engine and verify the oil pressure rises as usual. Let run for about 1 minute and listen to make sure sounds normal. Shut off and wait about 2-3 minutes for the oil to all drain back in to the oil pan. Then check oil level and top off as needed.

If there is any grease zerks under there, wipe them off clean and grease them and then wipe off again. Is also time to check coolant level, brake fluid, power steering fluid, air filter, belts and hoses. Check battery connections and cable ends. I always like to also check and clear away any dirt and leaves debris at the cowling at bottom of w/s. Also, check wiper blades too.

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