My other vehicles

[Snowbound]

That’s some $$$$

I keep going back and forth on doing head gaskets/head studs on my 6.2 and turn up the boost a little to get more hp/be slightly more reliable or just ditch it and throw a 5.3 in it.

You’ll just set yourself up for disaster turning up the 6.2. The cups in the precombustion chamber are not ideal for boost. You’ll run into heads cracking between the valves and it won’t be great on fuel. Ask me how I know. Haha






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[Snowbound]

6.2 heads are the 162’s



These are the precups in the 6.2 heads. Notice the single square dot.



The 6.5TD heads off a mechanical DB2 injection pump engine, 1992 model year. A 929 block of that means anything to you. These are 567 heads.



These precups have 2 square dots.



I know the precups can be changed in the heads. If someone would go thru that the diamond cups are the ones to get. It may not seem like they would be that big of a deal but they actually do make a difference. EGT’s and fuel economy are the biggest differences how they work for certain applications. Just in case you were wondering.

Bottom line, an LS is gonna be your best improvement.

 

[Ilikemtb999]

It’s been turbo’d for going on 4 years now at 9-11psi depending on weather. I just don’t look and it’s fine lol. Even with a pump rebuild (still original) and head gaskets and studs I’m about the price of a used 5.3. The tuning/electrical side gets so expensive so quick though. Not looking for a hp machine, just something that’ll hopefully not explode or blow a HG. I think I’d benefit from a regear and an overdrive trans with the current combo more than anything.

 

[Snowbound]

It’s been turbo’d for going on 4 years now at 9-11psi depending on weather. I just don’t look and it’s fine lol. Even with a pump rebuild (still original) and head gaskets and studs I’m about the price of a used 5.3. The tuning/electrical side gets so expensive so quick though. Not looking for a hp machine, just something that’ll hopefully not explode or blow a HG. I think I’d benefit from a regear and an overdrive trans with the current combo more than anything.

I hear you loud and clear. If it’s not broke don’t fix it. Something I can preach but cannot live by myself.
6.2- if you want reliability with little to no downtime, leave it alone. Enjoy the turbo with that wastegate on the engine and get yourself a gear vendor and skip the regear and OD trans. Problem is the gear vendor will only reap the benefits in 2wd. If your all time 4wd you can convert the t-case to a selectable unit or skip the GV and just do the OD trans. A 4L60 or 700R4 is garbage but can be made to be reliable. The 4L80 is the best choice but is longer and would require a little more work. Shafts need to be modified, new input for the t-case may be required also. Do not buy the “little black box” that is sold to bypass having to use a TCM if the 80 is a route your looking into. It essentially maxes out the line pressure and will drastically shorten the life of the trans. There are cheaper ways, Rockauto sells a TCM, look up 1992 C3500 Chevy truck, but will require a TPS mounted to the injection pump as an input for the controller.

5.3- complete engine harness and PCM can be had for 5-800$ depending on year, mileage and your location. The harness can modified easily and run off 3 wires. Keeping your trans is doable but would require a conversion flexplate and spacer for the torque convertor snout or just a conversion torque convertor. Engine mount plates are cheap but the fuel system is gonna be another cost. You’d need to do some exhaust work and add some O2 sensors. Tuning is an easy swap of the PCM eliminating the VATS and post cat sensors. Many companies will do an exchange for roughly $150. But your still stuck with a 3 speed trans. The cost will run you about $2500 if you source the parts correctly.

Truth be known, I’m a diesel guy, I like seeing the old Detroit oil burners still running around. When I started my K5 build I planned on using my 6.5TD. I started rebuilding it and couldn’t source new connecting rod bolts. I don’t know why they are so hard to come by. I tried everywhere. ARP wouldn’t do it unless there was a big enough demand to shut down their line to run off a batch. I contacted these companies that said they sell reconditioned rods for the 6.5 and they couldn’t tell me where they get new bolts and nuts for their “reconditioned rods”. I told them I would buy their rods if they can tell me they have new bolts and nuts. When I finally got in touch with someone higher up their answer was, “why do you need new bolts when these engines don’t spin at high RPM?” That was enough for me to say I’m done with it. I had a boat load of new parts for this engine, **** steel crank, injection pump, marine injectors, bearings, rings, gasket set and even had a new set of 19:1 pistons made for it. Long story already long, I sold off most of the stuff or returned it and drove from Chicago to North Carolina to grab this 12v with the adapter, flexplate and starter to mate to the 4L80e I had. Paid $2400 for it, the adapter alone is $1100 so I had to. That’s why I ended up going with the 6bt 12v Cummins.

My advise, enjoy it. Fix your rust issues when time allows but don’t take it any farther than your willing to tackle in a short time frame. I really like the K5 platform and hate that I’m so far in on mine that it’s impossible for me to cut any corners or hurry it along. I refuse to give up on it because I know when it’s done I’m gonna be loving life again. If you want to meet some like minded K5 people who are always willing to lend a hand or advise, check out K5BP.com. I have my build on there.
Black Smoke
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[07Burb]

I’ve become a bit more active on here so figured I’d throw out a few pics of my other two vehicles.

First up, my first car. Started life as a 1970 Buick GS 350/350 car. Put in a 400bbb and then roasted the th350. Car ended up being parked after that outside and then inside. She did not fare well over the years body wise but that’s ok. I figured I’ll just got for a roadkill style look till I do body work and paint.

Current upgrades I’ve gotten in:
Chevy 12 bolt rear end
72 Muncie m21
4th gen f body brakes front and rear
Big sway bars front and rear
Fully adjustable upper front control arms
Qa1 coil overs
Poly body mounts
18” wheels 9.5” rear with 285/40’s and 8.5” fronts with 245/40’s


I still have a pile of parts to put on/in and button up like 3.55 gears,finish hydraulic throw out setup, a spare 455 I want to drop in, new seat covers for the fronts, need to wire up everything still etc.
here are some random pics starting from the trip back to Denver (from Chicago area)View attachment 212366 View attachment 212356View attachment 212357View attachment 212358View attachment 212360

cool project, man!! Love those Buicks

 

[mountie]

Crap..... I miss my '70 GTO......and '73 Chevy Chevelle /Malibu

 

[Ilikemtb999]

Forgot to post up I have yet another new vehicle. 2014 Caprice, so far only mods are eibach springs and brembo brakes. Need to collect afm delete parts and get some summer tires for the other wheels

 

[Ilikemtb999]

Brembos from a 2013 camaro. 355mm fronts and 360mm rears up from 345mm and 325mm respectively. Clears stock wheels nicely.

 

[Miami-Dade]

Forgot to post up I have yet another new vehicle. 2014 Caprice, so far only mods are eibach springs and brembo brakes. Need to collect afm delete parts and get some summer tires for the other wheelsView attachment 219374 View attachment 219375

Broward County bought a lot of those Caprices several years back. They loved them and said they held up better then the Chargers. There are still some floating around. It is sad they stopped making them.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Broward County bought a lot of those Caprices several years back. They loved them and said they held up better then the Chargers. There are still some floating around. It is sad they stopped making them.

When did they stop making them, and why? Never knew that