My Boom Box

Discussion in 'Audio & Electronics' started by MrMiller, Apr 24, 2017.

  1. massivespl

    massivespl I'm not mean, I'm honest.

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    Your thinking to much about it. Yes sensitivity matters but u do relize that rating is how loud they get off 1watt or power... it will change when u apply different amount of power. The sensitivity matter more for loud speakers/vocal speakers because they are light weight compared to a subwoofers moving mass ... more then likely the SA will be louder... it’s been proven time and time again to be louder then most woofers.
     
  2. xFuZzYx

    xFuZzYx IASCA Car Audio World Champion

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    IMG_20170112_134747_473.jpg
     
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  3. Gossamer

    Gossamer Member

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    Ok, thanks
     
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  4. willthom

    willthom Full Access Member

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    I'm obviously no guru here, but how is that box attached to the truck? Everyone I've ever seen that fit sub(s) in that area built a fiberglass backing or some kind of routed out multi-stacked MDF box. Yours looks like it's just caulked to the side of the cab. What am I missing?
     
  5. BigDaddy13440

    BigDaddy13440 Full Access Member

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    Deadened between the inner and outer quarter panels with spray foam, then I scuffed up the metal with sandpaper to give it some tooth. I then used PowerGrab adhesive to hold the wood pieces in place against the metal, and used a few screws to secure while the PG dried. The PG adhesive is actually stronger than the wood itself when joining two pieces, by far stronger than wood glue (maybe with the exception of Gorilla glue). After letting the adhesive dry, I then ran a substantial bead of silicone around the joints.

    This is the fifth vehicle I've built into the quarter panels, and after sufficiently deadening between the skins, it's as solid as a double baffle of 3/4" MDF. Both this one and the previous, I added quite a bit of the Pella foil tape you see, it has a butyl layer under the foil. Very sticky, it works quite well for deadening small areas. A 4" wide x 50' roll is about $18, I just happen to have partial rolls left over from my job (install doors and patio doors for Lowe's).

    As I knew I wasn't going to go with a huge amount of power (as I said, 1200-1500 watts is about all I ever need), I knew I wasn't going to have to worry about too much internal pressure. From the enclosure, the port fires right over my left shoulder (when I'm driving), and only rarely do I ever feel any air movement. I wasn't looking to do hair tricks, don't give a damn about the buzzing, tin can farting noise most guys with 15's, 18's, multiple 10's or 12's like. Not my cup of tea, I want authorative, smack-me-in-the-back-of-my-head accurate bass. And I've accomplished that with every build.
     
  6. willthom

    willthom Full Access Member

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    So that's adhesive, not caulk? I had no idea wood and metal could be joined in a way that would work well for a sub box. Like I said, every box build in that panel that I've seen has had either fiberglass or a weird shaped wood box. If your way works, seems like you'd have a lot more space for a decent sized sub magnet if you chose to hide it behind the panel.
     
  7. OB 04Denali

    OB 04Denali Member

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    Niceeee. If i was to go with a 2 10's setup and only have 500Watts RMS total from the PDX-V9 sub channel to play with, What 10 inch subs would you guys recommend me looking into? Maybe 2 JL W1's?
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2018
  8. Gossamer

    Gossamer Member

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    I tried it facing the passenger side and then facing the drivers side. Found out it actually provides a lot more cleaner bass if it faces the back. I don't have a 3rd row seat so that is abit of a different situation for me.
     
  9. willthom

    willthom Full Access Member

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    I've never tried that, but I use my 3rd row a lot
     
  10. bigmike41

    bigmike41 TYF Newbie

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    Just started but on hold my transmission went out

    IMG_20180220_172700.jpg
     

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