I just spent a couple of hours practising gynaecology! I removed the factory lights and installed the Morimoto stuff, all through a very small aperture. I’m going to have to take it half apart again to adjust them, a stupid system; I presume that once I get it right it will not have to be opened again?
The electrical plug they supply doesn’t fit, you have to cut the aligning slots off with a razor knife (I wore my welding gloves in case of slippage) and then because it’s the wrong plug you have to use zip ties to hold it all together. Even if the polarity was correct the plugs are incompatible. Morimoto could have done better with this part. Do this on the bench before you offer them up to the car.
I suppose if you removed the entire front fascia you wouldn’t have to struggle as much but you will still have to cut the plug and adjust the suckers In the dark.
Because it was such a pita to do, I’m going to be severe with my review. A lot of this process is on faith because the Morimoto fogs for my F150 were a total waste of time. Not measurably better than stock for light output but many, not me, were pleased merely with the light colour. We’ll see.
The YouTube stuff I looked at was largely useless, I found little of use there. You will need a 10 mm socket, a 7 mm for the wheel well screws and various extensions. I have an interior trim kit that was very useful for pulling the plastic pins. I also had mixed results with a universal. If you have 1/4 drive sets, that is probably the best, I only had 3/8”. I also used my Milwaukee ratchet, that was a better tool than hand-bombing it. I removed the old adjusters and put them on the new lights as close as I could get them to the original so we’ll see if that was helpful. The 10 mm socket is essential for removing the plastic clippy-mount things, put the socket over the plastic and use something like a small Plillips (I used a pick) in the middle of the socket to push the light out of the mount.
Turn the wheel so the front of the tire is opposite to the side you are working on. Also a flashlight is useful along with a drop light - it’s dark in there. Take out the 5 screws in the well and the 2 underneath, including the plastic pin-thing. Pry the well back and jam something in there to hold it open. You will need to get both hands in there.
Don’t rush out and do this until I try them out, I suspect these are not going to be as great as I had hoped, I suspect there may be a Rigid system in my future. Way more money though. I sincerely hope Morimoto has upped their game.
I used to have Marchal fog lights on my old TR4 and they were bright and had a very precise cut-off. You could almost see 90 degrees on either side of the road. If that was possible in the time of the dinosaurs, why is this stuff so iffy?
We’ll see (no pun intended).
The electrical plug they supply doesn’t fit, you have to cut the aligning slots off with a razor knife (I wore my welding gloves in case of slippage) and then because it’s the wrong plug you have to use zip ties to hold it all together. Even if the polarity was correct the plugs are incompatible. Morimoto could have done better with this part. Do this on the bench before you offer them up to the car.
I suppose if you removed the entire front fascia you wouldn’t have to struggle as much but you will still have to cut the plug and adjust the suckers In the dark.
Because it was such a pita to do, I’m going to be severe with my review. A lot of this process is on faith because the Morimoto fogs for my F150 were a total waste of time. Not measurably better than stock for light output but many, not me, were pleased merely with the light colour. We’ll see.
The YouTube stuff I looked at was largely useless, I found little of use there. You will need a 10 mm socket, a 7 mm for the wheel well screws and various extensions. I have an interior trim kit that was very useful for pulling the plastic pins. I also had mixed results with a universal. If you have 1/4 drive sets, that is probably the best, I only had 3/8”. I also used my Milwaukee ratchet, that was a better tool than hand-bombing it. I removed the old adjusters and put them on the new lights as close as I could get them to the original so we’ll see if that was helpful. The 10 mm socket is essential for removing the plastic clippy-mount things, put the socket over the plastic and use something like a small Plillips (I used a pick) in the middle of the socket to push the light out of the mount.
Turn the wheel so the front of the tire is opposite to the side you are working on. Also a flashlight is useful along with a drop light - it’s dark in there. Take out the 5 screws in the well and the 2 underneath, including the plastic pin-thing. Pry the well back and jam something in there to hold it open. You will need to get both hands in there.
Don’t rush out and do this until I try them out, I suspect these are not going to be as great as I had hoped, I suspect there may be a Rigid system in my future. Way more money though. I sincerely hope Morimoto has upped their game.
I used to have Marchal fog lights on my old TR4 and they were bright and had a very precise cut-off. You could almost see 90 degrees on either side of the road. If that was possible in the time of the dinosaurs, why is this stuff so iffy?
We’ll see (no pun intended).
