Misfire when warm.

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grouch

grouch

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Found the problem. I decided to swap out my spark plugs and the ones that came out were gas fouled from the TBI leak. I wasn't able to change 3 of them as the headers are too tight. The old gal ran better but still not right. I decided to double check the timing as I did find the header panel was from a different year and the timing specs were off. Slapped the light on it and the timing was all over the place. Out of the corner of my good eye, I saw something moving. The distributor was bouncing up and down. I reached over and pushed it down and the engine smoothed out.

The hold down clamp had a hair line crack under the bolt. It had broken and was allowing the distributor to move around and up and down. I had an old one in the garage and swapped it in. The engine smoothed out right away. I still need to retime it as well as other things I adjusted. However, while it still bogs down, it's not cutting out like it was. Maybe I've found the root cause of this.
 

OR VietVet

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The bogging down can be from the wrong timing too. Attach a vacuum gauge to it and adjust the timing to where you get the highest vacuum and you will be very close to the correct timing. Or look up the correct timing and set it at that.
 
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The bogging down can be from the wrong timing too. Attach a vacuum gauge to it and adjust the timing to where you get the highest vacuum and you will be very close to the correct timing. Or look up the correct timing and set it at that.


I spent most of the day fighting the plugs. I'll hit the engine again tomorrow. It seems to be a healthier engine already. I think the engine will sound happier with a little more advance.
 

OR VietVet

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May have to come from underneath to access the plugs. Are you sure the plug wires are ok, because when access to plugs is that bad, a lot of times the wires are too close to hot headers.
 
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May have to come from underneath to access the plugs. Are you sure the plug wires are ok, because when access to plugs is that bad, a lot of times the wires are too close to hot headers.


I made sure to use header wrap when I put the headers on. Back when I raced we had a lot of trouble with headers burning plug wires. The wires are supple and look nearly new after several months of use. I couldn't even get the plug socket on the plugs. The drivers side header is leaking so after this heavy shot of cold air is gone, or I get the car in the garage done, I'll pull the headers and replace the gaskets. I'll get the others while I'm at it.

I'll adjust the timing today. I was so tired of messing with it yesterday I took a break. I've learned over the years that when fatigue sets in, unless it's critical, go away for a little bit and come back later. Usually that bolts that just won't go in will go in easy when you come back.
 

OR VietVet

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Been there and done that when I was wrenching. I could get frustrated about something and I would just walk away and have a cup of coffee or a walk around the outside of the shop and then come back later and typically the frustration was gone and all went well. Too much tunnel vision can be a PITA.
 

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Since the computer controls advance, make sure to unplug wire (brown if I remember right) by brake booster when timing it. Advance 2-4 degrees by light. Helps some. Listen for pinging, could advance too far for cheap gas.
I also have a short (cut off)plug socket with a hex on top, makes a tough job easier.
 
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Success!!! The old gal is running better than anytime since I got it. Even with three gas fouled plugs, it will light both rear tires up. The bracket hid the problem so a lot of what I did could have waited. I replaced the fuel pump and even rebuilt the TBI unit and the problem kept getting worse.

The original problem was the distributor. Evidently when I bolted it down is when the clamp failed. The only other time I've seen a distributor clamp fail was on a race Hemi that grenaded. I took the old distributor by a friends shop and he tested it. As it warmed, it failed to work properly. I had seen it was nasty when I first got the truck and replaced the cap and rotor. Now i won't have to rent or borrow a truck. The timing chain was needed and now this puppy can pull Rush Limbaugh into the Democratic Party.
 

OR VietVet

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Success!!! The old gal is running better than anytime since I got it. Even with three gas fouled plugs, it will light both rear tires up. The bracket hid the problem so a lot of what I did could have waited. I replaced the fuel pump and even rebuilt the TBI unit and the problem kept getting worse.

The original problem was the distributor. Evidently when I bolted it down is when the clamp failed. The only other time I've seen a distributor clamp fail was on a race Hemi that grenaded. I took the old distributor by a friends shop and he tested it. As it warmed, it failed to work properly. I had seen it was nasty when I first got the truck and replaced the cap and rotor. Now i won't have to rent or borrow a truck. The timing chain was needed and now this puppy can pull Rush Limbaugh into the Democratic Party.


Not a chance in hell will Rush allow anything like that to happen! Them's fightin' words! LOL!!!!!! :chewie::893Chainsaw-Smilie-:badidea::biggun::boxing::buttkick::chair::favorites68::flipthebird::headbang::lazer::manos::sunot:

LLLLLOOOOOLLLLL!!!!!
 

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