Mild 6.0L Build Suggestions?

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fasteddy

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The heads are installed. Everything is torqued together. I just dont have pushrods. Is the last thing in my build.

Roger was concerned as he had never seen a longer pushrod than 7.450" I am getting 7.495"

Trying to track down a spec for 2116LSR lifters. Haven't found one to validate my measurements and tolerance of lifter (mine are used). Otherwise all I know is the pushrods should be longer for these.

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Thats a race type lifter isnt it.....with the bar? so no trays? Reduced Travel? for high RPMs?

Do your actual pushrods vary in length? That seems hinky....
 

fasteddy

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Just as an FYI, I run a stock bottom end LS3 in my little midengine car.
On race day I rev that puppy to 7500 and I don't even use low travel lifters.
I use just LS7/GM Perf lifters.

I say that because just in case you have to reverse and pull the heads, You should get rid of those lifters and just use LS7s
Try to stay away from ultra high performance and used....you never know.

I thought you were doing a low rpm max TQ build right?
 
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Matthew Jeschke

Matthew Jeschke

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WOW torqueing down all rocker arms made a considerable difference. My zero lash distance tightened up. I measured on 3 valves and compared to previous measurements. Then stopped...

I notice my Chinese knockoff adjustable pushrod is complete garbage. I've been setting it to a specific length, taping it together, and checking it in between measurements. Even then the stupid thing varies in length. The threads on it are loosey goosey.

Curious what adjustable pushrods are good? I like this design with a locking nut but clearance would be an issue with those and the pushrod guide on head and I'm not sure what would fit.

For now I'm going to put thread locker on this pushrod AND tape it and see if that helps.
 
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Matthew Jeschke

Matthew Jeschke

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Just as an FYI, I run a stock bottom end LS3 in my little midengine car.
On race day I rev that puppy to 7500 and I don't even use low travel lifters.
I use just LS7/GM Perf lifters.

I say that because just in case you have to reverse and pull the heads, You should get rid of those lifters and just use LS7s
Try to stay away from ultra high performance and used....you never know.

I thought you were doing a low rpm max TQ build right?


They are short travel lifters yes. I definitely wanted the link bar and Johnson Lifters. Almost pulled trigger on set of Morel LS7 drop in lifters. Then saw these for a few $$ more. I think they'll be rock solid despite I won't need to rev to 8000 RPM. However, I didn't know about this short travel stuff when I bought them. It makes them harder to setup. They're awesome as they bleed less oil pressure and I think these or perhaps it's the next model up pumps oil to the roller as well. They had me sold. All the guys I talk to running them say they'd never go back to regular lifters afterwards. The engine builder I bought the block from said he uses nothing but Johnson lifters.

My old engine had some lifter issues. They were all plugged up. I mostly resolved it. Another engine builder said he had seen factory lifters spin despite guide trays.

Seemed biggiest issues I found search and sepakong with other builders were the cam bearings (oil pressure issues seem to trigger that) and lifter issues. Either noisey or complete lifter failure, spun, collapsed, etc.

I decided to not chance it. Was told coulent go wrong woth johnson lifters so is what I got.
 
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fasteddy

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But Johnson makes LS7 type lifters that are just a tad over OEM LS7....
But then they also make a continuum of higher and higher perf lifters for spinning higher and higher RPMs.

OK did you just say chinese adjustable pushrod?
I have never heard of that.
Sounds contrary to hardened.....which is where I lean toward.
 

fasteddy

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So does the adjustable pushrod have a spring in it? Like for some kind of VVT simulation?
Or is it just set once to length?

You're like an LS mad scientist.

You should invite chris and jeremy over for dinner and beer and do a QA walkthrough.
 

fasteddy

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BTW, Happy Easter.

Sidetrack story......Don't worry, you be done one day.

I don't say mad scientist in a bad way....
I'm kind of one myself and hit and miss because R&D is painful.

Like in my quest to get to 200mph in the 1/2 mile I decided to go lighter and ditch my 3700lb GTR.
I thought I'd outsmart em with physics. Lighter car, big power go faster.
So I bought the 1800lb palatov.

First outing was 150mph with Stock LS3....full cats, Oem manifolds.
But the ET beats everyone to the flag.....but trap speed wins.
So I upgraded to Giant TSP CNC Max ported heads with LS7 exhaust ports and the biggest cam they had.
Made for 5000-7000rpms
Had the stock LS3 Manifold, because its good. MSD doesn't even make an LS3 manifold because there's no gains.
The tuner said the engine was suffocating because the big heads were trying to suck too much air through my LS3 intake.
He said to upgrade to Holley HighRam, But I didn't want to do that becuase they are aluminum and absorb heat, heatsoak, pulls timing, go slower.
So with those heads and cam and CUSTOM headers, cuz its a palatov and no one makes headers for that...it ran 165-168mph
Aside from head winds its very consistent on speed because its NA. So $8K to get 18mph.

Here's the real mad scientist part.
Researched for months and months for a bigger manifold. Found some...MAST and some others but most top mount Throttle bodies and dreaded aluminum.
Then FAST release their HIGHRISE composite manifold...front feed for LS engines. O I could do that.....famous last thought
Got a FAST HR, had NO idea if it would even fit.
Well it DID NOT. It was too high and too close to everything.
So I flipped around BACKWARDs. Then it barely fit. 1/2 inch from front radiator piping in front
But barely room in rear for throttle body and MAF....HAHA that had to go away which meant Speed Density tune....OMG what is that?
I spent a month buying extension harness and sensor adaptors and fittings and half was wrong but eventually I got it all together, BACKWARDS
NO air cleaner.....bought a Turbo Guard and put it over the throttle body with an HKS round air element.
So it all worked out after a lot of trial and error.
Now it runs 180-182mph and could now needs more fuel lol ....maybe E85 and bigger injectors.

With LS3 Manifold front facing under the radiator pipes, stock cats and mufflers
IMG_1096.JPG


After FAST HR.....check out my turbo/HKS Air cleaner
And close I am to the front piping and rear frame member....LOL

IMG_2454.JPG


So madness is OK
But can consume a lot of time and money on stuff that doesn't work
You just have to have the perseverance to get to the other side. IMG_2451.JPG NFZ-Palatov.jpg
 
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Matthew Jeschke

Matthew Jeschke

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BTW, Happy Easter.

Sidetrack story......Don't worry, you be done one day.

I don't say mad scientist in a bad way....
I'm kind of one myself and hit and miss because R&D is painful.

Like in my quest to get to 200mph in the 1/2 mile I decided to go lighter and ditch my 3700lb GTR.
I thought I'd outsmart em with physics. Lighter car, big power go faster.
So I bought the 1800lb palatov.

First outing was 150mph with Stock LS3....full cats, Oem manifolds.
But the ET beats everyone to the flag.....but trap speed wins.
So I upgraded to Giant TSP CNC Max ported heads with LS7 exhaust ports and the biggest cam they had.
Made for 5000-7000rpms
Had the stock LS3 Manifold, because its good. MSD doesn't even make an LS3 manifold because there's no gains.
The tuner said the engine was suffocating because the big heads were trying to suck too much air through my LS3 intake.
He said to upgrade to Holley HighRam, But I didn't want to do that becuase they are aluminum and absorb heat, heatsoak, pulls timing, go slower.
So with those heads and cam and CUSTOM headers, cuz its a palatov and no one makes headers for that...it ran 165-168mph
Aside from head winds its very consistent on speed because its NA. So $8K to get 18mph.

Here's the real mad scientist part.
Researched for months and months for a bigger manifold. Found some...MAST and some others but most top mount Throttle bodies and dreaded aluminum.
Then FAST release their HIGHRISE composite manifold...front feed for LS engines. O I could do that.....famous last thought
Got a FAST HR, had NO idea if it would even fit.
Well it DID NOT. It was too high and too close to everything.
So I flipped around BACKWARDs. Then it barely fit. 1/2 inch from front radiator piping in front
But barely room in rear for throttle body and MAF....HAHA that had to go away which meant Speed Density tune....OMG what is that?
I spent a month buying extension harness and sensor adaptors and fittings and half was wrong but eventually I got it all together, BACKWARDS
NO air cleaner.....bought a Turbo Guard and put it over the throttle body with an HKS round air element.
So it all worked out after a lot of trial and error.
Now it runs 180-182mph and could now needs more fuel lol ....maybe E85 and bigger injectors.

With LS3 Manifold front facing under the radiator pipes, stock cats and mufflers
View attachment 275178


After FAST HR.....check out my turbo/HKS Air cleaner
And close I am to the front piping and rear frame member....LOL

View attachment 275180
View attachment 275179


So madness is OK
But can consume a lot of time and money on stuff that doesn't work
You just have to have the perseverance to get to the other side.

View attachment 275181
Drooling. In college I was member of our FSAE team... And def right is hard to beat years of production expierience and R&D from manufacturers. I want try but for sure these lifters are probably splitting hairs.

Love your setup! That probably hits like a freight train when you get on the gas? Iron or aluminum block?

GM did a killer awesome job on the 99% of these motors. The bottom end is stupid strong and they breath insanely well. The intakes are damn near perfect.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
 

iamdub

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WOW torqueing down all rocker arms made a considerable difference. My zero lash distance tightened up. I measured on 3 valves and compared to previous measurements. Then stopped...

I notice my Chinese knockoff adjustable pushrod is complete garbage. I've been setting it to a specific length, taping it together, and checking it in between measurements. Even then the stupid thing varies in length. The threads on it are loosey goosey.

Curious what adjustable pushrods are good? I like this design with a locking nut but clearance would be an issue with those and the pushrod guide on head and I'm not sure what would fit.

For now I'm going to put thread locker on this pushrod AND tape it and see if that helps.

I never even looked for any knock-offs. Didn't know they existed. The Comp one is only $22: https://www.amazon.com/Competition-Cams-Hi-Tech-Pushrod-Checker/dp/B00062YEPY
 
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