Maintenance: Transmission Flush

[HiHoeSilver]

4L60e with AC delco dexron 6.

Labor rates in WA are 115-130 an hr. Tax another 10% so I thought $4100 was reasonable on a unit direct from GM.

For that $, I think you could put a nice built one in. @Rocket Man has a nice one. Sucks that happened with only 66k on the clock.

 

[992dr]

Wowza, For $4k you could have a well built 60 or even better do an 80 swap and never worry again.

That's crazy it happened with 66k miles.

 

[SnowDrifter]

I'm quite curious to know what caused the trans to fail so early. Changing fluid on a high mileage transmission can reveal if your clutches are shot. But at 66k, I'm baffled.

 

[thompsoj22]

did the shop diagnose the issue? they can pretty much pinpoint the problem to line pressure/valve body/solenoid/bands and finally clutches. I also feel it is early to have a 3rd clutch pack fail. normally the od fails first. dont continue to drive it while slipping. did you use the correct trans filter? is it a deep or shallow pan? did the filter securely "cilck" in place. if the filter pickup tube is sucking air that is your problem. be wary of trans shops!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Shimmy23]

For that $, I think you could put a nice built one in. @Rocket Man has a nice one. Sucks that happened with only 66k on the clock.

Wowza, For $4k you could have a well built 60 or even better do an 80 swap and never worry again.

That's crazy it happened with 66k miles.

Yah, i honestly don't know much about beefing up a 4L60e. I dont really have a need for HD setup since this is a kid hauler for the wife. I did find some cheaper GM units, but the mechanic crossed checked the codes and said it was the incorrect variant.

I called a few places and all quoted between $4k-$5k for a GM replacement, with new transmission mounts, fluids. The difference in the estimates was shop labor/time. That ranged from an 8hr swap to 15hr swap. Seems like its the going rate for up here.

I'm quite curious to know what caused the trans to fail so early. Changing fluid on a high mileage transmission can reveal if your clutches are shot. But at 66k, I'm baffled.

did the shop diagnose the issue? they can pretty much pinpoint the problem to line pressure/valve body/solenoid/bands and finally clutches. I also feel it is early to have a 3rd clutch pack fail. normally the od fails first. dont continue to drive it while slipping. did you use the correct trans filter? is it a deep or shallow pan? did the filter securely "cilck" in place. if the filter pickup tube is sucking air that is your problem. be wary of trans shops!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I didn't change the filter. I only circulated new fluid thru. Is there still a chance of getting "air" in the system?

 

[SnowDrifter]

Lets just put the brakes on everything for a moment.

Op:

1. Why was the fluid changed in the first place

2. I want you to explain in excruciating detail what you did, and how you did it. Don't tell me you followed the video, tell me what /you/ did. Leave no detail out, even the smallest things like... You put an earplug in the trans cooler line so it wouldn't leak, or something like that

3. How are you checking fluid level

4. Have you been driving the vehicle while it's slipping?

5. Describe the condition of the old fluid

6. What new fluid did you use?

 

[kbuskill]

Is there still a chance of getting "air" in the system?

The transmission is not a sealed system like your brakes or A/C. The fluid is open to air via the dip stick tube.

 

[thompsoj22]

"only circulated new fluid through"??? did you drop the pan at all to get the initial 3 to 4 quarts out? or simply pull the return line at the radiator and run the pan dry and refill each time? I think you can recover from this, if the trans worked fine prior to your flush im guessing your in error in trans fluid level. Is there any noise at idle coming from the trans/converter/front pump? oop's im just rambling, Like the previous post requested. "EXPLAIN YOUR METHOD IN DETAIL" you dont need a new trans unless it has been doing this previously? when you check fluid level are there any air bubbles on the stick?

 

[Shimmy23]

Lets just put the brakes on everything for a moment.

Op:

1. Why was the fluid changed in the first place

2. I want you to explain in excruciating detail what you did, and how you did it. Don't tell me you followed the video, tell me what /you/ did. Leave no detail out, even the smallest things like... You put an earplug in the trans cooler line so it wouldn't leak, or something like that

3. How are you checking fluid level

4. Have you been driving the vehicle while it's slipping?

5. Describe the condition of the old fluid

6. What new fluid did you use?

Ok here’s my responses below

1: fluid was being changed because it was never changed prior to this.

2. I initially started to unscrew the coolant return line (upper radiator as shown in previous pic) and noticed antifreeze was coming out, not ATF. I immediately titghtened it back up and per the forum advice bought the correct fitting. A very minimal amount of antifreeze came out since I barely loosened it. I then used a quick disconnect tool to release the return line the proper way. I then connected a clear tube to that line and ran it down to a 5 gal bucket. On the return line I connected another clear hose and ran it down to the bucket as a vent.
From there I started the motor and watched the old ATF flow out and into the bucket. As it barely started to stop flowing, I added more ATF fluid in thru the dipstick and continued to circulate it thru until the ATF was near bright pink.

3. I’m checking fluid level at operating temps. Pull dipstick out and check. I also had two mechanics check fluid level and it was fine. I seriously felt like I was going crazy so I had them check.

4. Have not been driving since I noticed the slipping. When I drove it to the shop I kept it in “2”

5. Old ATF wasn’t in bad condition at all. Still pink just a little dirty. I honestly thought to myself (while it was flowing thru the clear tube) I don’t need to do this.

6. I put AC DELCO dexron 6.

 

[thompsoj22]

i am no expert at auto's but i have overhauled two A4ld's with good results. If you are certain that the fluid is at the correct level than i would try using the shift lever to start in first and lightly accellerate to 3k rpm than manually shift to second but back off the throttle as soon as it shifts and basically drop it into 2nd gear than use the same technique to go from 2nd to 3rd and drop it in the same way. The point is to have maximum circuit pressure at the shift point but no fwd torque on the 3rd clutch thus eliminating as much slippage as possible, and "jarring" the 3rd gear clutch and all asociated components/bands to lock 3rd up. Your staring down the barrell of a $4k rebuild, if your cautious ill bet you can get this "hickup" to fix itself. After repeated attempts if this dosent work, The 4L60E is a simple pan removal, drop it and inspect for sediment/debris. At 66k miles there will absolutely be silt adhered to the magnet but nothing chunky or gritty. it should feel like oiley dust between your fingers. unless the prior owner was running 6 bottles of trans medic in the drained fluid Ill bet your trans will resusitate itself. Hey you didnt mess with the harness that attaches to the trans in any way?