Looking for Advice for ABS Bleed with Scan Tool

[Jason in DLH]

So I’m a bit confused as this is the first time using a scan tool to cycle the ABS system. A few questions:

1. I read somewhere to do a complete bleed on all 4 wheels prior to performing ABS bleed. This true?

2. I did a complete bleed last night using a Capri Tools Vacuum bleeder. Do I need to basically do a whole round of bleeding on all 4 corners with the ABS cycling now? Or just perhaps on the right rear (furthest from master cylinder)?

3. How long should an ABS bleed take roughly?

I’d rather take the whole ABS system out or offline as I like to lock the tires and manually remove pressure from the pedal to regain steering ability. ABS stinks on snowy, hilly roads! My old Jeep had no ABS and manually using the brakes works way better! Anyway I can do this easily? Perhaps simply pull a fuse?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Doubeleive]

So I’m a bit confused as this is the first time using a scan tool to cycle the ABS system. A few questions:

1. I read somewhere to do a complete bleed on all 4 wheels prior to performing ABS bleed. This true?

2. I did a complete bleed last night using a Capri Tools Vacuum bleeder. Do I need to basically do a whole round of bleeding on all 4 corners with the ABS cycling now? Or just perhaps on the right rear (furthest from master cylinder)?

3. How long should an ABS bleed take roughly?

I’d rather take the whole ABS system out or offline as I like to lock the tires and manually remove pressure from the pedal to regain steering ability. ABS stinks on snowy, hilly roads! My old Jeep had no ABS and manually using the brakes works way better! Anyway I can do this easily? Perhaps simply pull a fuse?

Thanks in advance!

not sure on the bleed process, but yes for the abs you can simply pull the fuse, some take it a bit further and install a toggle switch on or under the dash so you can turn it on or off at will, can't get rid of the idiot light or dic warnings though.

 

[Jason in DLH]

I thought about it a little longer and I wonder what would happen if I put a resistor in after cutting the wire. I’m liking the idea of a toggle switch, but will probably just pull a fuse for now.

 

[Doubeleive]

I thought about it a little longer and I wonder what would happen if I put a resistor in after cutting the wire. I’m liking the idea of a toggle switch, but will probably just pull a fuse for now.

resistor probably would not do anything, the abs/suspension/transmission/engine are all tied together in one system on a high speed lan, it constantly monitors it's self
by pulling that fuse you wont have any cruise control, you might also be limited to 85mph (not sure, haven't personally experimented with pulling the abs fuse), the reason it might limit you is because sometimes if these trucks detect a problem it limits the speed to prevent damage or possible injury. the result may vary depending on the vehicle configuration.

you might also not have autostart, autostart is disabled when there is any cel, abs is not really a engine code but it could still be a side effect.

 

[Doubeleive]

@sumo or @iamdub might have more info on the abs bleed process

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Possibly @swathdiver as well, on the scanner usage in that application.

 

[1BADI5]

Only time I've bled the ABS module is if the customer car needed to have it replaced. Manufacture manual or Mitchell online at the shop will provide the vehicle specific procedure.

If the objective to the task at hand was just to flush the DOT3, then there should be no need to bleed the ABS module. AS you bleed the brakes out, fluid will still flow through the ABS module.

Bleed order - pass rear > driver rear > pass front > driver front

You'd only have to bleed the ABS module if you ran the master cylinder dry. I refill the MC after each wheel (if doing it manually). I normally use my Motive power bleeder.......spent more time jacking the truck up and removing the wheels then bleeding the brakes out; one man operation too

 

[Jason in DLH]

Great news then! I’m not going to bleed the ABS. I was only going to do it to flush old fluid out.

 

[Jason in DLH]

by pulling that fuse you wont have any cruise control, you might also be limited to 85mph

you might also not have autostart, autostart is disabled when there is any cel, abs is not really a engine code but it could still be a side effect.

I never use cruise anyhow and I don’t drive above 85 anymore, so no worries there.

My ABS light is on currently as a wheel speed sensor is loose and I still have auto start. So I’m thinking this won’t change if I pull the fuse, but will certainly check after I do.

 

[Jason in DLH]

Thanks all!

 

[Jason in DLH]

And regarding turning off the ABS...

 

[swathdiver]

So I’m a bit confused as this is the first time using a scan tool to cycle the ABS system. A few questions:

1. I read somewhere to do a complete bleed on all 4 wheels prior to performing ABS bleed. This true?

2. I did a complete bleed last night using a Capri Tools Vacuum bleeder. Do I need to basically do a whole round of bleeding on all 4 corners with the ABS cycling now? Or just perhaps on the right rear (furthest from master cylinder)?

3. How long should an ABS bleed take roughly?

I’d rather take the whole ABS system out or offline as I like to lock the tires and manually remove pressure from the pedal to regain steering ability. ABS stinks on snowy, hilly roads! My old Jeep had no ABS and manually using the brakes works way better! Anyway I can do this easily? Perhaps simply pull a fuse?

Thanks in advance!

In July I had a caliper go out so we replaced/rebuilt all four. I wanted all new fluid in there so we first manually bled the brakes until the fluid came out clean. Then did it again with the Tech-2 for the ABS pump and even more gunk came out at all four corners. Went through 6 quarts of brake fluid.

 

[Jason in DLH]

Good to know, thanks for the info!

I just put the wheels back on and lowered it to the floor, so perhaps I’ll go ahead and bleed the ABS next time I remove the wheels in a few weeks when I put hub rings on.

 

[iamdub]

I've never used a scan tool to bleed the ABS module. Of course, if I had one capable of activating the ABS solenoids, I'd use it. Any time I do a brake job, I flush the old fluid by pushing it all out the back left corner while chasing it with new fluid in the reservoir. Just the simple hose-in-a-bottle trick does it for me. When I'm pumping the pedal, I turn the key to the "on" position right as I'm starting to press the pedal. I pump a few times, turn the key off and repeat a few times. The ABS solenoids are activated during the self-check upon power-up. With the fluid under pressure from the pedal being pushed, any fluid in the ABS module is immediately moved downstream, so the solenoids don't have to be constantly held open. Just repeat the key on/off thing a few times. I continue this until I'm getting only fresh fluid at that furthest corner. I repeat it for the rest of the corners. This ensures all of the old fluid in the system has been replaced with new fluid.

 

[Jason in DLH]

Great technique about the key on/off! I never thought about doing it that way.

 

[67RS427]

For the record, I’ve been running my Yukon with no ABS fuse for a few years. When I replaced my calipers, I did not flush the ABS module. I can see that if you put the fuse back in for some reason that there might be some fluid in it that might mix and contaminate but I don’t plan to do that. I’ll be installing my 16” Wilwood brakes soon and might just remove the module entirely.

My remote start works as well as cruise control... only downside is the lights on the dash. It handles much better in the snow without ABS and stabilitrak. ABS has scared the crap out of me a few times in that truck so I just pulled it. Couldn’t be happier with how it runs...