Linda's 2002 TrailBlazer with 80k miles

[Marky Dissod]

Well, what is/was the major flaw?

Oil-starvation crank failures, head gasket failures, cracked heads, valve guide failures, water pump failures,
timing set failures with the timing chain at the back of the engine.
Think they got addressed in '06 but by then the TrailBlazer's optional 5.3L & 6.0L V8s (in TBSS') made the LL8 easy to upstage.

Ask the few LL8 enthusiasts who had them tuned to 370 horses or better (though not much more than 300ftlb) for more details.
The 3500, 3700, 2900 & 2800 were not capable of similar gains, being inherently more imbalanced than inline-6s.

EDIT: I WAS WRONG ABOUT THE TIMING CHAIN BEING BEHIND THE ENGINE.
Atlas timing chain is in front of all five Atlas engines.

 

[OR VietVet]

Just looked at a video on you tube, of timing chain replacement and the timing chain is at the front. Are you talking about a design change after a few years? If so, so say so.

 

[OR VietVet]

I can no longer say Linda's 2002 TrailBlazer has 79k miles on it. Today, after pulling in to Walgreen's parking lot and driving over to park, looked down and saw this.

 

[homesick]

View attachment 493664

I can no longer say Linda's 2002 TrailBlazer has 79k miles on it. Today, after pulling in to Walgreen's parking lot and driving over to park, looked down and saw this.

If that was Mama's odometer, she'd be out buying lottery tickets.

joe

 

[OR VietVet]

Recently I had been hearing a concerning noise, from the rear of the 2002 TrailBlazer, when going over speed bumps and quick fast turns. I backed it up the ramps and crawled under for a look see. It still looks pristine under there and after looking, shaking, prying, prodding, pushing and listening and took some pics. Did find a loose spare tire moving around in the cradle. Looked at the owner's manual and the only exact page that is missing out of the 24 year old manual, was the one to show how to drop and tighten the spare tire cradle/cable. I looked at you tube and great info. Tightened up the cable and road test and noise is gone. While under there, I was marveling at how clean and pristine the under carriage looks. It is 24+ years old and looks almost new under there.

 

[strutaeng]

@OR VietVet what is your take on marking u-joints against yokes to maintain the same mating sides? I was watching Eric O at SMA a while back and he said he doesn't do it, because the yokes and driveshafts are not balanced as an assembly (unless it's a 2 piece driveshaft, of course. those you have to keep aligned). Yet he said some YouTuber mechanics claim they have to go back in the same spot so they mark them.

Used to mark them (didn't know better 'cause I'm a hobbyst and learning as I go), until I saw that video from Eric and his explanation made perfect sense. And stopped doing that. I mean, it can't hurt either, just not necessary. Certainly not in areas were rust is not an issue...

That truck undercarriage looks amazing BTW...

 

[OR VietVet]

Eric O's reasoning makes sense BUT, I mark it all because it is a habit. If I don't, then I am remembering that I mark on some but not all. If I just do it, I don't worry about it. Plus, since I work on other people's vehicles, I would do it so that if for some reason, someone else is working on it and they tell my customer that I did something wrong by not marking. Some mechanics/shops will try to earn business by backstabbing another mechanic. The customer is not gonna know if is bull hockey or not.

I saw that episode by South Main Auto/Eric O., and immediately almost messaged what I just told you but he deals with enough crap as it is.

 

[homesick]

Eric O's reasoning makes sense BUT, I mark it all because it is a habit. If I don't, then I am remembering that I mark on some but not all. If I just do it, I don't worry about it. Plus, since I work on other people's vehicles, I would do it so that if for some reason, someone else is working on it and they tell my customer that I did something wrong by not marking. Some mechanics/shops will try to earn business by backstabbing another mechanic. The customer is not gonna know if is bull hockey or not.

I saw that episode by South Main Auto/Eric O., and immediately almost messaged what I just told you but he deals with enough crap as it is.

I'd call that a wise practice, cheap insurance with no downside.

joe

 

[West 1]

My Brother had a Trailblazer with the 6 cylinder he loved it. Put 270,000 miles on it before selling it off. Blew a Spark Plug out of a cylinder at around 225,000 miles but other than that it ran good. He even towed his ski boat with it and it towed really well, You just had to be willing to spin it 3500 to 4,000 RPM where it made really good power. I had an Olds Bravada for a while but for some reason it had the 4.3L V6 not the straight six 4.2L. I was not impressed with the Bravada, it was OK but I upgraded to a Tahoe and was much happier.

 

[OR VietVet]

I wanted Linda to have a smaller version of my 2005 Tahoe. The T/B fit the bill. Actually bought from a car lot and had the low mileage of around 65k to 70k. I did the well known leak point and replaced the water pump and did the thermostat/housing and new belt. I have done the list that is here in the first post of thread. Has been a very reliable vehicle and I can even be comfortable in it. Power is there when needed. Has some scratches but no dents. I do like the 2wd, AWD 4HI and 4LO selections. I backed up on the ramps today. I actually put in 4LO and in reverse at idle, the T/B just idled right up the ramps. I never touched the accelerator.

 

[OR VietVet]

Linda made a 250 miles round trip to the airport, in Portland, Or. today, in the 2002 TrailBlazer. One time on the way up and one time on the way back, there was a 3 count chime noise, like a door left open with key in the ignition. Engine never missed a beat and all gauges were rock solid and no CEL or any other odd lights and I checked for codes and found none, at all 3 levels.

There was a time, about 1.5 years ago that the driver's door lock actuator was hanging up a bit and I cleaned and lubed and have not had a problem. I could not force the chime again and she swears that all doors were closed securely. When she pulled in driveway, I had her not shut off and did check all doors and found no problems. Since is very intermittent, I am leaning toward the driver's door lock actuator. The part is discontinued at GM. The part is available at RA as a Standard part for close to $150.

I found a Genuine GM part at ebay for $175 and a NOS one at ebay for $75 and free shipping. I am waiting to hear back from the NOS seller about any available military discounts.

We had rodent problems in the p/s dash blower motor area about 6-8 months ago. Could be wires chewed and I will check both front doors for that.

Anyone ever run in to anything like this? Any ideas? Thanks in advance.