Limiting straps to prevent load on ball joints?

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Dustin Jackson

Dustin Jackson

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This is with a diff drop as well, and not the little puck one from rough country. I am using a larger diff drop I bought off eBay and the CV axles still bind up at full droop along with upper ball joints
 

Trey Hardy

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This is with a diff drop as well, and not the little puck one from rough country. I am using a larger diff drop I bought off eBay and the CV axles still bind up at full droop along with upper ball joints
I never had a issue on my Silverado when I added the arms later I swapped the bilsteins for the icon coil overs and cv axles has not given me any issues
However she’s got the 7.5” rc lift dropped down to 5.5-6” with the diff drop and cv spacers if that makes any difference.
My Tahoes got the front cv axles pulled out because I’m to cheap to get new ones beings I daily drive it 99% on the highway I have no need for them
 

Trey Hardy

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This is with a diff drop as well, and not the little puck one from rough country. I am using a larger diff drop I bought off eBay and the CV axles still bind up at full droop along with upper ball joints
Shoot just found a pic I did have it raised up to 8.5” when I had the 37s on still no cv binding C5D3D368-AD1E-45F4-9585-1EAD774374A4.jpeg313FC45A-F88C-44A0-AAB3-7FE8FF0FC1E1.jpeg
Here’s how she sits now
BDB18B74-9A06-495A-8AAA-0DEA95F926B0.jpeg1F3FACC2-17B3-4E4E-8E61-6E5F49DDBB78.jpegit’s Squatting because I got the bed loaded down with mulch up to the rails
 
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Dustin Jackson

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@Trey Hardy I believe it, but for some reason when I jack up my front end and try to spin my wheels they don’t want to move but when I lay the front control arms on jack stand I can turn the wheels again
 

Trey Hardy

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Ever throught to try the spacers? Or I know this sounds jerry rigged but some 1” pucks on top of the differential drop brackets?
I believe some cv axles off the newer trucks maybe the at4 I’m probably mistaken are longer shaft wise and might would work better with your suspension setup.
 
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Dustin Jackson

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@Trey Hardy I did the NorCal mod today and while in there I saw that my upper control arm comes in contact with the spring at full droop, so I have a few t problems going on here. The result of parting my own lift kit together
 

Trey Hardy

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@Trey Hardy I did the NorCal mod today and while in there I saw that my upper control arm comes in contact with the spring at full droop, so I have a few t problems going on here. The result of parting my own lift kit together
Ahhh I do remember that when I stretched out my lift with my old rc control arms they would hit the stock coil spring on the strut at full droop. More of a reason to justify to the wife of getting a set of fabtech arms!
?hash=74fa06adeda07a58551ba8c67cdd71ad.jpgYou can see how close they are to the coil over sadly I can’t find a pic of them with the stock struts installed 09F0E982-3E93-4B2D-8546-CC70EE2259A6.jpeghere’s the fabtech arms with the stock struts installed though and they cleared just fine!
 

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Dustin Jackson

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Yea I’m running the moog 81069 equivalent in the front which is moog 81244 and they are a bit thicker than the stock front spring hence why it is contacting the control arm.

After all this discovery I’m going back to thinking a limiting strap is the best option and just limit my front travel 0.25” shorter than it’s current full extension to avoid the suspension collision and it should be good.

The way I have it setup makes the Tahoe great for absorbing impact, I have no concerns going through dips or over bumps, the problem comes up when I drive over a crest and the front wheels become unweighted the suspension smacks against itself as it fully extends.

I really like my height and stance. About 3.5 inches lifted and 1.5 inch wheels spacers on factory wheels with 33 inch tires. But I understand this isn’t an ideal height, I would like to get the 4 inch rancho kit that tozan has but it’s been discontinued and I doubt any retailers have it.
 

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