Lets Get This Party Started

[Doubeleive]

if you want to do the factory way like the police pursuit vehicles are set up it will give you twice the cca's and twice the amp hours
the positive cable listed below goes under the front of the engine and attaches to the starter, (there is a factory connector on the cable for the starter/battery and existing harness) then you just run a ground to the frame or alternator bracket or both.
25825642 positive battery cable
15888242 negative battery cable (it's cheaper to just make your own)
14005061 battery hold down clamp (may or may not come with the screw)
11509853 -screw if not included with above clamp
it looks like from your photo's that you have the battery support present in the front drivers area where it used to be located on the nbs
***you will want to be sure that you have matching battery's (both the same brand/model) to prevent any potential problems

 

[intheburbs]

I added dual batteries to both of my trucks. The way I did it is identical to how a factory-equipped TP2 truck would roll off the line. OEM cables and battery isolator tied to the ignition. Not counting the cost of the second battery, it was about $350 in parts to do one truck. The Suburban looks less factory because I used the stupid blue conduit, but the Denali looks perfect.

My reasons for doing this on both trucks? Daughter has the Denali at college in upstate New York. I don't want her ever having to even worry about a dead battery, much less experience one in the dead of winter. And we do some boondocking with the Suburban, so the dual batteries and isolator ensure that I have some extra battery power, but still have power to start, even if I'm 100 miles from any civilzation.

Here's the thread I used as my guide, on another forum, and I added some things that weren't quite clear to me on the original post. CLICK HERE

Pics of the engine bays...

Denali:

Suburban 2500:

 

[mikeyss]

I also have dual batteries in both of my Tahoe's, and I have them wired in parallel like the diesels. The only reason I didn't use the factory setups is because IMO the factory battery cables are too thin for my liking. I know I'm probably just OCD and the gauge of wire being used is fine, but I went a little thicker with my setup. I am going to get an isolater for my setup soon, just added security.

 

[Tyrone Harward]

Thanks for the feed back feed back. I bought all the parts I needed for the project and will be starting it this weekend. What batteries did you guys use? I deffinetly want a AGM but what brand did you buy or does it matter. Did any of you install volt meter as well? Thanks for the help

 

[PG01]

I added dual batteries to both of my trucks. The way I did it is identical to how a factory-equipped TP2 truck would roll off the line. OEM cables and battery isolator tied to the ignition. Not counting the cost of the second battery, it was about $350 in parts to do one truck. The Suburban looks less factory because I used the stupid blue conduit, but the Denali looks perfect.

My reasons for doing this on both trucks? Daughter has the Denali at college in upstate New York. I don't want her ever having to even worry about a dead battery, much less experience one in the dead of winter. And we do some boondocking with the Suburban, so the dual batteries and isolator ensure that I have some extra battery power, but still have power to start, even if I'm 100 miles from any civilzation.

Here's the thread I used as my guide, on another forum, and I added some things that weren't quite clear to me on the original post. CLICK HERE

Pics of the engine bays...

Denali:

Suburban 2500:

I did mine because yours was the first post i found on it, only i did parallel for more power to my plow....

Tyrone, agm batteries.... meh... i would just buy two of the highest cca’s you can for the truck, I forget the group name now... 56, 96... but that’s your call. I have 2 800, 880 cca’s diehard golds and depening on which way you are wiring the factory volt gsuge keeps a pretty good eye on things in the parallel set up. Also, for trailer use, if trailer needs power and has a battery, you need to hook up the coiled red wires, one under the master cylinder/brake booster and one next the fuse box/ drivers fender... does your truck have the factory integrated trailer controller? If not you need both hooked up, if so only one.

 

[intheburbs]

Thanks for the feed back feed back. I bought all the parts I needed for the project and will be starting it this weekend. What batteries did you guys use? I deffinetly want a AGM but what brand did you buy or does it matter. Did any of you install volt meter as well? Thanks for the help

I used Diehard Gold Advanced, which are AGM batteries. For whatever reason, you can't get the Diehard platinum in our group size.

And, sorry if I sound like a db, but the batteries MUST be wired in parallel, because our trucks run on a 12-volt system, not 24.

 

[kbuskill]

I used Diehard Gold Advanced, which are AGM batteries. For whatever reason, you can't get the Diehard platinum in our group size.

And, sorry if I sound like a db, but the batteries MUST be wired in parallel, because our trucks run on a 12-volt system, not 24.

Lots of guys misuse terminology... you are correct though... both setups are parallel, the difference is whether they are isolated or not.

I prefer the isolated setup but many on here seem to be running without an isolator without any issues.

 

[PG01]

Lots of guys misuse terminology... you are correct though... both setups are parallel, the difference is whether they are isolated or not.

I prefer the isolated setup but many on here seem to be running without an isolator without any issues.

Guess that was directed towards me, meh whateve..

 

[kbuskill]

Guess that was directed towards me, meh whateve..

Not particularly, but if the shoe fits... lol

 

[PG01]

Not particularly, but if the shoe fits... lol

Not from you ken.....